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Old 09-21-2015, 03:18 PM   #1
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Electric Jack issue

I recently bought a used 2014 Jayco Jayflight Swift 267 BHS this summer and when we bought the unit were told from the private seller the jack was in working order but when we came to pick up the unit it was not, so anytime we've taken out the TT we have to use the manual crank. The light switch works but the switch for the motor does nothing, whether it's battery powered or connected to my pickup.

I'm wondering if maybe I have a bad switch? The trailer was hardly used, only taken out twice prior to us purchasing but I read this is a common issue with electric jacks failing. I've read others saying to swap out the fuse but if the fuse wasn't working wouldn't the light switch not be operable as well?

Any ideas?
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:02 PM   #2
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Don't have any help but the Jayco comes with a 2 year warranty, you might contact a dealer if there is one near you
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:06 PM   #3
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Warranty ran out in June before we purchased the unit.
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:25 PM   #4
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If the light works, then the fuse is OK and the unit has power. The switch could be the culprit, but without a schematic and a test lamp or Multi-meter, you can't really tell. You could try taking the case off and jumpering the switch. But you might want to have your dealer or an electrician take a look at it. You could check online for a schematic, if you don't have one in the documentation for the jack.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npdeleon View Post
Warranty ran out in June before we purchased the unit.
Warranty does not transfer anyway...
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:53 AM   #6
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If the light works, then the fuse is OK and the unit has power. The switch could be the culprit, but without a schematic and a test lamp or Multi-meter, you can't really tell. You could try taking the case off and jumpering the switch. But you might want to have your dealer or an electrician take a look at it. You could check online for a schematic, if you don't have one in the documentation for the jack.
X2.

Tear it apart. You can't make it any worse.

If you can fix it, GREAT!

If you can't, it had to be replaced anyway.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:23 AM   #7
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X2.

Tear it apart. You can't make it any worse.

If you can fix it, GREAT!

If you can't, it had to be replaced anyway.
+1

The guts are VERY simple. A schematic would not be necessary IMO. It's a couple switches, some wire and a motor. If the switch is loose or bad, easy fix. If it's not the switch, IMO, you're not going to be able to fix anything else on that jack yourself (unless you are into electrical motor repair).

Also note, this part of this discussion is happening on another thread as well:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f4...lem-30400.html
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:26 AM   #8
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Should be 3 wires to the switch, center, up and down, as its a rocker switch. Pull the wires out if possible and label so you know where they went and touch either up or down to the center one and see if it goes moves. If it works, bad switch, if not, then you have other problem.
As others said, if light works, then fuse is good.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:55 AM   #9
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Should be 3 wires to the switch, center, up and down, as its a rocker switch. Pull the wires out if possible and label so you know where they went and touch either up or down to the center one and see if it goes moves. If it works, bad switch, if not, then you have other problem.
As others said, if light works, then fuse is good.
Actually, there are 4 wires to the switch:
1) + From the Battery
2) - From the Battery

3&4) two wires to the permanent magnet motor. Direction of rotation is controlled by the polarity of the power.

You'll notice that the motor is connected to the common (center tabs) of the switch.

The power comes in on one side of the switch and crisscrosses to the opposite sides on the other end of the switch. That provides the polarity reversal and gives you the UP/Down operation.

Most probably, if the switch "feels good" but provides no action at the motor, you've got a broken wire or bad motor.

Test for 12VDC on the leads coming from the battery. While still connected, push the switch, if the voltage drops, the motor is bad; replace the jack.

Otherwise use the voltmeter to check the operation of the switch.

Also, use a set of jumpers to power the motor DIRECTLY from the battery.

Then replace the jack.

(Aren't I just such an optimist? )
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:45 PM   #10
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Thanks Mike!
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:52 PM   #11
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Thanks Mike!
You're welcome.

Car power widows (1960's to 1990's) are set up this way.

Also, the power awnings and the slide outs are just as 'complicated'.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:49 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the insight and response on this. Replaced the switch yesterday, jack is now in working order.
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Old 09-28-2015, 03:38 PM   #13
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Glad to hear it! It's nice when the easy fix is the solution.
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