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Old 05-07-2017, 07:11 AM   #1
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Ever repainted your RV?

We own a 2008 Jayfeather TT with a soft gold skirt and back bumper. I noticed the clear coat has cracked and peeled off in a fairly large area above the license plate and the paint underneath has been affected. Would rather repaint this bumper myself instead of hauling it 45 miles to nearest RV center. Anyone ever done this successfully? If so, what kind of paint and clear coat did you use? spray paint? roll on? tips??? Thanks!
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:22 AM   #2
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I've painted bumpers and underframe.
I use Rust Stop primer than black Rustoleum 2X on bumpers and exposed frame.
The underframe I use Rust Stop and them Truck Bed Liner.
If rust re-devlops under bed liner, it will pop off and you see an area that needs to be retreated.
I've never had to deal with Clear Coat.
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:50 AM   #3
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Someone on this board once posted that he got a quote of $14,000 to paint the whole RV. $4000 to put a vinyl cover over the whole thing
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:21 PM   #4
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My ex and I painted a 26' travel trailer we rebuilt back in '71. It had aluminum siding and we used a paint designed for aluminum from Monkey Ward (Montgomery Ward for you youngsters too young to remember them). We mostly used rollers to avoid brush marks as much as possible and it actually looked pretty good.


The only problem we ran into was the paint claimed to have one coat coverage right on the can. When the paint failed to cover in one coat (there was some bleeding), we went back to Monkey Ward and were told that the can had to say Guaranteed One Coat Coverage for them to replace it under warranty. We ordered more of the same and the paint we received actually said Guaranteed Once Coat Coverage on the can. We never bought another thing from Monkey Ward after that.
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:58 PM   #5
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I failed to say this is a fiberglass skirt not metal
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:38 PM   #6
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I've painted quite a few over the years. Last one was a 2004 class A with full body paint. Basically Base coat, Clear coat. The 2004 and earlier units I've done had the paint codes usually on a decal in the closets or some where. I've even painted over faded decals that weren't checkered also the same way.. All came out as good as factory quality. After getting estimates a few times from RV collision center I pulled out my retired spray equipment a few times. If you've never painted professionally before though (and don't know the tricks), you might want to find someone who does it on the side though. I'm not that familiar with the later models units and wouldn't be surprised if they are using environmentally friendly paint currently. I know they are using water based paint in some of the collision shops now. If your just spraying a steel bumper I'd just use a spray can.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:25 AM   #7
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Thank you, but this is fiberglass and not a proper bumper...lower edge, part of skirt (?) but is where license plate is and tail lights.

The clear coat crackedvoff and allowed paint to oxidize in an area about 8" oval...considering rattle can clear coat. If that doesn't work, I found paint match in Rustoleum. Will repaint whole bumper if I must. Thinking anything would be better than it is.

Wondered if any of y'all ever tried this
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:05 AM   #8
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If your doing piece work I would find a break line where you can tape off and paint a section as a whole. Like stripping, trim, compartment frames etc. Sometimes it a pretty large area, other times you can do it in small section, it depends how you can tape of a certain area. To just blend in a 8" oval area to your liking is something else. You definitely can just paint that area alone but if you'll be satisfied that is the question.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:15 AM   #9
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Repainting anything, metal, fiberglass, etc., is only as good as the prep work. As said above, find a break line for the color you are repainting. Don't rush any of this. Take your time, relax, and think through each step before you do it.

Sand the affected area with 120 grit paper to remove the flaking clear coat. Go at least 3 inches beyond the affected area. Spray primer over the entire area.

Follow it up with 220 grit. If you are planning on painting the entire bumper then sand the entire bumper with 220. Reprime the affected area, follow up with resanding the area with 220. Wet sand the entire bumper with 600 grit wet paper.

Now you can paint it. Tape it off. Use only 3M masking tape. I'm normally not brand conscious but I've been painting cars as a hobby for over 35 years, and I learned a long time ago cheap masking is just that. Cheap garbage. Spray cans will be OK, put them in a warm pan of water (not hot!) for 5 minutes before spraying. This helps the paint expand and spray more evenly.

Do some test sprays on something to get the feel of your spray pattern. Spray all the way across once, then go back the other direction, but overlap the coat by 1/3. If you stop in the middle you will most certainly end up with over spray debris, which can be polished out later, but it's easier if you don't have to. Keep the can no farther than 3 or 4 inches from the surface. Much farther and the edges of the spray pattern will dry as it hits the surface, which will result in over spray patterns.

Hope that helps.
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