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Old 08-16-2017, 03:49 PM   #21
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Anyone try wax paper

A fellow camping buddy and member of this forum suggested wax paper. I have used it 5-6 times now and it works great. I just tear off a large enough sheet and fold it over a couple of times before holding it on the ball while lowering the hitch. Paper is only good for one tow, but very clean. and easy to dispose of. I have not seen any damage to the ball.
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Old 08-16-2017, 04:47 PM   #22
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Ball lube

I had some difficulties getting the coupler to disconnect from the ball and was advised to use some grease. Picked up some high density ball grease at the RV store and use it every time I hook up. Never had a problem since. Beware of grease on your pants! I now immediately cover the ball when I disconnect having ruined more than a couple pair of pants ��
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Old 08-16-2017, 04:53 PM   #23
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Clean and grease before leaving. Use this at campsite and when storing hitch.

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Old 08-16-2017, 08:02 PM   #24
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Thank you for posting about this. We just moved on up from an x19h to a 264bhw and I have had a heck of a time separating the hitch ball from the tongue ... Never had the issue with the older trailer. I am guessing the weight difference may have something to do with it ???? We are using the same setup as it was only three years old. Could it be the hitch ball was "trained" for the old trailer or should I be concerned and be getting a new ball for the new trailer ???
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:13 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by The Fischcocks View Post
Thank you for posting about this. We just moved on up from an x19h to a 264bhw and I have had a heck of a time separating the hitch ball from the tongue ... Never had the issue with the older trailer. I am guessing the weight difference may have something to do with it ???? We are using the same setup as it was only three years old. Could it be the hitch ball was "trained" for the old trailer or should I be concerned and be getting a new ball for the new trailer ???
Most often the problem is the thick layer of paint inside a new coupler. Generally, uncoupling gets easier over time as the ball pushes/wears the paint out of the way. A new ball wouldn't make unhitching any easier.

BTW, congratulations on the new trailer.
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:24 PM   #26
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I have a Whitehawk 2017 24RKS and the dealer supplied me with a flattop ball hitch. Done about 2,000 miles and the very top near the flat is beat to death. I use lithium grease on each trip after cleaning. Dealer said they only had flat top at the time and this is normal for a FT ball. Really?
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:11 AM   #27
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PSA:

Anyone using an Andersen "No-Sway" WDH - do not use grease on the ball, it will eliminate the sway control function since the ball rotates with the coupler through the friction hitch portion .
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:40 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
PSA:

Anyone using an Andersen "No-Sway" WDH - do not use grease on the ball, it will eliminate the sway control function since the ball rotates with the coupler through the friction hitch portion .
Ooohhhhhh. Didn't think about that! Thanks for the heads up!! Now to degrease the ball!!!!
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:47 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe View Post
I have a Whitehawk 2017 24RKS and the dealer supplied me with a flattop ball hitch. Done about 2,000 miles and the very top near the flat is beat to death. I use lithium grease on each trip after cleaning. Dealer said they only had flat top at the time and this is normal for a FT ball. Really?


All hitch balls have a flat top.


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Old 08-17-2017, 12:08 PM   #30
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I don't lubricate the hitch ball and I don't have problems unhitching either... I guess I'm lucky lol...
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:21 PM   #31
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All hitch balls have a flat top.


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Not according to camping world. My landscape trailer is round and has no flat top.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:21 PM   #32
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I never knew anyone greased a hitch ball until I joined this site and read about it. I don't grease mine and never had any troubles.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:24 PM   #33
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Not according to camping world. My landscape trailer is round and has no flat top.


There seems to be a disconnect here... trailers don't have a hitch ball at all. Are you talking about the coupler?


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Old 08-17-2017, 06:46 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by oldmanAZ View Post
Most often the problem is the thick layer of paint inside a new coupler. Generally, uncoupling gets easier over time as the ball pushes/wears the paint out of the way. A new ball wouldn't make unhitching any easier.

BTW, congratulations on the new trailer.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:25 AM   #35
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Just the though of metal rubbing metal causes me to want to use grease. There's a load on that ball, so I, really not knowing if it's necessary, use a molybdenum disulfide grease. I think the last one I bought (seem to disappear long before they're used up) was lithium/moly.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:23 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
PSA:

Anyone using an Andersen "No-Sway" WDH - do not use grease on the ball, it will eliminate the sway control function since the ball rotates with the coupler through the friction hitch portion .
Technically yes, this is true. However, there are 3 distinct pressure points on the ball created by the tension on the chains pulling the coupler forward. You can see them clearly in the attached photo - one on each side of the top and a larger one in the middle near the bottom. While the ball does turn there can be noticeable wear on these pressure points due to changes in alignment of the trailer in relation to the hitch such as occur when you go in and out of parking lots or are traversing uneven terrain.

These wear points appeared very quickly on the ball the first season I used the hitch and prompted me to call Andersen to ask if that was normal. I was told at that time that it was fine to place a small dab of grease on each specific pressure point to help reduce wear and that there would be no impact to the anti-sway function as a result.

So I use a small amount of white lithium grease on those 3 pressure points when hooking up and regularly clean the inside of the coupler to avoid an excess build-up there. I have also seen wear occurring on the first couple links of the chains that go into the frame brackets and apply some grease to those as well.
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:25 PM   #37
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I started using a high temp (500+ degree) axle/bearing grease to reduce the "LOUD" grinding I was hearing for the first several miles of each pull. I did notice wear on the ball and came to the conclusion quickly that it needs to be lubed-up. Once I started doing that, trailer pulls without a peep. A couple of notes to consider: The reason for the high temp rated grease is so it doesn't melt in the hot summer sun and drip off the ball on the ground, me, etc. If you cut the bottom off a plastic soda bottle, it makes an excellent 2 5/16" ball cover to minimize getting grease all over anything that gets near the ball. HTH!

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Old 08-18-2017, 03:41 PM   #38
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Clean and grease before leaving. Use this at campsite and when storing hitch.

Fastway Tethered Hitch Ball Cover - 2 5/16" - Progress 82-00-3216 - Hitch Covers - Camping World
Used sandwich bags B4 I bought this. Cheap and throw away each trip.
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:42 PM   #39
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I never knew anyone greased a hitch ball until I joined this site and read about it. I don't grease mine and never had any troubles.


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Old 08-20-2017, 04:34 AM   #40
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I saved the old Wheel Bearing Grease from the last time I changed them out on my HTT and use it on the Ball and coupler among other things around the house.
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