Getting my first trailer, sanity check?

[Rootus]

Just picked up a 2014 F150 yesterday, and planning to get a TT in the next couple weeks -- either a 23MBH or a X213, and the final decision may just come down to availability or whim . The truck is a 4x4 Screw short-bed with the 3.5L ecoboost and 3.31 gears (9200 rated capacity, 7200 GVWR, 1425 payload), has the basic tow package installed (receiver, plugs). I ordered the OE brake controller today and hope to install it this weekend. I'm unsure about what else I need to get that I won't get from the RV dealer (and for that matter, I might go used if the '15 X213 I've been eyeing is still for sale when I'm ready). I figure I'll just pony up for an Equal-i-zer, and as long as the wiring all works and the brake controller is activated (Ford has to do it) then that's about all I need mechanically to make this a success? Am I correct that I can safely tow either of this trailers with this pickup? For extra payload it'll be me, the wife, two young children and a dog (figuring 550# for all of us).

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm a total newbie to this RV towing think and I'm trying to make sure I set myself up for as painless and safe experience as possible, so we can just focus on having a great time camping.

[Jagiven]

I am not familiar with the exact details on those tts, but if I recall correctly they are both around the 5K to 6K range. So you should be fine. One thing most people forget is kids grow fast, they bring "stuff and friends", so having extra TV capacity is a good thing. You could easily have 1K pounds in the TV, in a few years.

Get a few things from the RV dealership, just to get you going. You may find Walmart, Amazon will be much cheaper to get the items you need to outfit your new TT. Things that do not come with TTs is a tire jack or a lug wrench to change a tire, your TV's may or may not work. Should get 4 wheel chokes, X-Chokes or similar is a nice to have, they will take a fair amount of wiggle out when people are moving around. Need some boards (plastic or wood) to level, side to side, I also like them under my stabilizers. Don't use the nose wheel for the tongue jack, you will roll all over the place. I use a wood board under the tongue, but you can get nice pads to add to the tongue jack. Don't forget some method to tell if you are level, when you setup. I used a good 4 foot level to get the tt nice and level and then applied some silicone to the tongue and applied a bullseye surface level into the silicone, and got it just perfect. Now I do not need to pull out a level anymore.

Have fun

[fielro]

Welcome aboard. My advice is to do lots of research before you decide on the TT

[Roadhound]

I just bought a 2016 X213. My 2010 F150 5.4 v8 w/oem trailer brake, tow package and weight distribution hitch. I love the total package so far. Only traveled 80 miles with the trailer.

[Rootus]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

One thing most people forget is kids grow fast, they bring "stuff and friends", so having extra TV capacity is a good thing. You could easily have 1K pounds in the TV, in a few years.

That's a great point, thanks! I guess I'll be making regular visits to the local scales (we have a defunct weigh station not too far away where they've left the scale operational 24/7, it's very handy) to make sure we're staying within the limits of the pickup. Is it better to load the pickup full, or put stuff in the trailer until it reaches it's GVWR?

Originally Posted by fielro

Welcome aboard. My advice is to do lots of research before you decide on the TT

Thanks! I've been researching every day, and I've looked inside more TTs than I can count. We were pretty sure after the online research that the murphy-bed/bunks floorplan would be a nice fit, because it would keep the length under control and give the kids beds of their own. Visiting the Jayco dealer in person solidified that, as well as seeing lots of other manufacturers' implementations (though true murphy beds are not super common).

Originally Posted by Roadhound

I just bought a 2016 X213. My 2010 F150 5.4 v8 w/oem trailer brake, tow package and weight distribution hitch. I love the total package so far. Only traveled 80 miles with the trailer.

That's nice to hear. This new F150 we bought seems pretty stout (I think it's as big as my old F250 from twenty years ago, and it's a lot more powerful), I'm hoping for a smooth experience.

[mothernaturesson]

Bought our first tt last year, 24FBS just a tad over 5000 pounds. I'm towing with a 2001 Tundra 4.7 litter V8 rated for 7200# and equalizer hitch. She pulls it well, It does struggle up steep grades though, and the suspension is doing fine. Don't think that info helps you specifically but if the old grey girl can pull it off you should be OK if you do the research and don't get too close to your max tow rate.

[robert9999]

You & me in the same boat. I picked up a CPO 2014 F150 SCAB with 16,000 miles on the odo that came with a tow pack this February. It has the 5.0L ,3:31 gears, 8100lbs max tow capacity. I ordered a 25BH which has a max GVWR of 6750lbs, empty about 5400lbs. I had ford install the brake controller & I also ordered a wireless back up camera from Crutchfield so I can hitch it up without going crazy. I also got some aftermarket tow mirrors that snap on over the existing ones. I got a Reese duel cam wt. dist. hitch . Tongue wt. of trailer is 655lbs, WD hitch 120 lbs., battery & tanks about another 160 total 935lbs. Hitch rated for 600 -1200 lbs. so I'm good to go there If I keep the TT under 6300 lbs. & keep a load off rear wheels of truck. I will have 2 - 4 passengers at times.

[need-a-vacation]

Rootus,

Welcome and congrats on the upcoming rig!!!

Is the 142(lb payload per the yellow sticker in the drivers door jamb? Regardless, if you were to load the truck heavy with almost everything you could, you will probably be over your truck's gvwr, and possibly the RAR depending on what is in he bed. Tow rating for a lot of 150/1500 trucks are inflated in terms of a tt. They have plenty of power to move the tt, but not the payload once the family is in the tv, any accessories are added (truck topper, bed liner, step bars,etc), the wdh, and the tt tw, which all count toward the tv payload and gvwr.

Do not believe the manufactures "brochure" dry tw either! It does not include the weight of the propane tank(s) or a battery of the tongue. For 2-20lb tanks and a battery that alone adds ~120lbs. That is even before loading the tt up for a trip with bedding, clothes, or "extras" (camp chairs, grill, cooler, etc). So make sure you choose the correct rated wd bars for your tt once it is loaded, not by the "brochure" dry weight. For comparison, our "dry tw" of 910lbs is ~1400lbs loaded, ready for a trip. And the fresh water tank was empty.....

Even if the dealer sets up your wdh, you may need to readjust it once the tt is loaded up. The dealer only sets up the wdh for an empty rig.

Good luck shopping!!!

[Rootus]

Seems like I need to look at a Feather 23BHM rather than the 23MBH. Same floorplan, slightly lighter. GVWR of 6250, so potentially a TW of 720 pounds? Add in 120 pounds of Equal-i-zer, 550 pounds of humans & canine, and we're pushing the payload rating of the pickup without any extras. Sounds like it's doable but need to be super careful about how much crap we carry and where we carry it.

I figured I'd go for the Equal-i-zer with the 1000# TW capacity, seems big enough for anything I'm planning in the forseeable future.

Now I'm trying to figure out pricing. Online pricing varies by $10K for any of these models I'm looking at. And one of the cheaper places even says "email us, this price isn't the lowest we will go." I'd have to drive 250 miles for that, maybe I could use it as leverage to get Camping World to come down a bit? The prices they quoted us in person when we were on the lot were essentially MSRP. $24K for a X213, 25K for a 23MBH.

[need-a-vacation]

Rootus,

For a safe and stable tow you generally need 12-15% tw. Some trailers like a little more, some do fine with a little less. Most fellow members seem to suggest using 12% (or 13%) of the tt gvwr to estimate the loaded tw. If the trailer you are looking at has a little less available payload, you may consider using 13% to try to be safe.

Say 6300lbs, the tw could be ~760lbs (12%) - ~ 950lbs. So the 1000lb bars should be just fine. It all depends on how you pack, and the layout of the trailer regarding storage.

Consider the Reese SC wdh system as well. Very similar to the Equal-I-Zer 4 way, but the hitch head does allow a little more fine tuning (head tilt) for the wd bars adjustment.

I don't see why you won't be ok, just pack carefully, and don't try taking enough adult beverages to supply the cg! Be sure to hit the scales so you know. The how to link is in my signature. And at the end of each camping season, go through the rig and see what wasn't used at all... take all that out! If there was something that was only used once or twice, consider only taking it on those certain trips.

Good luck!!!

[Rootus]

Thanks again to everyone who replied to me in this thread, I really appreciate it! So much to learn, so much to remember, I think I'll put together a checklist to keep with my TT so that I can remember all the things to check before leaving on a trip .

I put down a deposit yesterday on an '16 X213, going to pick it up next Saturday. Not as roomy as the 23MBH for sure, but we decided we preferred something small for our first TT -- easy to tow, easy to park, etc. We're planning a lot more camping than traveling. DW and I are committed to sticking with the F150 and the X213 for a minimum of 5 years before letting upgrade-itis take hold. We'll see how that works out...

Along with the TT, I ordered a 1000# Equal-i-zer hitch. I think I'll pay the techs at the dealer to install it, rather than try to do it myself in their parking lot ;-). I could probably accomplish it but it might take half the afternoon.

Again, thanks! I love all the useful information and helpful people on these forums. Some day maybe I'll have enough experience to give back to the community.

[oldmanAZ]

Congratulations on the new trailer!

Before, and after, the dealer installs the hitch, it's a good idea to go over the manual (it is available online) and the hitch setup to double check it. Some techs at dealerships are savvy and get it right... others, not so much.

[cekkk]

What Oldman said. Read up on WD hitch setting up. There are instructions as to measuring ground to top of opening over front and rear tires before and after hookup. Heights should be close to the same if dealer sets you up properly. Chances of that are 50/50 at a Camping World.

You may want to practice backing up if this is your first time with a trailer. My wife and I have worked with hand signals and find they actually work better than walk-talkies for us. She'll back it in as often as I do.

It's especially important for the DW to be able to handle things at the wheel if it's raining cats and poodles when you get to your site. Unless, of course, she's a natural mudder, which mine isn't. Except when she's on her ATV. Whole different person then!

[need-a-vacation]

Root,

Congrats!!! Bet you can't wait for p/u day!!!

Concerning the hitch, you should learn about it as much as possible. As mentioned, the chance of the dealer setting it up correctly for a loaded, ready to camp trailer is slim. They are only setting the wdh to an empty trailer. Follow my signature links for a ton of wdh info. The hard part will possibly be having the proper size tools to readjust the wdh.

Do you have the factory brake controller (can't recall if you mentioned it)? If not, look into a Prodigy P2 or P3 controller.

If you need help with the need accessories, just search a little or ask, we are here to help you outfit the rig. You will want a better sewer hose than what the dealer will probably give you to start with.

Good luck!!!

[Kenelz]

Looks like you have a real nice setup!

One suggestion, get a backup camera setup, they are cheap. I put one on the bumper aimed right at the hitch ball. Being single, it took a lot of hassle out of getting in and out. I back up and drop on the hitch the first time.

I got mine off Amazon, the camera (with night vision) was $15, the monitor (with two inputs) was $35, and the RCA cable was $5. That was five years ago.

I added another camera in the back window of the TT. Since the monitor has two imputs, after I hook up, I switch over to the camera in the back window. Nice to see behind when on the road, and also when backing in a spot.

[Rootus]

Definitely want a backup camera. Got addicted to it with our van, and even on my STI, which is a fairly small car, I find it's really handy to have a camera that can see directly behind the car. Tomorrow will be the first time I've hooked up the trailer 100% by myself, today the dealer did it after installing the hitch before I was even done with paperwork.

I looked over the hitch real well and I'm satisfied it was installed correctly, at least competently mechanically speaking, but the tech who did our 'hitch class' seemed a bit lackadaisical about the adjusting. I said something about adjusting it once we had it loaded and he said "shouldn't need to." Ooooookay, I don't think I will take that advice.

It pulled like a dream today (hardly would know it's there except for that occasional tug to let you know you had a couple tons of weight hanging out behind you). 7-pin connector on my truck is broken, though, someone pulled the harness from the back without unlatching it and broke the latch, so the connector kept disconnecting/reconnecting on the way home (truck notices, puts a big message on the screen warning you the trailer is disconnected, beeps at ya ). I played it very safe on stopping distances and it was only about 20 miles, all freeway; new connector arrives Tuesday and we're not going anywhere until next weekend at least.

Backing is harder than it looks ;-). But I did pretty quickly start to get an idea of the pattern, and I think it'll turn out fine. A bit weird to wrap your brain around.

If you're still reading at this point, I do have a question. I must have slept through part of the PDI. We have six keys -- two of three different kinds. One set of black keys that unlocks the cargo hatch and the outside shower hatch, and some pink keys that open the human door and the cargo door on the left side. Then we have another set of pink keys, and I can't figure out what lock those go to. Am I missing something?

Ford & X213 porn:

[Rustysocket]

If you are new to backing a trailer, just go slow. Use a spotter and don't be afraid to get out and verify what your doing.


A good tip that can help you... If you put your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel In the six o clock position as your backing in reverse. If you want the rear of your trailer to move to the left you move your hand to the left. If you want to move the rear of the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right.


When I am teaching new drivers to back trailers most of them appreciate that tip and it helps them when backing into spots.


Enjoy your new trailer. It looks like a nice rig!


I'm going to guess that the majority of people never adjust there hitch from the dealer installed position. Get yourself a tape measure and go through the hitch setup just as though your were installing it yourself and take the measurements. Don't change anything just yet. But go through the process of measuring the squat of the rear and the change when adding the bars to the front. It will give you reference points for if / when you do feel like messing with it. I have the 14K version of the hitch. The equalizer is a great product and easy to fine tune.
You will hear a lot about adjusting your hitch on internet forums because you are dealing with people who are true enthusiasts or have had a problem and are seeking help. Again most people don't get on internet forums until they need help or have a problem. My guess is your rig is going to tow fine.

[Rustysocket]

Regarding your extra keys.. was a hitch lock installed? a lock on the spare tire?

[micron]

I added a pair of towing mirrors to my F150. Got them at A1Auto.com. Great quality, plug and play and a fraction of the cost of OEM. What a difference they make.

[Hornistsnest]

Excited for you! We jump in and as long as you cover your bases by over planning you'll be fine. Equalizer is good. Plan for heavier than you need. We're getting the 23mbh- giving up our roo 23ss. Sounds like you will do fine whatever you decide. Enjoy!