Hitching up/Weight Distribution? - Page 5

Camper_bob · 04-08-2016, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Weight rating on the bars is 750 and tongue weight from specs is 515

Spec means nothing, you need to weigh it. Go to a CAT scale, or a steel recycling yard or a roadside DOT scale or something. OldmanAZ is right, don't make a move without verifying your weights.

lukenick1 · 04-08-2016, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Spec means nothing, you need to weigh it. Go to a CAT scale, or a steel recycling yard or a roadside DOT scale or something. OldmanAZ is right, don't make a move without verifying your weights.

How can I get to the scale without moving?

Ugh the closest CAT is 35 miles away. All highway!

Camper_bob · 04-08-2016, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukenick1

How can I get to the scale without moving?

Ugh the closest CAT is 35 miles away. All highway!

Do you have a bathroom scale?

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx

At least that will give you tongue weight.

BTW, tongue high creates LOTS of problems, you would much rather be an inch or so low on the tongue if not level.

lukenick1 · 04-08-2016, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Do you have a bathroom scale?

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx

At least that will give you tongue weight.

BTW, tongue high creates LOTS of problems, you would much rather be an inch or so low on the tongue if not level.

That was the only way to give me more ground clearance. If I go back to the 2nd link I will be hanging too low again. On the third link the tongue is a little higher. Ugh this is all so confusing and upsetting. I want a WINNIE!

lukenick1 · 04-08-2016, 10:00 PM

Blkrvrbart · 04-09-2016, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Nope went to 2 different auto parts stores and they both told me battery is no good. I am going to pick up some distilled water and charge it more on the trickle and see what happens. I did not pick up my TT yet this pic was from when I bought it. The dealer set up the hitch system for me.

Far as the battery goes, do NOT add distilled water. Got to your local Interstate Battery dealer. Take your battery, either in the equipment or out, or if you're comfortable working with acid yourself you can do it, and add electrolyte (acid) to it. I live right in front of our local Interstate distributor, and these guys have kept me from ruining batteries by doing just that. Rather than take the battery out of the equipment, I usually service it in place. Please wear GOGGLES (not just safety glasses) and chemical (acid) resistant gloves. One splash can ruin the day pretty quick. Good people that know what they're doing.

I was creeping on here about the wdh. Thanks for the info.

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 07:32 AM

Wish I never woke this thread back up because now I am feeling scared my set up is wrong again and a danger to my family. Ugh!!! I'm supposed to go camping next week!

Blkrvrbart · 04-09-2016, 07:46 AM

What you have is better than nothing at all. I know people who tow with no wdh. That's a risk. Just always err to caution. Getting there safe makes a fun trip.

LiftedAWDAstro · 04-09-2016, 07:47 AM

I wouldn't say your setup is wrong. I would say you can do things to optimize it. I feel the friction sway bar you are using is useless. I had one on our 2007 Jayco Hybrid and it made no difference in the way the trailer felt when towing. I always had the feeling the trailer was moving around back there. I even bought a 3/4 ton Dodge Ram and still could feel it moving around. I could even see it in the mirrors moving around. I think a lot of it was the torsion suspension and light duty 14" tires on the hybrid.

We eventually traded the hybrid in on our 26 BH and it towed straighter and better than the hybrid. I think due to being heavier as well as stronger tires and suspension. I then went to Tundra and with the P-rated tires and softer suspension, I could feel the trailer moving around again. Decided to break down and buy the best hitch on the market and got the ProPride 3P. Haven't looked back no matter the weather conditions.

That being said, changing to a different WDH WITH built-in sway control or going to a setup that eliminates sway (like the ProPride 3P or Hensley) will make your setup tow much better and calm your nerves. The hitch setup makes all the difference in the world.

ALJO · 04-09-2016, 08:33 AM

Lukenick1; Just relax and talk to your dealer if they can improve your setup. With all the many experts here it can be confusing. The Jay Feather you have is a light TT and your TV is heavy enough to handle it. Don't spend money on you really don't need. Your setup might need some adjusting to tune it up a bit. TV-TT combo's handle different than a truck by itself. Your dealer can take it for a spin to check how it handles. If your dealer did set it up with TT nose high then he should correct the problem.
On this forum we never see the real picture of the problem even if it is well explained.
A good visual by an expert in RV's or RVing is the best.
So lady don't panic it doesn't solve the problem.

Hohenwald48 · 04-09-2016, 08:44 AM

You will find many on here who are critical of the friction type sway controls. I've used them for years and have no problem with them. Almost all hitches with sway built in provide sway control via some kind of friction connection built in to the hitch. I do use two of the friction sway controls. More is always better than less.

From the picture (and it's really hard to tell from a pic) it looks like you might need to tighten your sway device a bit. I see no wear or marking on the slide bar. That may be because it's new or it may be because you don't have it set tight enough. There are several ways to adjust and you might want to read up on setting the sway control properly. Me, I just tighten it down a lot and try it. If that 's not enough I tighten it more. Others may have a more scientific method.

I think you are at a point where you really need to hook up and drag the rig to a CAT scale for some real weights. If you are transferring most of the front axle weight back to the front axle that's about all you can expect out of a WDH. CAT scale and gas to get there is a lot cheaper than a new hitch.

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 08:51 AM

Now I have a whole new problem, don't know what class hitch receiver was installed on my Tundra way back when. It is definitely NOT factory installed according to the vin number. If it's a class 3 isn't my TT too heavy for that hitch? Also when I got underneath there to see if I can find any info on the hitch I saw all the rust. Oh boy....a whole new can of worms now. I will attach some pics

Wish I had the owners manual.......

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALJO

Lukenick1; Just relax and talk to your dealer if they can improve your setup. With all the many experts here it can be confusing. The Jay Feather you have is a light TT and your TV is heavy enough to handle it. Don't spend money on you really don't need. Your setup might need some adjusting to tune it up a bit. TV-TT combo's handle different than a truck by itself. Your dealer can take it for a spin to check how it handles. If your dealer did set it up with TT nose high then he should correct the problem.
On this forum we never see the real picture of the problem even if it is well explained.
A good visual by an expert in RV's or RVing is the best.
So lady don't panic it doesn't solve the problem.

He did not set it up nose up its what naturally happened by going down one more link in the chains. If I go back to the 2nd link I should be level again but spring bars will be low to the ground again.
Damned if I do damned if I don't.

Hohenwald48 · 04-09-2016, 09:28 AM

On our recent trip from Nashville to San Antonio I stopped at a CG with a good level concrete pad. I'd never notice that my trailer appeared a little nose high so I measured from the frame to the ground. The front of the trailer was about 1.5" higher than the rear. I've towed like this for many miles (10K or more) and have had no problems.

However, because I've been involved in a discussion regarding nose high/low on another forum I decided to drop the hitch head by one hole (1.25") on the draw bar just to see what happened. I did no other adjustments. Only took about 30 minutes.

I towed all the way back from San Antonio to Nashville and could tell absolutely no difference with the new nose low attitude.

Now if you are many inches nose high or low it might make a difference. In my case it made no difference at all.

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hohenwald48

On our recent trip from Nashville to San Antonio I stopped at a CG with a good level concrete pad. I'd never notice that my trailer appeared a little nose high so I measured from the frame to the ground. The front of the trailer was about 1.5" higher than the rear. I've towed like this for many miles (10K or more) and have had no problems.

However, because I've been involved in a discussion regarding nose high/low on another forum I decided to drop the hitch head by one hole (1.25") on the draw bar just to see what happened. I did no other adjustments. Only took about 30 minutes.

I towed all the way back from San Antonio to Nashville and could tell absolutely no difference with the new nose low attitude.

Now if you are many inches nose high or low it might make a difference. In my case it made no difference at all.

Good to know......I will see what its like after I load it. Thanks

ALJO · 04-09-2016, 12:53 PM

I think if you put a top coupler on that Jay Feather it would solve a lot of problems in a hurry. My self I wouldn't hesitate to replace it. Couplers are only around 60 dollar. It would be my retired pleasure to put it on for you. You can use your standard 6" drop. Seeing that much rust on your TV chassis you must live in a coastal area.
My Jay Feather runs nice and level and has the overhead coupler on the first generation light weight frame with lots of clearance under the A-Frame. Even the spare tire hangs there.

Wireman · 04-09-2016, 02:47 PM

lucknic1, I'm not sure about that receiver hitch on your TV. I would think it's a class 3, possibly a class 4.

Do you know the manufacturer?

I would check with Toyota and see if a class 4 was available from the factory that year. If so, you could replace it for piece of mind.

Just don't like all that rust under there. Maybe replace the hardware if you don't want to change it out.

JMO, but I would go with a trunnion style with built in sway control, but it's your call.

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wireman

lucknic1, I'm not sure about that receiver hitch on your TV. I would think it's a class 3, possibly a class 4.

Do you know the manufacturer?

I would check with Toyota and see if a class 4 was available from the factory that year. If so, you could replace it for piece of mind.

Just don't like all that rust under there. Maybe replace the hardware if you don't want to change it out.

JMO, but I would go with a trunnion style with built in sway control, but it's your call.

If I knew the manufacturer I could identify which class it is. Wish I did. I did find a OEM hitch for my year on Ebay and it looks exact to the one I have so I am 95% sure its a Toyota hitch now. It would be class IV. Luckily the rust is surface rust so hubby is going to get under there with a wire brush and see what he can get off. The previous owner lived near the coast. Had it since day one so many years of salt damage under there.

lukenick1 · 04-09-2016, 03:54 PM

ALJO
I wish you could come change the coupler for me!

Paintinfool3 · 04-09-2016, 04:20 PM

I wouldn't worry as much about nose high as not enough weight on front wheels ... you could go one more link shorter and see what that does for the drivability of your truck and I would tighten the swaybar up more... I have used swaybars like that since I began and I haven't had any problems with them controlling sway

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