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Old 12-31-2013, 09:22 AM   #1
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Eagle Question

We recently traded to a 2014 338RLTS and I have a question about all three slide outs. The system is different than our old trailer so I am not sure if this is correct or not.

Sorry I do not now which system it is but each system has a rail with a gear running on it and when the slideouts are fully extended or retracted the motor continues to run and there is a gear to gear stripping sound, so you have to be very aware and quick on the switch.

The large slideout in the living area will skip gears 2 or 3 times when you put it in or out.

The dealer wasn't sure this was normal or not but said not to worry as it would be covered under warranty.

Is this normal or A.B. Normal?
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:50 AM   #2
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I have a different slideout than you have, so I cannot say absolutely. In our HTT slide out it is normal, I was told there is a clutch in the gearbox. I try to only let it pop a few times as it sounds bad. In two years we have not had any issues.

It is funny that the dealer did not know if it was normal or not. They should do enough PDIs to know. If they were not sure they could walk out onto the lot and try a few.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:11 AM   #3
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DKRITTER,

I asked a similar question on the ultralight board:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...the-way-out-in

Are you getting the popping sound as you are moving or only at the end of travel? If there truly is a clutch, then maybe yours is slipping while the slide is moving and not just at the end of travel. Might be a sign of something not moving freely causing too much resistance for the clutch. Maybe a question for the dealer armed with all the tips you get from the slideology experts here on the forum. I'm a newbie too so definately not an expert.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:04 PM   #4
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The popping will happen mainly with the large slide, it has the couch fridge and stove.

If it's a clutch I would assume this is normal, but if it is gear on gear I am concerned.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:32 PM   #5
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Let me add that these slides do not have the silver pieces top and bottom of the slides.

This has a piece of square tubing underneath the slide with teeth attached to it.

Not near the trailer our I'd post a picture, sorry.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:16 PM   #6
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The main slide style you are describing is very common, and the "ratcheting" noise you hear when the slide is fully extended/retracted is the internal clutch (within motor assembly) reacting to the added torque (load). As soon as you hear the noise begin release the switch immediately. The internal clutch mechanism consists of springs and they can weaken over time if the clutch is allowed to "ratchet" for longer periods then necessary.

On the same subject, this would be a good time to check that the slide product manuals in your TT have instructions to manually override the slide(s) in the event they loose power. It sounds like you have two different slide styles manufactured by Lippert, so confirm you have manuals for both styles (they operate differently). If you are missing the manuals, contact Jayco or the slide OEM.

Bob
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:07 PM   #7
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Like others have said don't worry about the 'ratcheting" sound. Just release the switch when you hear it. We had our Jayco Eagle all over the country for 7 years and it always made that sound at the end of travel. Now that we have a Keystone Cougar HC trailer they use the "ACCU SLIDE" unit with S.S. cables- all you hear is the motor running.
Happy trails,
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:21 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone, the "ratcheting noise" is new to us and quite honestly a little unsettling when you hear this grinding noise for the first time, but it is good to know this grinding sound is normal.

Getting the timing down honestly shouldn't be the issue should it?
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:21 AM   #9
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There shouldn't be a "grinding" sound only a clicking of the clutch in the motor when it hits full extension or retraction.... Perhaps your using the words interchangeably but "grinding" sounds are NOT normal.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:14 AM   #10
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Our Eagle's slides also do this and it's always made me nervous. DW extends them while I stand outside watching for clearance, etc. Finally got her to get her paw off the switch as the first or second click hit her earball. And could they have made it any more difficult to move them manually?
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:39 AM   #11
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Happy New Year everyone!!


clicking ratcheting grinding

verbs nouns adverbs adjectives


Anyway it is described it is not a good sound to hear and somebody has to be a quick draw champion to operate it.

Jayco could and should look at this, if they decide to keep the slide system may I suggest limit switches.


This is not an electric screwdriver.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:49 AM   #12
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Soon as mine starts clicking I just release the switch, easy peasey. Been doing that for four years now without issue. I did have a hard time figuring out where the manual override is as there was no mention of it in the manuals. After locating it I tried it out and it takes a whole lot of cranks on the ratchet wrench to move it in or out.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
And could they have made it any more difficult to move them manually?
cekkk, I have the same trailer as you. I was curious as to how to operate the slides manually. I have located the slide motors under the camper behind the "doors" in the underbelly. Is that where the manual operation takes place? The camper is in storage now and I was hoping you could save me a trip over there to get the manual. On my previous Flagstaff, there was a hole in the side of the camper to stick a rod into to move the slide manually. Sorry to get off topic here. Terry
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:55 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by TCNASHVILLE View Post
snip........I was curious as to how to operate the slides manually. I have located the slide motors under the camper behind the "doors" in the underbelly. Is that where the manual operation takes place?.......snip
Yes...., with the frame mounted motor style slides.

The following pics are of my '05' Eagle 278FBS:



Attached a socket/wrench to the hex shaft sticking out from the motor/clutch housing to manually operate the slide. As Crabman stated it's a slow process..., and make sure you are turning the hex shaft in the right direction to avoid binding the motor/clutch.



Hope this helps.

Bob
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:03 PM   #15
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Sorry again off topic.....Does that hex shaft just happen to be the same size as the sissor jack nut? If so could you use the cordless drill to operate or does it take more torque than a cordless can deliver?
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:56 PM   #16
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TCNashville, I admit I didn't look in the manual. Mine is pretty Jayco generic and I don't find it all that useful. I'd guess that it may not even be in the manual but in another document put out by the slide manufacturer. But I don't know.

Thanks for the pics, Rusticeagle. I asked early on how to close them manually. Hopefully I'll never have the problem, but if it comes to that I've been told it take a bit of time to open the access panel and a bunch more to screw it back in. Is that right? Also, if a drill would do it, would it have to be a right-angle tool? We may be off topic but this is very helpful to me and I'd guess many others.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by t2daniel View Post
Sorry again off topic.....Does that hex shaft just happen to be the same size as the sissor jack nut? If so could you use the cordless drill to operate or does it take more torque than a cordless can deliver?
I can't recall if the hex shaft is the same size as a wheel lug nut...., but if I had t guess I would say it's smaller.

All the Lippert documents that I recall viewing they didn't reference the use of a power tool for manual slide operation. My concern with a power tool would be turning in the wrong direction and binding/damaging the motor/clutch before you could shut it down. Also, the power drill rotation speed could be an issue. Just my own thoughts.

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Old 01-01-2014, 10:43 PM   #18
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snip....... I've been told it take a bit of time to open the access panel and a bunch more to screw it back in. Is that right?....snip
Depends on the location of the access panel. The only reason I removed my panel (I didn't have to cut my way in) was to insure it was the right panel, it was, and it was an easy task. Also wanted to check how easy it would be to get to the motor. Putting the panel back on was easy.

If anyone has the ability to perform a manual slide operation should it be required.., during a lazy moment I would recommend removing the panel for a "look-see".

Bob
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:59 AM   #19
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I have 2 access panels [fore & aft], one for each slide. I think it was about 8 screws each and it was an easy removal. On mine, it seemed like they overlaid a slightly larger piece of underbelly to use as the "door". I don't have the wood frame as Bob does. My slide motors look just like Bob's as well and as I recall, there wasn't enough room to get a drill in there.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:15 AM   #20
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snip...... I don't have the wood frame as Bob does.....snip
The wood frame incorporated by Jayco ....., kinda nice insuring that the screws will draw in tight....., a lot better then just the thin underbelly material.

Bob
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