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Old 07-30-2016, 01:30 PM   #31
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RV mfg's getting away with this by adding the TW to the GVWR
2x 3000 lbs. + 700 lbs. = 6700 lbs. GVWR = 6500 lbs.

Adding all the steel to the 29N cuts down on the payload, which is already low on this unit.

Welding on those Ultra Frames isn't a good idea, what if something goes wrong down the road. USA insurance companies eat you for lunch.

I have seen at a welding shop a Norco Ultra Light frame on a Jay Feather with regular 3500 lbs. spring axles on a sub-frame bolted to the existing frame. They left the existing mounting tube in place but just cutting off the axle spindles. It had to be recertified for a higher GVWR.

Seems to me Jayco was better off to install the 3500 lbs. torsion axles and just below the frame instead of inserting it in the frame. Overall it would have been more suitable for this TT.

Good luck wit your endeavors!
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:48 PM   #32
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Cool Jayfeather Axles

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALJO View Post
RV mfg's getting away with this by adding the TW to the GVWR
2x 3000 lbs. + 700 lbs. = 6700 lbs. GVWR = 6500 lbs.

Adding all the steel to the 29N cuts down on the payload, which is already low on this unit.

Welding on those Ultra Frames isn't a good idea, what if something goes wrong down the road. USA insurance companies eat you for lunch.

I have seen at a welding shop a Norco Ultra Light frame on a Jay Feather with regular 3500 lbs. spring axles on a sub-frame bolted to the existing frame. They left the existing mounting tube in place but just cutting off the axle spindles. It had to be recertified for a higher GVWR.

Seems to me Jayco was better off to install the 3500 lbs. torsion axles and just below the frame instead of inserting it in the frame. Overall it would have been more suitable for this TT.

Good luck wit your endeavors!
I've added 150 lbs. of steel and I'm removing approximately 100 lbs. of crappy Jayco furniture so I don't think 50 lbs. is going to be a big difference.

I'd be glad for any insurance agent, DOT employee, highway patrol, ASTME mechanic or welder, travel trailer mfg., or any other state, local, federal, or NTSB to inspect my work.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:25 PM   #33
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Wink Jayco Lift

starting to reassemble restored parts
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:57 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
You wouldn't happen to have blue prints for your plates would you?

Also I agree with someone from above you NEVER EVER want to weld on the BAL Ultra Frames (or any stamped frame). I promise you they will crack at the edge of the heat zones. There's a really good reason that they use huck bolts on these things.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:25 PM   #35
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Lostone: you don't have to do any welding. Jayco had at one time a kit available but not anymore (I think it was a recall).
First remove the axles.
Just get 1-1/2 x 1-1/ 2" square tubing which will cover both axles on one side and bolt it to the underside of the existing frame. Do the same on the other side. Drill new axle frame plate holes and re-install the Torflex-axles. You might want to put in extra light duty cross member(s). Give Norco a call they might be able to ship a couple. I have the picture of them (can send by email).
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:30 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by ALJO View Post
Lostone: you don't have to do any welding. Jayco had at one time a kit available but not anymore (I think it was a recall).
First remove the axles.
Just get 1-1/2 x 1-1/ 2" square tubing which will cover both axles on one side and bolt it to the underside of the existing frame. Do the same on the other side. Drill new axle frame plate holes and re-install the Torflex-axles. You might want to put in extra light duty cross member(s). Give Norco a call they might be able to ship a couple. I have the picture of them (can send by email).
I'm not sure how that will work with Norco bracketed axles as the brackets have dimpled holes that align with dimples in the frame. Those dimples are important as they are there to tie the parts together. I've yet to see anyone who has made any lift plates that take that into account. If Jayco had repaired a Norco framed trailer I owned like that I'd asked them how they like it as now they own it. I would refuse the repair. Leaving that gaping hole above the axle would knock almost all of the load capacity from the frame. I would love to see some pictures never less.

Worse case, I can order to bare axles that start at 45 down. That is about 2" +/- worth of lift. They run about $250 axle. I also have Al-Ko axles.

After seeing some of the ways that people go about trying to lift these that it it only a matter of time before they have a catastrophic failure.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:00 AM   #37
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And I forgot too add if you want any more proof as to why you don't weld on stamped frames, look at the issues that Lippert had with there frames. Most of the cracks and failures are at the welds.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:02 AM   #38
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You wouldn't happen to have blue prints for your plates would you?

Also I agree with someone from above you NEVER EVER want to weld on the BAL Ultra Frames (or any stamped frame). I promise you they will crack at the edge of the heat zones. There's a really good reason that they use huck bolts on these things.
Are you a metallurgist? I'm not but I do know enough about welding high tensile steel and I challenge you to a bend or break test anyday. I'll give you the sledgehammer and or jackhammer to try and break my welds on this trailer!

I used a 70,000 lb tensile strength electrode with the correct heat the welds have very good penetration. I wore out two red iron oxide grinding wheels cleaning up a couple of areas of spatter and rounding a couple of corners.

If you don't have anything positive or constructive to say please stay off this thread. I have plenty of successful stories of welding stuff that most folks think can't be welded. I have had some failures also, but I can assure you this will not be one of them. I have already tested the welds on vertical and horizontal strength, the frame will bend with my welds.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:15 AM   #39
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Lostone; Because it is a higher strength steel you don't want to weld to change the structure of the steel. On those frames you bolt whatever modification. The Dexter axle brackets are flat surfaced. Dexter has a kit available (K71-707-02 $170.00) but you still have to drill new holes in the BAL frame.

Doboy Dawg; Time will tell in your situation. If someone have suggestions or stated facts don't get an the offensive. I think you did a good job and put a lot of work into extra re-enforcement from the frame collapsing. I have pictures from collapsed frame where they had to put a new cross member in. So you did it at forehand. With correct welding material and heat I wouldn't worry about your situation. It seems like you are a person who wants to do a good job. The kit what Jayco had sent out on the recall in 2007 or 2008 did consist of the Dexter brackets.
Enjoy the camping trips and post us how the frame is performing.

#10 Torflex Lift Kit (K71-707-02)
Price: $170.94






#10 Torflex Lift Kit K71-707-02
Tandem #10 Torflex Lift Kit (K71-707-02)
The lift kit will raise the units frame height 2 5/8".
This kit will only work on a #10 Torflex axle that has been mounted using the side mounting axle system option. Will not work on top mounted Torflex axles.
The kit has enough parts for a Tandem axle unit.To determine the bracket hole dimensions that the kit has click here.
Caution: This lift kit can't be used with 3" tall brackets.
(4) 003-377-02 Frame Spacer #10 (2 5/8" Tall)
(24) 005-111-00 Washer
(16) 006-126-00 5/8"-18 Hex Lock Nut
(16) 007-177-00 5/8"-18 Screw Hex Cap Bolt 1.50" Long
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:02 AM   #40
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ALJO:
I still don't think those will work Norco bracketed axles like Doboy Dawg and I have. Norco/Bal frames are supplied to manufactures as kits. The manufacture huck bolts them together and supply the axle manufacturer with the Norco brackets to be welded on to there specs.

The Norco brackets look like this:



If they are using them with Norco brackets, I would love pictures to see how they were mounting them.
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