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Old 08-13-2016, 10:28 AM   #11
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Yes, thermodisc or thermal disk, not thermocouple. Mine us actually screwed into one of the cooling fins at the top left just inside the upper compartment.

I am just going to Bypass it for now. I dont suppose that 12v hot wire is wired to the refrigerator power is it, is it straight hot from the trailer box?
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:44 AM   #12
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If you pull off the wires from the thermal disk just connect them together or put temporarily a switch in between. Or go to a plumbing/heating supplier and get a new one. Or a RV dealer.
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:12 PM   #13
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It is actually a heat controlled switch. If it is not secured to the pipe and of the correct temperature, it will never close.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:05 PM   #14
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Thermostat power is switched by the fridge switch. Fridge off secures power to the disc.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:19 PM   #15
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Hi All. So I hard wired the fan with a spare 15A fuse, bypassed the Thermal Disk all together. That solved the issue when on electricity, temperature was easily under 35, I had to turn the thermostat down a little to keep it from freezing the refrigerator area. I also added a battery operated fan inside to circulate the air.

Traveling back today, outside temperature was 75-80. I was running on LP, Fan was still in "always on" mode and it ALMOST maintained temperature, but when we would open the fridge, it would never recover By the time we got to our night spot, we were at 44, we want to see it at 40 or below. I have looked thru the small access hole, the flame is lit, I haven't done much more than that. The only thing that has really changed recently is on our last trip in early July we did run out of gas and switched to the second tank for the first time (Our dealer advised us to just keep it on 1 tank, and manually switch, not leave the regulator in the auto switch position). I had the empty tank filled tonight and am going to try running off that tank tomorrow and see if there is any difference, I suppose there is a chance this may be the regulator and its just not pumping enough gas back there but I am grasping at straws here. We also just put the thermometer in the refrigerator, so honestly I cant be 100% sure this hasn't been an issue all along, although it has in the past cooled down within 12-18 hours to quite cool on gas, this trip it didn't. I am not sure we have really used the outside grill our stove since we did this switch. Otherwise I will just have the dealer look at it in September when they winterize and do my laundry list of warranty issues.

My only question at this point, is my expectation unreasonable that when running on Gas the refrigerator should cool just as good as (if not better) than when on electric?
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:43 PM   #16
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Your expectation is correct...the fridges always seem to work better on gas for me. We are on our 3rd Norcold fridge.
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsallman1 View Post
Hi All. So I hard wired the fan with a spare 15A fuse, bypassed the Thermal Disk all together. That solved the issue when on electricity, temperature was easily under 35, I had to turn the thermostat down a little to keep it from freezing the refrigerator area. I also added a battery operated fan inside to circulate the air.

Traveling back today, outside temperature was 75-80. I was running on LP, Fan was still in "always on" mode and it ALMOST maintained temperature, but when we would open the fridge, it would never recover By the time we got to our night spot, we were at 44, we want to see it at 40 or below. I have looked thru the small access hole, the flame is lit, I haven't done much more than that. The only thing that has really changed recently is on our last trip in early July we did run out of gas and switched to the second tank for the first time (Our dealer advised us to just keep it on 1 tank, and manually switch, not leave the regulator in the auto switch position). I had the empty tank filled tonight and am going to try running off that tank tomorrow and see if there is any difference, I suppose there is a chance this may be the regulator and its just not pumping enough gas back there but I am grasping at straws here. We also just put the thermometer in the refrigerator, so honestly I cant be 100% sure this hasn't been an issue all along, although it has in the past cooled down within 12-18 hours to quite cool on gas, this trip it didn't. I am not sure we have really used the outside grill our stove since we did this switch. Otherwise I will just have the dealer look at it in September when they winterize and do my laundry list of warranty issues.

My only question at this point, is my expectation unreasonable that when running on Gas the refrigerator should cool just as good as (if not better) than when on electric?
Is there a chance when you opened the valve on the 2nd propane tank you "tripped" the safety device and it has minimized your gas flow?
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:12 PM   #18
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Our Norcold Fridge is the last 4 months constant running on electric and no problems at all. Never lost a Fridge in 50 years (my luck) always do regular maintenance and protect from winter weather. The Fridges are designed to keep the temperature in the boiler at the same for gas or electric.
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:17 PM   #19
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not sure that you have a thermistor or not but our fridge had the same type issues and it turned out to be the location of the thermistor on the fins.
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