First time out

finally03gt · 09-21-2015, 07:52 PM

First trip out last weekend to a near by RV Park. It was about 15 miles of highway and about 5 miles of narrow, hilly, curvy road. Setup pull GREAT. I'm highly impressed. Dab of grease on the WD bars quieted the popping a good bit, thanks for that tip, and I'm still backing the brake controller down, pretty sure I started too high. CIPA universal mirrors let me see all I needed to.

Got to the park and had no trouble getting into a fairly tight space. I think, for once, the short wheel base on my TV was a benefit. I stopped toward the front of the space to keep the door and awning clear of a tree and porch, and barely had enough cord, and my water hose came up about 2' short. The lynx levelers worked great. From the time I put it in park, till the time I was all set up (except the trip a mile up the road for another hose) was only about 30 min, while eating a sandwich.

All in all, I'd call it a success. Thank you folks for all the input. The preparation that I got from this board saved me a couple of headaches.

finally03gt · 09-22-2015, 06:07 AM

Just recalled one oddity, someone may have information on...

When running the microwave, we tripped the 30 amp main breaker in the control box under the fridge. The fridge and a/c where both running, so it was loaded up, but I was under the impression that the 30 amp service could power the TT as built.
Once home and set up, it did it again. I have it plugged into a 30 amp 120v plug that I put in specifically for the TT, and the 30 amp in my house didn't trip. Is it possible that the breaker is a bit on the weak side (I've seen that before), or am I mis-understading the TT abilities?

Iraqvet05 · 09-22-2015, 06:51 AM

I've never tripped the interior panel breaker. During the summer when we are drawing lots of amps with the A/C, hot water heater (on electric) and we use the microwave, usually the pedestal breaker will trip. You could have a weak breaker but someone else may chime in that has more electrical knowledge that I have. If those breakers are like house breakers, you can try swapping it with another...assuming there is another the same size in the panel.

**norty1** · 09-22-2015, 06:55 AM

The converter on any rig is a constant load on the service. It has to be factored in to any amp draw calculation.

mike837go · 09-22-2015, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finally03gt

Just recalled one oddity, someone may have information on...

When running the microwave, we tripped the 30 amp main breaker in the control box under the fridge. The fridge and a/c where both running, so it was loaded up, but I was under the impression that the 30 amp service could power the TT as built.
Once home and set up, it did it again. I have it plugged into a 30 amp 120v plug that I put in specifically for the TT, and the 30 amp in my house didn't trip. Is it possible that the breaker is a bit on the weak side (I've seen that before), or am I mis-understading the TT abilities?

If you are routinely popping your main breaker, it could be sensitive. Or it's just staying too warm inside the electric panel. Is the fan running from time-to-time?

finally03gt · 09-22-2015, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

If you are routinely popping your main breaker, it could be sensitive. Or it's just staying too warm inside the electric panel. Is the fan running from time-to-time?

The fan on the electrical enclosure?

Not sure, but the TT itself is about 75.

From the feed back so far, the 30 amp main in the TT should be able to run the TT as built?

mike837go · 09-22-2015, 07:49 AM

The fan is INSIDE the electrical enclosure.

It is not particularly loud. You probably won't hear it over the A/C, TV, kids or Heater...

On my TT, the electric panel's fan runs whenever the battery charger goes into bulk charge.

"From the feed back so far, the 30 amp main in the TT should be able to run the TT as built?"

Yes, it should. Sorta, within reason...

With the A/C on and the microwave warming up lunch with the Fridge and water heater using shore power; You've maxed the system out and the weakest link (circuit breaker, by design) fails. You could have a defective 30A breaker that is tripping at 28A.

I would try the following; When camping, set the fridge and the water heater to Gas Only mode whenever you need to run the A/C. That'll move about 8A to 10A off of shore power and put it on your propane tank.

You should still think about replacing the main breaker since it is popping and the pedestal or home breaker's don't.

finally03gt · 09-22-2015, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

You could have a defective 30A breaker that is tripping at 28A.

Thanks guys. I work with alot of DC and AC circuits and breakers at work, and I was kinda thinking the same thing. I just wasn't sure if the circuit was designed to handle all at once or if, in the words of Jeff Foxworthy, "This thing (power meter) is spinning like a top. Somebody turn Something off" Its brand spankin new, so I'll add it to the list of things to check when I take it in for the first round of repairs.

Gone campin · 09-25-2015, 10:32 AM

We have the exact same TT and have been many a time with A/C, water heater, microwave running and never pop it. The only time we consistently pop a breaker is if my wife is cooking outside on the electric griddle and I try to run the Keurig to make coffee... can't make bacon and coffee at the same time...

need-a-vacation · 09-25-2015, 10:45 AM

Things like GC just mentioned is why I will run an extra extension cord from the 20amp pedestal outlet to the ice maker, griddle, crock pot, toaster, etc. I carry a 50' 14ga cord, and outlet strip, but still need to buy a 25' for when the 50' is to long.

Amosmoses33 · 09-25-2015, 12:25 PM

Not sure what type of wdh you have but I've read on the Equalizer and other friction bar type sets is you want that popping at low speeds. The friction is what is doing the job, you don't want the bars to easily slide on the frame supports (L-bars).

finally03gt · 09-25-2015, 12:33 PM

Good thought. We don't have the outdoor kitchen.

TWP723 · 09-25-2015, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gone campin

can't make bacon and coffee at the same time...

WHAAA?? This just won't do.

**norty1** · 09-25-2015, 02:34 PM

[QUOTE=Gone campin;343901 can't make bacon and coffee at the same time...[/QUOTE]

Now that is the definition of roughing it!

Gone campin · 09-25-2015, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finally03gt

Good thought. We don't have the outdoor kitchen.

We don't have the outdoor kitchen either - just use a griddle out on a table plugged into the outlet on the side of the trailer - keeps the camper from smelling like bacon grease. I need to get a good cord like said above to plug the griddle in right off of the pedestal so it won't pop. I need my coffee in the morning

finally03gt · 09-26-2015, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amosmoses33

Not sure what type of wdh you have but I've read on the Equalizer and other friction bar type sets is you want that popping at low speeds. The friction is what is doing the job, you don't want the bars to easily slide on the frame supports (L-bars).

Missed this reply earlier. The dealer told me I'd hear popping in the chassis of the TV if the sway bar (Husky) was too tight. Maybe I should take a cruise around the block with out the sway bar and see if I can isolate the bar from the spring bars? If popping in the sway bar is the result of properly tightened or a bit too tight, I'll live with it, because it is doing it's job well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gone campin

keeps the camper from smelling like bacon grease. ......I need my coffee in the morning

And what in the world is so wrong with the TT smelling like bacon.

YES on the coffee.

Gone campin · 09-26-2015, 07:48 AM

When it comes to the WDH, I learned a ton by downloading the manufacturer's info off of their website - the dealer set up the WDH on our Tahoe when we bought the TT, but I had to set it up myself (I don't pay for anything I can do myself) when I got my Silverado. Turns out that many of the things the dealer did/told me about the hitch were incorrect. I set it up per Reese on the truck and it works even better than it did on the Tahoe.

finally03gt · 09-26-2015, 02:17 PM

Yea, I watched the Husky you tube set up videos. The only thing I didn't double check was the head angle. Mine is slightly down, but the set up is working well.

Munro519 · 09-29-2015, 10:03 PM

It would be worth checking your actual load, just to make sure there isn't an issue between the inside panel and the the 30A cord. My first thought was low voltage at the pedestal, but figure that breaker would trip first. And it wouldn't have repeated at the house. If your expected loads don't add up to 30A, you could have a wiring or device issue causing the overload instead of a weak breaker. Worth getting it looked at pretty close to be safe.

finally03gt · 09-30-2015, 05:39 AM

Thanks, I haven't purchased an EMS yet, and setting up a breakout to run an amp meter is more than I wanted to do at the time. I do have a clamp style amp meter, but it's cheap gear and I'm not sure how accurate it is. I did check voltage at I believe 125 volts before I plugged in.
Also, this has happened at a site using the pedestal and the TT cord, and at home using my home service with a 50' extension. Common denominator is the TT. Still could be other factors, but troubleshooting 101, what's the common link, and where is the last place you "fixed" something else..haha. At least that's how we approach robotic submarines.

You may also like: