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Old 08-13-2016, 11:38 PM   #31
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X2 on the thread lock. As well as making it hard to remove you need the good metal to metal contact that the threads provide as part of your contact surface.
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:45 PM   #32
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Having some issues with obtaining the neutral bus bar from jayco. Only sell entire panel. Does anyone see a problem with me cutting down a bar from a electrical panel from a house panel and using it? It seems to me it should work the same.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:19 PM   #33
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One other thing occurs to me . The technician said that the set screws were steel and the aluminum bus bar is aluminum. Because of the difference in cooling rates of the aluminum and steel it will cause the screws to back of very minimaly over years. Should I re-torque to correct setting as an annual maintaince and would some medium strength lock tight solve this problem.
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If this was the real problem then wouldn't every RV in the country be having the same problem. I think the "technician" might be trying to blow a little smoke too.


There's something funny going on here. I don't even know what "shorted neutral" means. I think you need to have a good electrician take a look at the entire system. Not an RV tech but a licensed electrician.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:21 PM   #34
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Having some issues with obtaining the neutral bus bar from jayco. Only sell entire panel. Does anyone see a problem with me cutting down a bar from a electrical panel from a house panel and using it? It seems to me it should work the same.
No problem with cutting down a bar. However, you can go to Lowes or Home Depot and find a pretty good selection of buss bars.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:48 PM   #35
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You can also find every size imaginable on Amazon.


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Old 08-21-2016, 10:39 AM   #36
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Repair done. Replaced neutral bus bar and cut back damaged shoreline power ( neutral) until good wire. This shoreline neutral is multiple conductor strand wire. It would appear it was over tightend and crimped. My question is this is a 30 AMP shoreline cord. Should the gauge not be #10 AWG. When I striped back the insulation jacket it was #14 AWG that I used on my wire strippers. This to me would lend itself to overheating at peak draw (a/c , H2O tank etc) . Any ideas?
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:30 AM   #37
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30 Amp shore line power to the power panel should be #10 inside or out. To the converter might be #14
That you used #14 on your wire stripper means nothing. Any cable has on its insulation the wire conductor information.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:48 PM   #38
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Actually, if you squeeze hard enough, you can strip a #6 stranded wire with the #14 jaws on a wire stripper. Wire size is printed on the outer jacket of the cord. I forget how often but about every 2 feet or so. Either printed or embossed in the outer jacket. Should be something like 10/3 SJ or something similar.

If, in fact, someone has replace your #10 (30 amp) shore cord with #14 (15 amp) cord then you will have a definite voltage drop issue resulting in heating. Shore cords have to be stranded or they would not have the necessary flex required for connecting to the power pedestal.


Also, if your cord is #10 and you stripped the wire with the #14 jaws you have effectively reduced the capacity of the wire form 30 amps to 15 amps by removing not only the insulation but a good portion of the conductive wire strands. You should redo the connections using the proper tools and techniques.
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