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06-02-2010, 08:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Indian Trail, N.C.
Posts: 208
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Hitch Ball Torque
Getting ready to transfer everything over to my new hitch head. I have heard that a 2 5/16" ball with a 1 1/4" shank needs to be torqued to 450 ft lbs. Is this true? I don't want my ball coming loose gong down the road.
__________________
Dave and Amy
5 kids...2 with 2 legs, 3 with 4 legs
2008 Jayco Jay Flight G2 29FBS "No Worries"...traded in on a...
2016 Palomino Columbus 385BH "No Worries II"
2011 F-250 Super Duty Lariat, 6.7L PSD "The Mistress"
B&W Companion slider
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08-15-2013, 09:54 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bear, DE
Posts: 25
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When in doubt, torque it down until it starts smoking and then back off a half turn. 
Just be sure and use a new lock washer.
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08-15-2013, 12:21 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: da U.P.
Posts: 352
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I have a 3/4" drive socket set. I put the socket and breaker bar on the nut--------- and then put a 4' pipe on the breaker bar and put my 'girlish' 240+ lbs arse on that.
I don't see it ever coming loose. :wink:
__________________
Kent
FAA licensed A&P aircraft mechanic, ex-RV dealer parts dept
Retired B-52 Gunner/Flight Examiner, B-52 Crew Chief
2016 Jayco Eagle HT 29.5 FBDS w/ 15,000 BTU AC, 50 amp service, upgraded counter top, thermal pane windows, elec. stab jacks, outside grill, backup camera and MORryde pin box.
2011 GMC 2500HD DURAMAX/ ALLISON
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08-15-2013, 01:39 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,793
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I tighten down until new lock washer is compressed flat. No problems after 9,000 miles
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Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
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08-15-2013, 08:05 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 114
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Forget about what you "heard" or what anybody on this forum says/thinks the correct torque should be. It is YOUR responsibility to know the correct torque. Very easy to determine -- at the very least, you could contact the hitch mnfr (Reese?) or find the online install directions for your hitch. Assuming that it is 450ft-lbs, I don't recommend the guesstimate method that uses a breaker bar. Instead, I would suggest that you find a Reese dealer (or an RV dealer) in your area and simply ask the shop to correctly tighten the ball to the hitch (which shouldn't cost more than $25). The shop will most likely will use an air impact wrench, which is way better than a breaker bar. Even better, however, is if the shop employs a torque wrench (eg. 600 ft-lb torque wrench).
__________________
2004 Suburban 2500 LT 8.1L/4.10/4x4
Putnam XDR Class V, Equalizer 1400#
2006 Jayco Eagle 264BHS
Iota DLS-55, Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C, Trimetric TM-2025
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08-16-2013, 03:57 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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You can't tighten a nut down to a specific torque value with an impact wrench any more than you can apply a specific pressure with a sledge hammer. Put blue loctite on the threads along with a fresh lock washer and tighten it up with a cheater bar on your 24" adjustable wrench. It's not the landing gear on the space shuttle.
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2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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08-16-2013, 05:06 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
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I use a 15" crescent wrench on all of my hitch balls and tighten as tight as I can get it while sitting down and really pulling on it.
__________________
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
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08-16-2013, 05:27 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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450ft/lbs according to the Reese instructions. Use some locktite, get it as tight as you can, and you should be good to go for as long as you own the hitch.
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'11 G2 32BHDS
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08-16-2013, 07:11 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 4,037
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Generally a 7500# 2" ball requires 250# torque and the 2 5/16 with 1 1/4 shank require 450. But it is your responsibility to learn what the manufacturer of your equipment recommends. When you have that information go to a shop that has the proper tools to do the job.
__________________
'11 Eagle 320RLDS
'02 F350 PSD Dually 4WD
DW's Ride, '13 Expedition
'14 Denali XL
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08-16-2013, 08:29 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Indian Trail, N.C.
Posts: 208
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Wow...3 years later and I get my response...
...and I did torque it to 450 Ft. Lbs. with a torque wrench... 
__________________
Dave and Amy
5 kids...2 with 2 legs, 3 with 4 legs
2008 Jayco Jay Flight G2 29FBS "No Worries"...traded in on a...
2016 Palomino Columbus 385BH "No Worries II"
2011 F-250 Super Duty Lariat, 6.7L PSD "The Mistress"
B&W Companion slider
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08-16-2013, 08:58 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach8274
Wow...3 years later and I get my response...
...and I did torque it to 450 Ft. Lbs. with a torque wrench... |
Hilarious! I was wondering why you were changing your hitch......
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'11 G2 32BHDS
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08-16-2013, 09:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 114
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Hilarious X2! I didn't notice that your post originated three years ago! I suppose this fits the better-late-than-never category. And of course, those on this forum aim to please, but not always in a timely fashion! Glad to hear that you did it the correct way. Cheers.
__________________
2004 Suburban 2500 LT 8.1L/4.10/4x4
Putnam XDR Class V, Equalizer 1400#
2006 Jayco Eagle 264BHS
Iota DLS-55, Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C, Trimetric TM-2025
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08-16-2013, 12:17 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Indian Trail, N.C.
Posts: 208
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__________________
Dave and Amy
5 kids...2 with 2 legs, 3 with 4 legs
2008 Jayco Jay Flight G2 29FBS "No Worries"...traded in on a...
2016 Palomino Columbus 385BH "No Worries II"
2011 F-250 Super Duty Lariat, 6.7L PSD "The Mistress"
B&W Companion slider
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08-16-2013, 03:28 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,261
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Take a nail set and "ping" the threads close to the nut to keep from backing out. This of course will make it a bit of a PITA to remove later on but at lest you will have some peace of mind.
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08-18-2013, 04:54 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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Solved my problem by taking it to my local tire shop because I couldnt get the hitch bolts loose from the hitch bar when I needed to go to a taller riser. He hit it with his impact wrench [mine didnt budge it] and popped them loose. Installed the head on the new reese riser bar and he reversed the process.
I agree with the other poster, this isnt rocket science. Are you ok with giving a new ball a bump with your basic adjustible wrench? Probably not but do what you got to do and then check it every time you stop for gas or a potty stop the first run out.
PS: My Jayco dealer adjusted the hitch to the highest setting on the old bar [still not enough] and he did the same thing my tire guy did. No torque wrench or special way of sticking out his tongue. Just a commercial impact wrench.
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