Jay Feather 29N Axle Lift

[wallacemf]

This might not apply or be too late for you, but I had a 2008 JayFeather 25F and there was a recall on mine and some other models. The wrong axles were put on at the factory, when we would hit a bump the tires would rub the top of the wheel wells.

The axles were replaced under warranty, and it was at least four inches higher when got it back.....

[Travisrda]

I will be watching this closely because I am thinking of doing the same thing to mine.

[Doboy Dawg]

My bird does not qualify for the recall the axles have plenty of travel room. They are simply slung three inches up into the frame lowering the trailer. This being my first camper I was niave about the drain lines. I learned it the hard way at CG hookups and dump stations that my camper was simply too low to work at.

I have most of my metal prepped for paint just trying to wait out a good dry day to paint it has been raining everyday.

[Wireman]

Doboy Dawg, looks like a lot of work. 1 question, would it have been feasible to buy 2 new leaf spring axles and weld spring perches to the frame and get even more clearance?

Since I'm not familiar with the frame layout, it may not have been doable or maybe even more work than what you have done so far.

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Wireman

Doboy Dawg, looks like a lot of work. 1 question, would it have been feasible to buy 2 new leaf spring axles and weld spring perches to the frame and get even more clearance?

Since I'm not familiar with the frame layout, it may not have been doable or maybe even more work than what you have done so far.

Leaf springs were not feasible due to lightweight frame construction. The lightweight C channel frame sections are also bolted together. The frame is not heavy enough steel to support leaf springs. With this type frame construction the torsion axles were the correct choice. They were simply too low to the ground. At best my sewer pipe was 2.5" above ground.

[Doboy Dawg]

Way to go Jayco, while painting my axles I discovered they are Dexter 3000 lb torsion axles. Thanks Jaycrap! Two 3000 lb axles in a camper with a listed weight of 6500 lbs!

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Doboy Dawg

Way to go Jayco, while painting my axles I discovered they are Dexter 3000 lb torsion axles. Thanks Jaycrap! Two 3000 lb axles in a camper with a listed weight of 6500 lbs!

Rusty, treated with Ospho, one coat self etching primer, one coat paint.

[Doboy Dawg]

This is what happens when you drive on salt treated roads, wire brush removing rust and Ospho treated rust killer. Will paint with caliper paint after a day of drying.

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Doboy Dawg

Rusty, treated with Ospho, one coat self etching primer, one coat paint.

Jayco 3000 lb axles in a 6500+ lb camper?

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Doboy Dawg

When Jayco put "NO STEP" on the rear bumper cover they were very serious! When I removed the cover to take out the last 29 screws, (joke), LOL holding the bottom liner up, I discovered there is "NO BUMPER" behind the bumper cover. I'm glad the NTSB doesn't require travel trailers to have rear crash protection because this might survive a rear impact from a golf cart driving in reverse. I guess the rear bumper was an option that original purchaser did not choose? There appear to be bolt holes at the rear of the frame where at least a piece of channel steel should have been bolted. The last frame crossmember is approximately 6" from the rear of the frame. The "plastic bumper cover" covers air. I'm going to fabricate a rear bumper and add a 2" receiver tube for a cargo hauler. I'll use the cargo hauler to haul the black water pump out tank and lawn chairs. I would not even consider triple towing due to the weak frame construction. I'm going to repaint the trim covers as they all faded really bad.

The making of a bumper and hitch where none existed. The decorative plastic bumper cover was severely faded. I'm going to try and paint it back a color of gold that is close to what it appeared to be originally.

[ALJO]

RV mfg's getting away with this by adding the TW to the GVWR
2x 3000 lbs. + 700 lbs. = 6700 lbs. GVWR = 6500 lbs.

Adding all the steel to the 29N cuts down on the payload, which is already low on this unit.

Welding on those Ultra Frames isn't a good idea, what if something goes wrong down the road. USA insurance companies eat you for lunch.

I have seen at a welding shop a Norco Ultra Light frame on a Jay Feather with regular 3500 lbs. spring axles on a sub-frame bolted to the existing frame. They left the existing mounting tube in place but just cutting off the axle spindles. It had to be recertified for a higher GVWR.

Seems to me Jayco was better off to install the 3500 lbs. torsion axles and just below the frame instead of inserting it in the frame. Overall it would have been more suitable for this TT.

Good luck wit your endeavors!

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by ALJO

RV mfg's getting away with this by adding the TW to the GVWR
2x 3000 lbs. + 700 lbs. = 6700 lbs. GVWR = 6500 lbs.

Adding all the steel to the 29N cuts down on the payload, which is already low on this unit.

Welding on those Ultra Frames isn't a good idea, what if something goes wrong down the road. USA insurance companies eat you for lunch.

I have seen at a welding shop a Norco Ultra Light frame on a Jay Feather with regular 3500 lbs. spring axles on a sub-frame bolted to the existing frame. They left the existing mounting tube in place but just cutting off the axle spindles. It had to be recertified for a higher GVWR.

Seems to me Jayco was better off to install the 3500 lbs. torsion axles and just below the frame instead of inserting it in the frame. Overall it would have been more suitable for this TT.

Good luck wit your endeavors!

I've added 150 lbs. of steel and I'm removing approximately 100 lbs. of crappy Jayco furniture so I don't think 50 lbs. is going to be a big difference.

I'd be glad for any insurance agent, DOT employee, highway patrol, ASTME mechanic or welder, travel trailer mfg., or any other state, local, federal, or NTSB to inspect my work.

[Doboy Dawg]

starting to reassemble restored parts

[Lostone]

Originally Posted by rodandmir

I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.

You wouldn't happen to have blue prints for your plates would you?

Also I agree with someone from above you NEVER EVER want to weld on the BAL Ultra Frames (or any stamped frame). I promise you they will crack at the edge of the heat zones. There's a really good reason that they use huck bolts on these things.

[ALJO]

Lostone: you don't have to do any welding. Jayco had at one time a kit available but not anymore (I think it was a recall).
First remove the axles.
Just get 1-1/2 x 1-1/ 2" square tubing which will cover both axles on one side and bolt it to the underside of the existing frame. Do the same on the other side. Drill new axle frame plate holes and re-install the Torflex-axles. You might want to put in extra light duty cross member(s). Give Norco a call they might be able to ship a couple. I have the picture of them (can send by email).

[Lostone]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Lostone: you don't have to do any welding. Jayco had at one time a kit available but not anymore (I think it was a recall).
First remove the axles.
Just get 1-1/2 x 1-1/ 2" square tubing which will cover both axles on one side and bolt it to the underside of the existing frame. Do the same on the other side. Drill new axle frame plate holes and re-install the Torflex-axles. You might want to put in extra light duty cross member(s). Give Norco a call they might be able to ship a couple. I have the picture of them (can send by email).

I'm not sure how that will work with Norco bracketed axles as the brackets have dimpled holes that align with dimples in the frame. Those dimples are important as they are there to tie the parts together. I've yet to see anyone who has made any lift plates that take that into account. If Jayco had repaired a Norco framed trailer I owned like that I'd asked them how they like it as now they own it. I would refuse the repair. Leaving that gaping hole above the axle would knock almost all of the load capacity from the frame. I would love to see some pictures never less.

Worse case, I can order to bare axles that start at 45° down. That is about 2" +/- worth of lift. They run about $250 axle. I also have Al-Ko axles.

After seeing some of the ways that people go about trying to lift these that it it only a matter of time before they have a catastrophic failure.

[Lostone]

And I forgot too add if you want any more proof as to why you don't weld on stamped frames, look at the issues that Lippert had with there frames. Most of the cracks and failures are at the welds.

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Lostone

You wouldn't happen to have blue prints for your plates would you?

Also I agree with someone from above you NEVER EVER want to weld on the BAL Ultra Frames (or any stamped frame). I promise you they will crack at the edge of the heat zones. There's a really good reason that they use huck bolts on these things.

Are you a metallurgist? I'm not but I do know enough about welding high tensile steel and I challenge you to a bend or break test anyday. I'll give you the sledgehammer and or jackhammer to try and break my welds on this trailer!

I used a 70,000 lb tensile strength electrode with the correct heat the welds have very good penetration. I wore out two red iron oxide grinding wheels cleaning up a couple of areas of spatter and rounding a couple of corners.

If you don't have anything positive or constructive to say please stay off this thread. I have plenty of successful stories of welding stuff that most folks think can't be welded. I have had some failures also, but I can assure you this will not be one of them. I have already tested the welds on vertical and horizontal strength, the frame will bend with my welds.

[ALJO]

Lostone; Because it is a higher strength steel you don't want to weld to change the structure of the steel. On those frames you bolt whatever modification. The Dexter axle brackets are flat surfaced. Dexter has a kit available (K71-707-02 $170.00) but you still have to drill new holes in the BAL frame.

Doboy Dawg; Time will tell in your situation. If someone have suggestions or stated facts don't get an the offensive. I think you did a good job and put a lot of work into extra re-enforcement from the frame collapsing. I have pictures from collapsed frame where they had to put a new cross member in. So you did it at forehand. With correct welding material and heat I wouldn't worry about your situation. It seems like you are a person who wants to do a good job. The kit what Jayco had sent out on the recall in 2007 or 2008 did consist of the Dexter brackets.
Enjoy the camping trips and post us how the frame is performing.

#10 Torflex Lift Kit (K71-707-02)
Price: $170.94






#10 Torflex Lift Kit K71-707-02
Tandem #10 Torflex Lift Kit (K71-707-02)
The lift kit will raise the units frame height 2 5/8".
This kit will only work on a #10 Torflex axle that has been mounted using the side mounting axle system option. Will not work on top mounted Torflex axles.
The kit has enough parts for a Tandem axle unit.To determine the bracket hole dimensions that the kit has click here.
Caution: This lift kit can't be used with 3" tall brackets.
(4) 003-377-02 Frame Spacer #10 (2 5/8" Tall)
(24) 005-111-00 Washer
(16) 006-126-00 5/8"-18 Hex Lock Nut
(16) 007-177-00 5/8"-18 Screw Hex Cap Bolt 1.50" Long

[Lostone]

ALJO:
I still don't think those will work Norco bracketed axles like Doboy Dawg and I have. Norco/Bal frames are supplied to manufactures as kits. The manufacture huck bolts them together and supply the axle manufacturer with the Norco brackets to be welded on to there specs.

The Norco brackets look like this:



If they are using them with Norco brackets, I would love pictures to see how they were mounting them.