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Old 05-31-2016, 08:18 AM   #91
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JFlightRisk's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newark
Posts: 499
Although we've never had a real problem, it seems some styles of coupler are more stubborn. We're in the "we use grease" category. Can't tell you how many times over the years we've seen four guys jumping up and down on the rear bumper of some poor souls truck, trying to get it to drop!

2012 Jay Flight 19RD
2010 Tundra TRD DBL Cab
1 Spoiled Dog
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:04 AM   #92
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 77
Grease the ball??

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Old 05-31-2016, 12:37 PM   #93
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 390
OK, after like 10 pages of responses, here comes my suggestion. First time I went to unhitch my new 23RLSW at a campground I spent over an hour fooling with it, getting nowhere. It's a different coupler than I had on my previous 165RB, and it just seemed like there had to be something I was missing. Finally in desperation I called my dealer's service department, and they set me straight.
  1. White lithium grease on the ball will help - the next time.
  2. Keep the coupler latch assembly lubricated, too. I use WD40 for that.
  3. You'll want to remove the weight distribution bars before doing this.
  4. Start by LOWERING the trailer so that the tongue's weight is mostly resting on your hitch.
  5. Press DOWN on the flip lever to release the coupler.
  6. Now make sure the rear of the lever is clear of the coupler, and push it BACK as far as it will go. It probably won't release unless you do that.
  7. Now raise the trailer tongue until the hitch releases.
I have had zero problems since I started using this procedure.

BTW, it also helps to reverse this procedure when hitching up.

Good luck!


P.S. My signature picture was taken during that frustrating hour of trying to unhitch.

TV 2010 Ford F-150 Supercab
TT 2016 Jay Feather 23RLSW
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:06 PM   #94
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 43
That is good advice, and I do all of those things as well. The biggest help to our trailer was getting the Dremel tool out with the wire brush attachment, and cleaning out the receiver. There was some paint/powder-coating that had dripped inside from the factory and caused be very difficult to uncouple. With the the smoothing out of the inside with the Dremel, lots of grease, and about 4,000 miles of towing, it works like a charm now. I also upgraded tongue jack to the strongest Husky model. It was a fantastic upgrade to make. The rear end of my Ram is so heavy, the new jack makes the uncoupling process seem to work better/smoother.

2014 Ram 2500 MegaCab Turbo-Diesel
2015 Jay Flight 23MBH

Former pilot to the rich and famous. Current domestic engineer, head chef, head laundry officer, head dog walker, and pilot volunteer. Lover of tacos and soccer
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