Jay Feather 29N Axle Lift

[ALJO]

I have a whole bunch of Pictures from damage frames to how they fixed things up.
Did you see the brackets what Dexter has in the kits. They are simple U-channel probably a foot long. I still would put a plate over the hole where the existing axle has been. Doboy Dawg did do a nice job welding a plate in the hole. You even can get from Norco cross members but I'm sure they are expensive.
Just search the web for the first generation Norco Ball Frame you'll find lots of info.
It is a good frame but the RV manufactures did cut a few corners.

[Lostone]

Originally Posted by ALJO

I have a whole bunch of Pictures from damage frames to how they fixed things up.
Did you see the brackets what Dexter has in the kits. They are simple U-channel probably a foot long. I still would put a plate over the hole where the existing axle has been. Doboy Dawg did do a nice job welding a plate in the hole. You even can get from Norco cross members but I'm sure they are expensive.
Just search the web for the first generation Norco Ball Frame you'll find lots of info.

I'm quite familiar with the brackets. I just now order 20 foot sections of the same size channel for less then 1/3 of the cost of the kit and make my own.

I have repaired several of "pre-cross member" frames. I too stopped buying that kit also after I saw what it was and just used a brake to bend my own and dimple die cut holes just like there's to save a little weight and strengthen it. From the ones I've seen and or repaired, I don't think it's so much a bad frame design as that there being overloaded and/or there having rearend drags. Last one I saw, the owner put wheels on the rear because he was scraping the dump and busting the valves. He put so much side load on the trailer and frame trying to turn it while backing it in the driveway while it was on those wheels that it totaled the trailer. He told me that all four tires where off the ground when it let loose so you can imagine the amount of load that was on the rear of the frame. They should of never made any of these low riding frames on trailers longer the 23' if you ask me.

I'm to the point of making my own plates that will address the counter sunk locating holes that are in the Norco brackets. I have tried everywhere to find a one of those brackets to use as template. Norco tells me to talk to the manufacture, the manufacture tells me to talked to my dealer, and the local dealer (who doesnt care much for me) is useless. I've got contacts that have more pull then me that have tried and the best we can do is find new 45° down axles. I was hoping that somewhere, someone had made a drop bracket that mounts just like the manufacture mounted it. A even called Al-Ko who made the axles for Dutchman (it's a Aerolite) but there N.A. division was bought out by Dexter so they told me to contact them.

As a total side note. It seem that Norco had planed to offer the UltraFrame with leaf springs or torsion axles. The mounts huck bolted onto the frame. I've never seen any. Maybe they didn't offer them for a reason. Here's a picture from there patent application for the trailer frame. I will love to just buy a few of those #22 in there.

[ALJO]

Lostone;
With that Norco spring design you have to have 3 cross members close to the bracket points. As on regular spring design the spring is mounted under the frame.
Norco did wanted to built a low design with springs. But I take the Torflex any time over springs. It is a more comfortable ride. No wonder that's all they use in Europe.
The only problem you can only go to a one or two axle design.

On a 31 ft. frame you can't lift the wheels with a pivot point in the back of the TT. I have HD swivel casters but I still have to watch to go slow and not lifting my axles. Here in Canada in the country side the gas stations ramps are smooth and I'm not going off-road to much. But I'm still thinking in raising approx. 3". Have the axle tubing under the frame. It are only 3000 lbs. axles and might order 3500 lbs. Then I can go also to 15" tires. In the lite weight class they go to lite with the axles. A 198RD had even 3500 lbs. axles with GVWR of 5900 lbs.

I think just get your own materials and use your own design you think will fit you. Buying parts after is expensive from the mfg. and is not worth it.

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by Lostone

I'm quite familiar with the brackets. I just now order 20 foot sections of the same size channel for less then 1/3 of the cost of the kit and make my own.

I have repaired several of "pre-cross member" frames. I too stopped buying that kit also after I saw what it was and just used a brake to bend my own and dimple die cut holes just like there's to save a little weight and strengthen it. From the ones I've seen and or repaired, I don't think it's so much a bad frame design as that there being overloaded and/or there having rearend drags. Last one I saw, the owner put wheels on the rear because he was scraping the dump and busting the valves. He put so much side load on the trailer and frame trying to turn it while backing it in the driveway while it was on those wheels that it totaled the trailer. He told me that all four tires where off the ground when it let loose so you can imagine the amount of load that was on the rear of the frame. They should of never made any of these low riding frames on trailers longer the 23' if you ask me.

I'm to the point of making my own plates that will address the counter sunk locating holes that are in the Norco brackets. I have tried everywhere to find a one of those brackets to use as template. Norco tells me to talk to the manufacture, the manufacture tells me to talked to my dealer, and the local dealer (who doesnt care much for me) is useless. I've got contacts that have more pull then me that have tried and the best we can do is find new 45° down axles. I was hoping that somewhere, someone had made a drop bracket that mounts just like the manufacture mounted it. A even called Al-Ko who made the axles for Dutchman (it's a Aerolite) but there N.A. division was bought out by Dexter so they told me to contact them.

As a total side note. It seem that Norco had planed to offer the UltraFrame with leaf springs or torsion axles. The mounts huck bolted onto the frame. I've never seen any. Maybe they didn't offer them for a reason. Here's a picture from there patent application for the trailer frame. I will love to just buy a few of those #22 in there.

I simply used plastic corrugated sign board for patterns and templates. As far as the dimple issues, I recessed my lower brackets 3/8" the depth of the dimple. I filled the dimple in the frame with grade 8 washers.. I replaced all the Jayco or Dexter grade 5 bolts with new grade 8 bolts. All bolted surfaces are solidly joined and bolted with 1/2" grade 8 bolts with grade 8 flat and lock washers.

All metals were rust prepped and painted.

[Earidgeway]

Just bought my first trailer an 05 jayco jay feather 29y lgt. First time out i drug the tail quite a few times due to the low ride height (Yes, I'm towing it level)Looking into a torsion axle lift but can't find specs on the factory axle. What brand torsion axle came on it stock? Should i just make my own out of rectangle stock or is there a kit?

[ALJO]

The Dexter Torflex Axle is used on the 2005 Jay Feather 29Y LGT. Dexter still sells a lift kit, just go to their website. Another choice is get the material and DIY. So far I put HD casters on the backend of the frame which makes the drag easier when turning on the same time. This fall I going to lift mine. The Torflex Axle serves as a cross member so you might want to install a couple light metal cross member within the frame. Norco doesn't sell them anymore for the first generation.
The axle tubing itself is 2 - 9/16"

[Earidgeway]

Looked up the kits. What concerns me is that the frame is knotched for the axel and the kit appears to be just blocks. Leading me to believe you'd have to leave another knotch for the axel to go into.

[sawdust]

I have a 2005 Jay Feather 25z. My trailer uses the same Dexter Torflex axles as your 29n. My problem is the low sewer outlet. So far I have only unscrewed the sewer cap so I carry extra caps with me. I have called Jayco tech support and was informed that there is no lift kit for these axles. I also called Dexter axle and had there rep look at the pictures in this post and was informed that norco brackets were used on these axles and that the lift kit they offer will not work with these brackets. I do not weld so to do the lift that is being done in this post would be very costly. I refuel at truck stops while on the road and when the trailer is disconnected at the campground. Best of luck with your new to you trailer.

[SICARIO]

I'm working in a lift kit for norco bracket dexter axles. I have the parts being cut now and will update how it works

These will be complete bolt on, and only drill two holes.

[JeffB1]

How did the mod Go sicario? I have a Alko frame,but i believe the bracket bolt spacing is the same. Do you happen to have the dimensions and specs for the bracket? Thanks...

[SICARIO]

I should get the brackets tomorrow and will hopefully do the lift this weekend. If it works I'm happy to send you the dimensions or a .dxf file (used to program the CNC cutter)

[JeffB1]

Great! thanks. I'll be curious to know how the install process goes too.

email is jryanbuellesq@hotmail.com

[ALJO]

Sicario; any updates on your installation. It would be interesting to hear Howell those brackets perform for you.

[Atlee]

It's a shame that any TT, made by any company, need to be re-engineered to make them road usable.

[SICARIO]

I got the brackets in, but I just got back from a trip and and prepping for another next week. As soon as I get back I'll likely do the install. They turned out good though.

Now I just need to pick up some new fasteners and some 3/16" plate.

[charles_cincy]

Originally Posted by SICARIO

I got the brackets in, but I just got back from a trip and and prepping for another next week. As soon as I get back I'll likely do the install. They turned out good though.

Now I just need to pick up some new fasteners and some 3/16" plate.

I'd also like to hear how it goes...

I have a 2011 x23B with the Norco brackets that I need lifted.

How did you get these brackets?

Thanks!

[ALJO]

Started on the 4 - 9/16 axle lift on the 2005 Jay Feather LTG 29Y. I choose the 2" tubular sub frame method as this made the existing structure stronger. I have Dexter Torflex 3500 lbs. axles. with 10 x 2 - 1/4 brakes. I also have a choice to go with 15" rims. I will do a write up with pictures when done.

[ALJO]

So the axle lift is all done and will do a write up with the pictures. Everything went well.
I also adjusted my slight out and re installed the bottom kitchen cabinets proper so I don't slide on the vinyl. I have 1" clearance under the bottom cabinets. I also noticed the sag in the upper cabinets which also made a sag in the slide-out roof. I installed brick mold against the wall behind the couch and a very heavy duty L-Bracket which holds up the cabinets and roof part. At least it has good support halfway. Replaced the inverter with a 3000 watt one. Bolts in the fridge where rusty so I cleaned and painted them. The from the overhead coupler I made a underslung coupler because when you raise 4 9/16" and move the coupler under the A-Frame (4 7/16" height) it made more sense. How lower your hookup how safer the pulling. The same is for: how closer your hookup to your rear axle how less the sway will be.

[SICARIO]

Originally Posted by charles_cincy

I'd also like to hear how it goes...



I have a 2011 x23B with the Norco brackets that I need lifted.



How did you get these brackets?



Thanks!

Here is the quick write up for the lift which I just installed. I work with a bunch of local fabricators for work and had one of them cut the brackets for me.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...19h-49307.html

[ALJO]

The 4 9/16" axle lift on the Jay Feather LTG 29Y - SE is done and took me about 40 hours.

I took the sub-frame method because of the weak structure of the existing frame after the axles are removed.
The Dexter Torflex axles are used also as cross members of the frame structure and are 3500 lbs Axles with 2 9/16" tubing and 10 x 2 1/4" brakes.

Lift Trailer high enough and install proper support. Remove underbelly (cut along first forward cross member) and fold back out of the way. Remove axle hubs and brake assembly (mark them so they will return in the same place).
Remove the axle bracket bolts (1/2") and lower the axle (but leave them there).

Material to build the sub-frame:

2 psc. 2" Square Tubing (1/8) 42" long
2 psc. 2" Square Tubing (1/8) 69 1/2" long
8 psc. 2 1/2" x 3" - 1/4" Flat Iron
4 psc. 1" x 1/8" Flat Iron 42" Long
10 psc. 3/8" x 1 1/4 Grade 8 Bolts-LockNuts-Washers

Material to extent the axle bracket:

4 psc. 2 1/2" x 6" - 1/4 Flat Iron

Material cost CAD 97.00

First is to prepare the 42" long 2" Tubing so it can be bolted on the existing High Tensile Strength Frame.
I used the 1" x 1/8 Flat Iron 42" long and put it on the 2" Tubing and drilled 5x 1/8 pilot hole 7/8" from the edge of the tubing. Note the flat iron is centered on the 7/8 line. Do this for the other 42" Tubing too and mark them left or right and a forward mark. Then weld the 8 psc. 2 1/2 x 3" -1/4 Flat Iron to the bottom of the Tubing [see pictures] (be sure to stay 3/16 of the edge for the dimple in the axle bracket).

Now take the flat iron to the frame and clamp it on the bottom of the frame on the 7/8 line and drill the pilot holes.
Do this on both sides of the frame. After this you can drill 1/2" holes in the frame and 9/16" holes in the tubing.
Drill 3/8 holes in the Flat Iron and weld the bolts to the Flat Iron. Cut the 3/8 center bolt 1/2" shorter otherwise it will interfere with the huckbolt plate.
Put the Flat Iron with the welded bolts in to the 42" tubing and keep it in place with a piece of wood as a wedge.
Then bolt it on the Frame on each side (not permanent yet). Next slide the 69 1/2" tubing through the existing frame holes and raise the axles till they hit the tubing. Line the axle bracket up with the existing holes (might need an extra jack for tilting) Drill the bottom holes of the axle bracket and install the existing 1/2" bolt.
Now center the 69 1/2" tubing in the existing frame holes and tack weld front and back.

Remove the axles and remove the sub-frame and finish all the welding on the sub-frame. Also weld the 2 psc. 1" x 42"-1/8 Flat Iron for the underbelly to fasten.
Weld the 4 psc. 2 1/2 x 6" -1/4" Flat Iron on top of the axles brackets (Caution! - cool the bracket regular during welding). Drill the 1/2" holes as per drawing.

After all this is done you can exercise the painting of all the parts. And wait at least 24 hours for assembly.

Assembly: Install the sub-frame and tighten the 3/8" bolts to 80 lbs. Install a flat washer between the frame and locknut.
Next raise the axles and bolt them with the bottom holes in place (be sure the axles brackets are inline with the holes and the view is correct. Drill the top 1/2" holes and install the bolts. Torque to 80-90 Ft-lbs.

I installed a 2 x 4 by the forward cross member and in between the axles to fasten the underbelly. But you can also use iron. Also anything else you want to do, do it now when everything is open. I had R12 insulation installed a year ago and also removed the FW-tank close to the axles. Also the suction line and FW-tank are heat taped for winter use.
Also installed a 1 1/4" plastic pipe from behind the rear axle (area of electrical panel) to the front in case for auxiliary wiring.

If you have an underbelly: Cut the underbelly material so it will be tight against the sub-frame and fasten it with the same fasteners. And caulk everything waterproof. Used tape where the cut was made.

Next assemble the brake assembly and hubs and wheels.

The coupler I moved from overhead to under-slung. The A-Frame is 4 7/16 high and the lift was 4 9/16 so that is with in specs.