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Old 05-09-2016, 02:02 PM   #1
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Jay Feather 29N Axle Lift

Has anyone tried to lift the axles on the 29' Jay Feather?
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:44 PM   #2
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Axle Lift Jayco 29 N

I'm in the process of lifting mine now. I've had it with the low sewer drain and dragging the road every time I pull into a business.

I've searched and read numerous websites about what appears to be the most common complaint with the Jayfeather.

It is so common Jayco offered a lift kit for the year model following mine. I contacted Jayco and asked if the kit would fit mine, no was the answer. I've read where several people paid welding shops and machine shops to fabricate lifts for the camper.

I will post pics of the process after I decide which photo url to use. It is not an easy process. My camper has a complete liner for the bottom. I was going to remove it completely until I discovered that would require removing all the propane gas lines too.

I cut the liner just in front of the axles and removed the rear half. This liner holds all the heat ducts and wiring up. There are 1" angle iron cross braces about every 6-8 feet. The liner is screwed to those cross pieces. I will be adding more to my camper.

When I replace the liner I will place a strip of sheet metal over the joint.

The axles on mine are Dexter torsion axles. I will be adding 3" of lift because my sewer pipe is 2.5" off the road stock. I bought a dump tank to use at campgrounds without full hookups. I can't even dump into the tank because the flange on it is 1.5" above my drain.
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:14 PM   #3
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Lift Kit

Doboy Dawg

What year is your 29N? I bought a 2005 25Z last December and have the same problem with my sewer drain. On one recent trip I pulled into a gas station and the cap was on but when I arrived home the cap was missing. I think it came off when I pulled out of the gas station. I called Jayco about this problem and I was told the trailer was only to be towed on pavement. I called dexter axle and talked to them about there lift kits and I was told I needed to get the number off the tag they put on the axle. But like you my under belly is completely inclosed.
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:20 PM   #4
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

I cant remember if it is an 03 or 06. Jayco will give you an answer for everything. How many campgrounds are completely paved? How many business entrances have sloped drive entrances?

Bottom line is in their, Jayco, quest for ultra light feather weight they built a camper too low to the ground, no way around that. I'm trying to post pics now and am having a heck of a time. I dont have these problems with pics on other boards?
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Old 06-26-2016, 01:54 PM   #5
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Jayfeather 29N Lift

29N[IMG] [IMG]Finally was able to load some pics. I have the camper frame sitting on top of two concrete blocks and a 2x6. I have six of these piers like a mobile home setup to allow minimum room underneath to access and work with. The frame gets its lateral strength from the axles. I'm going to weld in some additional box tubing for lateral strength.

These pics are for informational purposes only, if you choose to copy my mods, you do so at your own risk. My camper is long since out of Jayco factory warranty.

I read of a shop that lifted one for $500, I can tell you that would be the material cost alone. I would not do it for $500, I have $250 in steel and I'm just getting started.
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Old 06-26-2016, 02:44 PM   #6
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

The first pic loaded upside down, that is the view of the ducts and wiring harness from the rear of the camper forward with the liner removed. Second pic just turn your head from upside down sideways LOL. The axle slots have plate welded in them now. The top axle flange bolt holes will be lowered three inches, then additional frame rail will be added to catch the lower flange bolts. I'm adding 2"x2" box tubing across the frame to increase the strength lost from the axle.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:57 PM   #7
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Lift Kit

Thanks for the pictures. They are a great help.

When I talked to the people at Dexter they informed me that on some axles Jayco supplied them with a bracket and dexter welded it on for Jayco. I believe the bracket in your pictures is that special bracket. I looked at my set up and it is the same as yours.

It looks like you can do the work your self so that will save you some money. I can't do the work myself so it is going to be expensive.

Please keep posting pictures. They are a great help.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:41 PM   #8
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Jayco 29N Lift

When Jayco put "NO STEP" on the rear bumper cover they were very serious! When I removed the cover to take out the last 29 screws, (joke), LOL holding the bottom liner up, I discovered there is "NO BUMPER" behind the bumper cover. I'm glad the NTSB doesn't require travel trailers to have rear crash protection because this might survive a rear impact from a golf cart driving in reverse. I guess the rear bumper was an option that original purchaser did not choose? There appear to be bolt holes at the rear of the frame where at least a piece of channel steel should have been bolted. The last frame crossmember is approximately 6" from the rear of the frame. The "plastic bumper cover" covers air. I'm going to fabricate a rear bumper and add a 2" receiver tube for a cargo hauler. I'll use the cargo hauler to haul the black water pump out tank and lawn chairs. I would not even consider triple towing due to the weak frame construction. I'm going to repaint the trim covers as they all faded really bad.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:00 AM   #9
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Cool Jayco 29N Lift

Welded in additional frame crossmembers today and repaired a couple of mistakes I made. One bracket I made warped the frame from welding without cross support, my fault from getting in a hurry! First two pics loaded sideways turn your head or laptop and enjoy, I'm done trying to rotate and post! Some rotate, some don't! I think Bill Gates hates Apple and Adobe!

That is a ceramic fiberglass welding blanket wrapped around the 12v and 120v wiring to protect it from the sparks and heat!

Oh yeah and that Jayco/ chrome wheel is rusted really bad on the rear side, all four of them are. They are also rusted on the chrome side, they look like crap. I have new aluminum rims and new tires ordered. I'll top that off with a serious cleaning wax and roof seal!
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:43 PM   #10
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

Progress is slow it has been hot enough to fry eggs on the driveway and the humidity is horrible. The second pic should be first showing the 3" of drop in the top axle flange bolt holes in the frame. At least Jayco used some high quality steel in the frame construction. It is light but is a high tensil strength steel, tough to drill. The first pic is with the axle temporarily installed to get measurements for lift blocks, which will be 4" more frame welded onto the bottom of the existing frame. This will catch the lower axle flange bolts.

This has been a trial and error correction project. I did not realize the Dexter torsion axle tubes are arched upward. After I bolted the axle back in place the top of the axle cross tube is within an 1/8" of my 2"x2" box tube cross frame reinforcement. This will not allow the bottom liner to slip back over the torsion axle tube. I'm going to have to weld in more liner support angle iron and install the liner back in four pieces instead of two. If I would have known this I would have welded the box tubing 1/2" higher up the frame. Oh well if anybody ever needs to access the underside it will be easier for them instead of having to remove the whole liner!

I'm still not thrilled with finding out I don't have a rear bumper. The plastic crap cap which is faded real bad is a bumper cover that covers the fact there is NO REAR BUMPER! NO STEP! NO JOKE! When I finish there will be a rear bumper that can be stepped ON!
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:58 AM   #11
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Talking Jayfeather 29N Lift

3/16" c channel frame lowering brackets. Dexter axle tube with arch for strength, if I would have realized the tubes were arched I would have welded my cross members in 1/2" higher up the frame to allow the liner to go back in whole instead of in sections. Frame lowering brackets welded in place.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:40 PM   #12
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Wink Jayfeather 29N Lift

The front axle lift brackets are complete, now to prep all the areas and new metal for paint. This is not fun welding overhead in a twenty inch crawlspace with sixteen inches of clearance under the frame, especially when your a big guy like me 6'1" and 275lb.

I hope I get enough clearance for my sewer drain pipe!
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:56 PM   #13
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Cool Sewer Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
Doboy Dawg

What year is your 29N? I bought a 2005 25Z last December and have the same problem with my sewer drain. On one recent trip I pulled into a gas station and the cap was on but when I arrived home the cap was missing. I think it came off when I pulled out of the gas station. I called Jayco about this problem and I was told the trailer was only to be towed on pavement. I called dexter axle and talked to them about there lift kits and I was told I needed to get the number off the tag they put on the axle. But like you my under belly is completely inclosed.
More than likely the ramp / dip at the business entrance, the one that 99% of business have so the rainwater can follow the curb down to the storm drain, caught it and knocked it off. I have replaced several caps that have been dragged across the pavement. I even have a small part of the lower side of the drain that has road rash from when I knocked the last cap off at a gas station in Pensacola! Gosh there is nothing like that grinding sound when the sewer drain hits then ten feet later the skid bars drag crunch! screeh! Concrete grinding, oh there goes another drain cap!

I'm going to solve that problem. My Jayfeather will be flying higher and will be sporting new socks and shoes. I think I'm going to strip all the old decals off and replace them with some different colors and better decal material. My best friend is in the decal and wrap business.
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:50 AM   #14
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I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:02 AM   #15
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Lift

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
That is why I added the box tubing across the frame. The frame is stronger now. I could have real simply just welded the axle flanges to be he frame and accomplished the lift, but the way I'm doing it the factory axles can be replaced by unbolting them and bolting in new ones.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:34 PM   #16
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doboy Dawg View Post
That is why I added the box tubing across the frame. The frame is stronger now. I could have real simply just welded the axle flanges to be he frame and accomplished the lift, but the way I'm doing it the factory axles can be replaced by unbolting them and bolting in new ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
That reply was from my so called smart phone, so much from auto spell correct. My frame is stamped pressed steel also. I researched the lift extensively before starting it. I wanted to use blocks but the way the axle mounting flanges are made and frame construction made that option difficult. If the frame would have been made like normal travel trailer frames I would have welded axle hangers and put leaf springs with new axles under the camper. Due to the "pressed steel C channel" construction and the outside flange mounts of the torsion axles I decided to relocate the axle by welding a sub frame to the frame along with additional cross member support.

This is my version of a lift for my camper and I'm simply posting it, (for informational purposes only), as an alternative to what Jayco offers as a lift for my camper; which is none.

I will bet the camper and my tow vehicle that my frame will be stronger than the original Jayco frame. It will also have a actual rear bumper attached to the frame.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:45 PM   #17
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Jayfeather 29N Lift

Finished welding in the lift brackets or axle lowering brackets? My loyal helper of 14 years stayed by my side all day. Her hips are getting bad and it is killing me cause I know it wont be long.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:01 PM   #18
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Smile Jayfeather 29N Lift

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodandmir View Post
I have the same setup my X213, but the frame is pressed steel C section so I did not want to weld on it.
I dropped the axles by 5 inch by adding a plate to the outside of the mounting plate and sandwiching the mount to the frame.
No more scraping now, and easy sewer hookups. I still have to install the double steps I had to buy.
Why not show some pictures? I'm sure folks in Jaycoland would love to see some alternatives to tearing off sewer pipes on driveway entrances!

There was another poster whom is a machinist that did an awesome lift on his sewer dragger. His axle configuration was different than mine. I would have loved to have used 6061 billet aluminum blocks. I would have to welded a perch onto my axle tube for that to work and I was not too sure about welding on a rubber insert torsion tube!
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:11 PM   #19
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Cool Jayfeather 29N Lift

Took a couple days off and resumed work on the camper. The first pic is of Ospho the best rust destroyer inhibitor I have found. I treat my old and new metal with it in preparation for paint. You have to get the loose rust off and then the acid in Ospho will rapidly oxidize and destroy the remaining rust and keep it from bleeding back through the paint. On new steel it will etch the mill scale sufficiently to paint over it without hours of sanding or grinding it off.

The second and third pictures are the receiver hitch sub-frame and hitch being built into the new rear "step" bumper to replace the non existent Jayco rear bumper.
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:27 PM   #20
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Cool Jayfeather axle lift

Ah the hidden cost, even with all the best safety gear money can buy I still managed to get a piece of metal in my right eye. Luckily it did not get embedded, I guess the safety shield slowed it down enough so it did not cut into the eye. I was able to flush my eye with water enough to get it out. It did manage to scratch the cornea, dang it. The eye doc says no welding for a few days.

Heck I've been getting rained out everyday anyway. It's been 95-98 degrees with 80% humidity every day this last couple weeks.
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