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Old 07-20-2016, 12:44 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by suzhou View Post
OK, I did some more reading and most posts i see that are from credible sources say yes, you can add LT tires, air bags, etc and perhaps (key word) get a bit higher payload capacity but - you cannot change the max payload rating for your vehicle per the sticker. There is more to it than just the tires. The HD package for my truck also includes different leaf springs as well as different tires
You could conceivably change tires, suspension, brakes, possibly even axles, ect...and end up with a truck capable of handling the load. But you'd have a tough time calculating a new "max load"

Unless you were able to talk a Ford dealership into installing the "max tow" and/or "max payload" package after the fact.

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We intend to do a lot of traveling soon, just getting started, and my wife is already convinced we need a new truck. Hey, I can't argue with her on getting a new truck. She already went to the lot with me looking for an F250 that she likes.
Just be aware that the same rules apply to F250 as they do the F150. Sure the limits are higher, but the equipment makes a difference...
https://www.ford.com/resources/ford/...u_r1_nov12.pdf
2016 Ford Super Duty | View Payload Specifications | Ford.com

Max Towing: 12,500 to 14,000
Max Payload: 2,880 to 4,040
Max Tongue: 1,250 - 1,400

An 800# TW empty is probably going to end up about 900# or higher...

Be sure you understand what equipment is required to get the higher towing/payloads. Don't depend on the "sure it will tow it" salesperson...

Look at the yellow door sticker showing payload for any truck you are considering.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:56 PM   #42
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Suz,

With an estimated 7500lb travel trailer, a gas motor will pull the trailer all day long! Just know that it will need to rev a little more to get the most out of the motor power wise. A diesel will get a little better mpg, and will not need to rev at 3k+ rpm' like a gas motor, but will cost about $7-8k more..... So it is a tough decision. While we have only towed here in Michigan, our trailer is ~9200# loaded, ready for a trip and I haven't been the slow person going up any hills or grades. Main one being just north of West Branch on I75 is a slow, continuous incline. 4th gear was not enough to maintain speed, was dropping 65....64....63... etc, gradually. Gave a little gas, trans dropped into 3rd and away we went!!! I was doing about 70mph before I noticed.

And don't rule out a 350 SRW if you can find the right one!!! Even more payload.

Good luck deciding!!!
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:04 PM   #43
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I'm sure some of you will disagree with my plan but - I'm going to go for a new 2016 F150. I looked hard at F250s today and problems are: they are too long to fit in my garage and I don't want it outside all the time, the platinum 150 has auto deploy running boards that come low enough and flat/wide for my wife to get in. She can't with the others, leg issues. The load capacity on a platinum 250 was not a whole lot higher than the new 150 without giving up some options and ending up with a work style truck. With the shift to the aluminum body structure the current models have a load capacity of approx. 1,600lb, twice what I have now and should be enough. I'll keep an eye on my loading. The truck spends 95% of it's life driving around town and to the grocery store, lowes, etc.

Also, I had a long discussion with the ford dealership "experts" and even they could not explain the web site specs for my truck vs the door sticker. Testing them showed they would have sold me a truck, knowing my specific trailer carrying requirements, that did not meet my needs based on the door specs listed. They quote the high end numbers off the web site and when pressed say hey, everybody tows more than allowed, it will handle it, no worries. They also said they had never had anyone even challenge the numbers or ask in detail about the specs. Surprising. They also claimed that the spec listed does not include what they called an ARC (accessory reserve capacity) that actually gives you another approx 400lb of load capacity on top of the stated number. This seemed odd to me that there is an assumption of an accessory add on that can be piled onto the stated number but still be in spec.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:44 PM   #44
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GVWR , GCWR - confused

I agree the power running boards are amazing! Not sure I could give them up! Make sure that payload number is on your door sticker! Your tongue weight is going to be higher than mine once loaded but you have less people (although we are kinda puny. LOL) So I think you'll end up with a bit of wiggle room. Make sure check the rear axle rating as we pretty much hit that before payload.

And don't ever upgrade your trailer or take any other passengers.

Oh, and I swear I checked at least 2 dozen platinums without MaxTow and they all had similar payload to yours. So yours wasn't an anomaly. I probably still have sticker pics.

Anyway, congrats!
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:50 PM   #45
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I know your pain Suz! The real test comes when you ask them to put in print their claims that "you'll be fine..."! All of a sudden, they're not so certain! After buying my 2500, and coming across a forum post stating not to trust Ram's posted numbers, I did research down to the engineering sheets what each model could tow, and what they actually considered payload in the engineering Dept. Nobody at the dealership could believe the payload was so low, and every single one of them said how many trucks were towing my load "just fine"! But not a one of them, all the way up to the owner, would put it in writing! So they pushed it up the chain to the legal department and customer service. Nobody there could believe the numbers either, one guy going so far as to state that he was going straight to the IT guys to change the website so that it didn't happen to anybody else! Didn't help me though...

The same was true with Jayco. The dealership as well as the regional rep said they'd sold dozens of the same trailer I had to families with the same tow vehicle, and couldn't believe it could potentially be, depending on options and how loaded, nearly a ton over weight!

And the craziest thing I saw was the head of product development, some VP for Ram, post a YouTube video showing off the new four link suspension with the airbags, and openly state that they know people will overload the truck, and that it'll take much of that and will be fine, but at some point, the air bags will fail! It sounded like permission to risk it, yet again, no numbers to back up the claim.

In the end, Ram bought most of the truck back, and I'm sure if I had gone to litigation, I'd have won. They made an offer that was somewhat reasonable, and we upgraded without too much regret.

Good luck with your new truck! Keep us posted how she tows your rig!
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:12 PM   #46
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Congrats on the new tv!!! 1600# is a fair amount. As you mentioned, just watch how you load.

Enjoy the new tv!
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:14 PM   #47
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I'm sure some of you will disagree with my plan but - I'm going to go for a new 2016 F150. I looked hard at F250s today and problems are: they are too long to fit in my garage and I don't want it outside all the time, the platinum 150 has auto deploy running boards that come low enough and flat/wide for my wife to get in. She can't with the others, leg issues. The load capacity on a platinum 250 was not a whole lot higher than the new 150 without giving up some options and ending up with a work style truck. With the shift to the aluminum body structure the current models have a load capacity of approx. 1,600lb, twice what I have now and should be enough. I'll keep an eye on my loading. The truck spends 95% of it's life driving around town and to the grocery store, lowes, etc.

Also, I had a long discussion with the ford dealership "experts" and even they could not explain the web site specs for my truck vs the door sticker. Testing them showed they would have sold me a truck, knowing my specific trailer carrying requirements, that did not meet my needs based on the door specs listed. They quote the high end numbers off the web site and when pressed say hey, everybody tows more than allowed, it will handle it, no worries. They also said they had never had anyone even challenge the numbers or ask in detail about the specs. Surprising. They also claimed that the spec listed does not include what they called an ARC (accessory reserve capacity) that actually gives you another approx 400lb of load capacity on top of the stated number. This seemed odd to me that there is an assumption of an accessory add on that can be piled onto the stated number but still be in spec.
Curious, was the 250 you were comparing a Diesel by chance? I was pretty shocked how low the payloads on those were as well when I was shopping learned the Diesels are heavier and reduce it by quite a bit as the engine is just that much heavier. I think my 2013 F150 Lariat Maxtow vs the 2015 F250 Lariat with the powerstroke were within 200 lbs of each other via the door sticker, I did post on here some time ago with pictures of the stickers, there was a noticeable difference in the Gas and Diesel payloads. The dealer was amazed as you said when I pointed this out, and it was hard to deny as the 2 door stickers were sitting right next to each other.

Sounds like with 1600lbs, you should be able to manage it. I had the exact same issue of the garage problem, which is why I ended up with the Ram, of the 3/4 Ton supercrews, it was the shortest, just a little longer than the F150 SCREW and it fits my garage by a few inches without a tow bar. The F250 would not have had a chance. You will like the unloaded ride of the F150 better as well most likely.

I do think its still worth loading up and getting your weights, then you know if you have capacity to tow with water in the tanks, how much you can put in the bed, if your weight distribution hitch is set up right, etc. Its bought me some peace of mind. Enjoy your rig!
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:28 AM   #48
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I don't want to sound like Debbie downer but I think a 1600 lb cargo capacity may not be enough of an increase. I believe I read your empty TW is 800lbs. Once loaded up, it'll be closer to 900. Add the weight of your hitch (maybe 100), driver and passenger (300?) and you're around 1400 pounds already. If you have additional passengers, you'll be at your limit. Or, adding gear to the truck, firewood, etc will put you at or over you capacity. Something to think about


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Old 07-21-2016, 07:30 AM   #49
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Congrats on the new truck. It probably wasn't an easy decision to trade in already, but you'll definitely enjoy towing with it more.

I had to look at the 1st post to see your TT specs:
TT - 265RLSW, 6,118lb with 2 propane bottles per sticker, tongue weight is 800lb per scale I purchased.
With 1600# available payload, that should be just fine! Just don't overload the truck bed.
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Old 07-21-2016, 09:15 AM   #50
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Yes, the 250s were diesel and only added about 200-300lbs of capacity. Those things are heavy. Yep, at 1,600lb I will be close but under. We carry nothing in the bed of the truck other than a couple of lawn chairs and a bag of charcoal. Our added items in the trailer are minimal and I travel with just enough water for a couple of toilet flushes. I will be near my max on some trips perhaps but, assuming the numbers do have a few lbs of buffer in them I feel better knowing I'm just under or at my max vs over from the start. A 3/4 ton would be better the towing for sure but, too many other downsides for me to go there for a couple hundred lbs.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:14 AM   #51
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Suz,

Buying a 250/2500 series truck (or 350/3500) does not mean you have to get the diesel motor. The gas motors are just as capable within reason. Our '13 2500HD with the 6.0 gas motor has a payload of 275X# and tows our ~9200# 32 BHDS just fine. Being a gasser we have about 300lbs more than the diesel comparable if I recall correctly. Granted, our truck isn't "loaded" with leather, factory navigation, sunroof, etc, but it nicely equipped.

Good luck with the new truck and hope all works well!
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:44 PM   #52
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Yes, the 250s were diesel and only added about 200-300lbs of capacity. Those things are heavy. Yep, at 1,600lb I will be close but under. We carry nothing in the bed of the truck other than a couple of lawn chairs and a bag of charcoal. Our added items in the trailer are minimal and I travel with just enough water for a couple of toilet flushes. I will be near my max on some trips perhaps but, assuming the numbers do have a few lbs of buffer in them I feel better knowing I'm just under or at my max vs over from the start. A 3/4 ton would be better the towing for sure but, too many other downsides for me to go there for a couple hundred lbs.
I figured. One of the reasons why I went with the Gas model, which has a payload of 3042lbs on the door post.

If I had gotten the diesel, I honestly think I would have gone with a SRW3500 instead, but I am fortunate to live in a state where that doesn't impact registration much.

You are correct, there are downsides to having a heavy duty truck as a daily driver when your used to the SUV like ride, height, etc of many half tons. Sounds like with your setup you made a good decision.

I really hope you enjoy your new truck.
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:01 PM   #53
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Hooked up the new TV today and drove out about 10 miles and back. Front feels firmly planted on the road and no sense of floating or front end drift. Pull and power were fine as expected and even seemed a bit better since this one has a 3.55 gear ratio and does have the max tow package whereas my previous truck, as I discovered, did not. Lots of bells and whistles, too many actually, but one that I plan to use is the trailer backup assist. I've watched the youtube videos and if it works as demonstrated then that should be a real plus. The F150 Platinum FX4 inside is decked out and a very comfortable ride. My wheel opening measurements for hookup are below and seem fine but I do plan to find a place nearby to weigh it just to be sure all is ok. The front is close to same height and rear drops by a little less than 2" when all connected.


Truck alone: front = 37 1/4" / rear = 39 1/4"
Truck+Trailer no WD: front = 38" / rear = 36 3/4"
Truck+Trailer+WD: front = 37 3/8" / rear = 37 5/8"

I was able to get a reasonable deal but in the end this was an expensive oversight on my part, not to mention the weathertech mats, front and back, and mud flaps that don't fit. Maybe can get them sold on ebay. At least my bed cover still fits.
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Old 07-23-2016, 05:58 AM   #54
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Based on those measurements alone, the hitch looks to be adjusted properly. Do yourself a favor and learn to back in your trailer without that assist. When you upgrade your TV eventually, you'll want to not have to rely on it as an option. Once you get the hang of it, backing your trailer is really no big deal. The trick is to turn the bottom of your steering wheel go in the direction that you want to back of the trailer to move.
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:19 AM   #55
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The wdh sounds like it is very close to returning most of the lost weight to the fa. But I believe I have read Ford is now suggesting to only return 25% back on the new trucks. Double check your manual to verify what is suggested.

Enjoy the new rig!!!
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:13 PM   #56
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Not sure I follow. Return 25% back to the fa (front axle I assume)? Thx.
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:30 PM   #57
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Not sure I follow. Return 25% back to the fa (front axle I assume)? Thx.
Yes. Front axle.

Estimated weights:
If the fa weighs 3000# (truck only).
Then once you hook up the tt (no wd bars), if the fa weighs 2600#, due to teeter-totter effect.
Then depending on what is suggested by Ford, you will want the wdh adjusted so the fa weight is 2700# (25% of lost weight returned)- 3000# (100% of lost weight returned to front axle) once the wd bars are hooked up.

Just make sure to check your owners manual to see what is suggested.
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:49 PM   #58
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Ok. Thx. Dang, maybe I just need to buy a set of truck scales. Seems an option to give a weight readout for each wheel or axle would be a great idea. Just like tire pressure but weight. Otherwise this is hard to do right. Guess that's why many people just don't bother.
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:00 PM   #59
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Not hard to weigh the rig at a CAT Scale. Just make sure your wheels are on the proper scale pad. Don't want the rear axle adding weight to the front axle because you pulled up to far!!! Lol

You will want to weigh three time as outlined in my signature link. All the weights can be figured from there (except each individual tire weight).
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