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Old 01-10-2014, 11:04 PM   #1
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End of Season Water Draining

I did not get a dealer provided "school housing" on draining the water from this trailer. Also....this is my 10th RV so not my 1st goat roping in draining and winterizing RV's.
It has a low point indicated on the outside (curb side)of the rig under the kitchen sink area. There are two pipes sticking out of the bottom but they have no valves on them. I can not find or see any valves for them inside the RV under the sink, only a "T" on each line to provide the pipe down out the floor.
There is no drain on the 20 gal. hot water heater. I tried to drain it through the outside shower valve and putting air into the system. That did not work totally. I need some direction on this system.

The water tank and pump is easy to drain and that system is self explanatory and similar to others I have had. It would be much easier if there was an access door on the outside to the pump/valves etc. area. I may add that.

Any help or direction would be appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:13 PM   #2
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The low point drains should have a white cap on them, just remove the caps.

Your water heater either has a plug if it's all aluminum or an anode rod. Remove the plug or anode to drain. It should be just below the pressure relief valve.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:54 PM   #3
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The low point tubes have no caps or valves on them??????
The htr. has no drain plug or anode rod anywhere on it. That is the problem. Only the in/out water fittings and the pop off valve.

My plan is to put a "T" with valve on the lowest water fitting with a hose connection for draining it unless someone has a better idea

Thx. for your response..
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:15 AM   #4
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Jack, this is my best guess without pictures. One of those tubes drains your water lines, and the other your water heater. Somewhere there are valves on those lines for draining. You will have to follow the tubes back through your trailer until you find the valves. Usually, the valves are close to each other.

I'm stumped on the water heater drain. I don't think anyone would market a water tank without a plug type drain.

If you call or email Jayco (have your VIN ready) they will have the answers.

I wouldn't modify anything until you contact Jayco.

Edit: It's not unusual for the drain valves to be in a storage compartment.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:52 AM   #5
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It sounds like a few photos maybe required. I have not seen a 20 gallon water heater in a Jayco. Can you post a few photos and can you post a couple of photos of the low point valves, both from the inside the TT and outside. That may help a lot.

My guess is because this is a 40 footer, probably a park model with a 20 gallon tank it must be a small round heater, similar to what is in your house, just a lot shorter. If so, there is usually a round knob at the bottom that a garden house can connect to. Typically what I have seen they are located directly below the pressure relief valve. This is only a guess.

As for the low point drains, Jayco does not use traditional valves, the Tee’s have a small Tee shaped handle on top of them. All you have to do is pull them straight up. It is more of a plug than a valve.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:37 AM   #6
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The hot water heater is a domestic (not RV) RHEEM 20 gal, 120V electric only, no gas. It does NOT have any drain or anode on it. The only piping it has is the two water (in & out) and the pressure pop off valve. No other openings on it.

Upon further review and using my wife's make up mirror on a stick I finally saw the two pull up valves on the drain lines through the floor. They are behind the stack of drawers under the sink and totally inaccessible. Maybe some judicious use of a sawsall to be able to get my hand back there is in order. Not too proud of that design. I can not get my hand/arm back there to even touch them let alone pull them up. Another possibility is installing an access door on the outside wall in that area. I have over 3 months to think about this so no hurry.

Thx for your suggestions.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:22 PM   #7
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If your draws are like mine, being a park model it may not be. But they should be removable. I have two little plastic clips I think at the front edge of the slides attached to the drawer, just flip them up and the drawer will pop right out of its track.

As for the water heater, you may need a little compressed air to push the water out of the tank. Personally call Jayco with your vin number and ask. The other option is to get the make and model number of the water heater and do a Youtube search. I have had very good luck finding solutions and repair methods of of exact make and model of household items I have.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:39 AM   #8
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A friend of mine has one of these models and is a member of this forum. When he wakes up, I'll see if he can help.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cekkk View Post
A friend of mine has one of these models and is a member of this forum. When he wakes up, I'll see if he can help.
Ok Jack in Alaska, I have a 2011 Bungalow. I have the same water heater. to drain the water heater on mine you have to pull the bottom drawer out and set it on the floor,[the drawer is right next to the cooking stove on the left side] then you have to reach way back by the pipes and there will be two [2] pull up valves and then you have to open the pressure relief valve on the top of the water heater and the water will drain, will take awhile but it will drain.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:03 AM   #10
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No need to wake from your nap Parcany.......but thanks for the reply. I have finally discovered the two pull up valves but neither one of my arms is near long enough or has enough joints for me to pull them up. I will get them eventually. A sitting session with my friend Larry and a few "brewskys" will solve the problem.
Thx. again. Breaking the vacuum on the HW htr. should allow it to drain out of those valves as you said. I think I will put a small access door on the outside wall to be able to get to the valves. My 74 yr. old body will not get into those places easily and besides I am too big.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:24 AM   #11
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Jack, you will find something that will work for you. Also, IMO that's the kind of thing Jayco needs to hear as customer feedback.

The person who checked-off on the design probably wore a 40" sleeve, and was as agile as a snake. We have all had to work around design issues.

Edit: It might be easier (in the end) to relocate the valves than create access from the outside. Or, you mentioned earlier, modifying something inside so you can reach them.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:17 PM   #12
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Solved my drain problem today. I purchased the small access door to install in the outside wall to be able to access the drain valves..
But...........today my Ontario friend Ivan had a brain fart. He said why don't I put valves on the drain tubes under the RV and then find a little skinny guy to go into the cabinets and open the inside drain valves permanently. That is what we did and it is solved.
Any one need a new 5"x5" access door.???
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:25 AM   #13
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Jack, glad you got your problem solved. But, keep this in mind: Your inside valves are kept at near room temperature. The valves you added under the RV might be subject to freezing.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:46 PM   #14
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OnTheGo......

Thanks for the comment. it was a good one and i will keep it in mind. May install the small door after all. Now I have options.

Jack
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