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Old 12-06-2011, 06:19 PM   #1
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Jayflight Master Reset Button? (AC nor Heater Kicks on)

First and Foremost Someone please correct me if im in the wrong forum. I have what I believe is a Jayflight trailer, It's 29ft Long. 40-ish ft with trailer. I figured it went into either this or the "small and light" trailer sub-forum.

This is a hurricane rita/katrina recovery. So I know very little about it, however, in the past the a/c and heater worked all summer long.

Then, one week or two ago, the a/c started working intermittently. Sparingly turning on and off at will, and also, would not turn on when I pushed the button to command it too, or ticked the temp gauge. Then, after 45min - hour would kick on like nothing was wrong. worked for a few days longer then finally went kaput.

I hear there is a master reset button/switch for this model but have not found it. Someone told me it was in the panel next to the front door that contains the motor/electrical for the refrigerator. No luck there unless my eyes werent looking in the right spot.



As an aside, there was a small leak coming from a hose underneath the sink due to what I believe was "over-use" of the water-heater, possibly melted one of the thin vinyl hoses (only leaks when the hot water-heater is left on for too long) so i put a towel under there to soak up any water. And as you probally know there is a plethora of wires and electronics under there however none looked freyed. charred, or damaged. IE: nothing smoking or wrong. I dont understand why my heater/ac isnt working. Again as you may know the a/c and heater units are separate of each other and it would lend idea to a greater electrical problem as the interior breaker and fuses are all in working order and not blown.


Please help a chilly-member.

-Jayflight.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:52 PM   #2
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If I understand correctly this is a FEMA trailer?. If so in many cases these were somewhat different then conventional travel trailers built for the RV community and have residential refers, no holding tanks and such. It seems you are saying the heat is electric, not a gas furnace like most RV`s and possibly the water heater is different. I have no insight on your problems but am trying to help our members better understand what you have. If I have it wrong please elaborate what you have in the way of heat and hot water heater.

"It's 29ft Long. 40-ish ft with trailer". Please clarify this as well, maybe someone here can help ya out.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:38 PM   #3
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The post is a bit confusing. If it has an electric furnace it is possible that the breaker for the furnace and AC are one and the same. Perhaps the breaker is shot and only works until it is warmed up.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:12 PM   #4
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the trailer does have holding tanks and all that kinda stuff. the furnace also runs off propane. i just have a feeling that possibly the leaking hose underneath my sink (near where the furnace is) might have shorted something out in there.

to clarify: the breaker for the a/c and furnace are separate. and also have separate fuses. the breaker and fusebox are right next to each other right below the stove/oven.


edit:is anyone aware of a master reset switch in the refrigerator (or any other) area that will reset all electronics in the trailer?
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:21 AM   #5
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I`m not aware of any master reset switch other then of course the main 30 amp breaker if it is tripped. Does anything electrical in the trailer work?
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:32 AM   #6
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Yeah, all electrical things work except the a/c & heater. Its almost like the thermostat is just not getting power because when I flip the switches it doesnt kick on like normal.

I got propane and all that good stuff. Im just wondering if the leak under the sink had shorted something however, when i looked under there was no charred wires or any signs of damage (although there not always is with issues like this)

I've tripped the breaker and also removed and inspected fuses for damage, and upon reinserting them I've had no luck. I mean I suppose the next step is calling out a service tech. but they seem to be hard to get ahold of in my area asking me to wait up to a week for service.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayflight View Post
Yeah, all electrical things work except the a/c & heater. Its almost like the thermostat is just not getting power because when I flip the switches it doesnt kick on like normal.
Does the thermostat use batteries? If so, maybe they are getting weak.
Just a thought.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:03 AM   #8
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I popped the cover to the thermostat off and checked for batteries, there were none

then I inspected the wires and soldering to the circuit board and they were fine.
I started to gently remove the wires from the wall up to a point to inspect for any freying or charring but those too were just fine.

I dunno. Maybe the electrical isnt the issue and the fan isnt working. I am just stumped because the units are separate of each other.

The trailer is a 2006 so it really shouldnt be having any major issues.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:41 AM   #9
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The furnace and the AC have their own separate fans but do share the same thermostat. It does sound like the common link with this problem could be the thermostat or power being supplied to it.


" Im just wondering if the leak under the sink had shorted something however, when i looked under there was no charred wires or any signs of damage (although there not always is with issues like this)"

Do you know if your converter, fuse panel or furnace got wet with this leak?
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Old 12-09-2011, 04:39 PM   #10
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I dont think the furnace got wet because i caught the leak in time to sop up the water with a towel (wasnt much) and of course turn off the water heater which was causing the issue (due to what i think was water getting too hot passing through the vinyl hoses)

im not sure what the converter is, and the fusebox is too far away from where the leak was to have been affected (although never ruling it out).

i talked to a fella today who said to me there is an a/c and furnace reset switch underneath the sink. at first i thought he was referring to the fusebox under the stove but then he mentioned i would need a flashlight to see it properly. so today after work im going to go look for it and i'll let you know what i come up with and possibly even take pictures if i can.

-jf
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:57 AM   #11
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are you running this off 20 or 30 amp shore power? ac's over heat on 20amp and kick out
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:36 PM   #12
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Same Air condition and Furnace Issue

I am having the same issue with my 2009 Jay Flight 29 BSH, was wondering if you ever solved this issue? I have checked all my fuses and breakers, GFI and cleaned battery posts and still can't get air condition or the heater to kick on? Thinking it may be the thermostat but wanted to check with you on this posts before I make an investment. Appreciate any help you may be able to give me.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:05 PM   #13
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I think the place to start is your t-stat. First thing to check is that it has 12VDC power. If not then there's your problem. If 12VDC is present then jumper out the furnace and see if it comes on. Either that or if plugged into shore power you can jumper out the AC fan. If either works with jumpers then t-stat is cooked.

The furnace reset will only help if it is just the furnace not working.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:46 PM   #14
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I got out my multimeter tonight and tested by batteries they are both at 13.5 volts so good there. I then went to my thermostat and it read 0.13 dc volts by connecting ground to blue and positive to the red. What should be the voltage at the thermostat, seems pretty low for a 12 volt system? Also have checked every fuses I can find in the panel and one inline with the batteries, are there any other hidden fuses that folks know of? If i can't figure this out soon I will have to take it to the shop.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:13 PM   #15
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The good news is that you found your problem. You should have the same 13.5VDC accross the red and blue.

Did you check the fuse in the thermostat? If it's good then the next thing I'd check is the connections behind the t-stat. Assuming they arent the problem then check the blue ground for continuity to the trailer frame or some other grounding point you know is good. If that's good then you know it's the 12VDC supply. I've never had reason to check it's source but if you can find it then check for voltage there to isolate the problem.
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