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Old 07-08-2016, 12:58 AM   #11
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Talking Jayfeather 29N Lift

3/16" c channel frame lowering brackets. Dexter axle tube with arch for strength, if I would have realized the tubes were arched I would have welded my cross members in 1/2" higher up the frame to allow the liner to go back in whole instead of in sections. Frame lowering brackets welded in place.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:40 PM   #12
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Wink Jayfeather 29N Lift

The front axle lift brackets are complete, now to prep all the areas and new metal for paint. This is not fun welding overhead in a twenty inch crawlspace with sixteen inches of clearance under the frame, especially when your a big guy like me 6'1" and 275lb.

I hope I get enough clearance for my sewer drain pipe!
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:56 PM   #13
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Cool Sewer Drain

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Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
Doboy Dawg

What year is your 29N? I bought a 2005 25Z last December and have the same problem with my sewer drain. On one recent trip I pulled into a gas station and the cap was on but when I arrived home the cap was missing. I think it came off when I pulled out of the gas station. I called Jayco about this problem and I was told the trailer was only to be towed on pavement. I called dexter axle and talked to them about there lift kits and I was told I needed to get the number off the tag they put on the axle. But like you my under belly is completely inclosed.
More than likely the ramp / dip at the business entrance, the one that 99% of business have so the rainwater can follow the curb down to the storm drain, caught it and knocked it off. I have replaced several caps that have been dragged across the pavement. I even have a small part of the lower side of the drain that has road rash from when I knocked the last cap off at a gas station in Pensacola! Gosh there is nothing like that grinding sound when the sewer drain hits then ten feet later the skid bars drag crunch! screeh! Concrete grinding, oh there goes another drain cap!

I'm going to solve that problem. My Jayfeather will be flying higher and will be sporting new socks and shoes. I think I'm going to strip all the old decals off and replace them with some different colors and better decal material. My best friend is in the decal and wrap business.
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:50 AM   #14
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I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:02 AM   #15
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Lift

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Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
That is why I added the box tubing across the frame. The frame is stronger now. I could have real simply just welded the axle flanges to be he frame and accomplished the lift, but the way I'm doing it the factory axles can be replaced by unbolting them and bolting in new ones.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:34 PM   #16
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

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Originally Posted by Doboy Dawg View Post
That is why I added the box tubing across the frame. The frame is stronger now. I could have real simply just welded the axle flanges to be he frame and accomplished the lift, but the way I'm doing it the factory axles can be replaced by unbolting them and bolting in new ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
That reply was from my so called smart phone, so much from auto spell correct. My frame is stamped pressed steel also. I researched the lift extensively before starting it. I wanted to use blocks but the way the axle mounting flanges are made and frame construction made that option difficult. If the frame would have been made like normal travel trailer frames I would have welded axle hangers and put leaf springs with new axles under the camper. Due to the "pressed steel C channel" construction and the outside flange mounts of the torsion axles I decided to relocate the axle by welding a sub frame to the frame along with additional cross member support.

This is my version of a lift for my camper and I'm simply posting it, (for informational purposes only), as an alternative to what Jayco offers as a lift for my camper; which is none.

I will bet the camper and my tow vehicle that my frame will be stronger than the original Jayco frame. It will also have a actual rear bumper attached to the frame.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:45 PM   #17
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Jayfeather 29N Lift

Finished welding in the lift brackets or axle lowering brackets? My loyal helper of 14 years stayed by my side all day. Her hips are getting bad and it is killing me cause I know it wont be long.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:01 PM   #18
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Smile Jayfeather 29N Lift

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
Why not show some pictures? I'm sure folks in Jaycoland would love to see some alternatives to tearing off sewer pipes on driveway entrances!

There was another poster whom is a machinist that did an awesome lift on his sewer dragger. His axle configuration was different than mine. I would have loved to have used 6061 billet aluminum blocks. I would have to welded a perch onto my axle tube for that to work and I was not too sure about welding on a rubber insert torsion tube!
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:11 PM   #19
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

Took a couple days off and resumed work on the camper. The first pic is of Ospho the best rust destroyer inhibitor I have found. I treat my old and new metal with it in preparation for paint. You have to get the loose rust off and then the acid in Ospho will rapidly oxidize and destroy the remaining rust and keep it from bleeding back through the paint. On new steel it will etch the mill scale sufficiently to paint over it without hours of sanding or grinding it off.

The second and third pictures are the receiver hitch sub-frame and hitch being built into the new rear "step" bumper to replace the non existent Jayco rear bumper.
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:27 PM   #20
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Cool Jayfeather axle lift

Ah the hidden cost, even with all the best safety gear money can buy I still managed to get a piece of metal in my right eye. Luckily it did not get embedded, I guess the safety shield slowed it down enough so it did not cut into the eye. I was able to flush my eye with water enough to get it out. It did manage to scratch the cornea, dang it. The eye doc says no welding for a few days.

Heck I've been getting rained out everyday anyway. It's been 95-98 degrees with 80% humidity every day this last couple weeks.
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