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12-26-2014, 06:59 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Midlothian, TX
Posts: 277
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Leveling
What has worked best for you when leveling your TT?
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12-26-2014, 07:17 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Dalton
Posts: 44
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Bsikes,
Are you refering to how to level the trailer or what to use to level the trailer with such as wood planks, plastic type blocks, etc?
For me I always survey the sight first to see if there are any high/low spots, obstacles, etc. Then I pull in and check my side to side level. If I am off I will pull forward, place boards on the side I need to raise and backup onto the boards. For me I always like to be right at level or just a hair lower on my slide side. I do this to keep water from running back towards the camper should it rain during my stay. Once I have the side to side level where I want it I place my blocks under each stabilizer (do not lower them yet) and the front tongue jack, lower the tongue jack, unhook, and pull the truck out of the way. Now I level the trailer from front to back by using my tongue jack. Again for me I like to be a little nose high so the air conditioner condensation runs towards the back of the trailer. Once I am set with this I lower the stabilizers, snug them up and am good to go. If all goes well my air conditioner condensation will run off the back right corner opposite my entry side.
These are my preferences for leveling, but will/may vary depending upon your preferences, # of slides, which way your bath/shower faces, etc. Hope this helps.
__________________
2011 Jay Flight 29QBH
2013 F250 6.7 Diesel Lariat FX4
:cool:
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12-26-2014, 08:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 507
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Pretty much what weekender said, except don't forget to set your wheel chucks before unhitching from your vehicle.
__________________
2013 Jayco Jayflight Swift 264BH
2002 Yukon 5.3L Vortex w/tow package
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did–in his sleep. Not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car.
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12-26-2014, 10:03 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,770
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Pretty much like the others said. If you have slide outs, you will notice that side will drop a bit when they are deployed. Also if you put one board under one wheel you will get half the lift of placing one board under both wheels.
I very carefully leveled the tt, during one trip and installed a round bubble level on the tongue, using clear marine sealant. It is mounted very stable, and I can trust it. Not like the stick on levels which seam never be truly level.
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12-26-2014, 04:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,675
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This is the level that was put on in 2010 and to this day it's right on the money. Outside temps. Have ranged from 0deg.+ or - to 100+ in Arizona, rain and freezing rain and snow and still perfect!
You should level to the Refrigerator/freezer first because for best operation you should use the 3deg./5deg. rule and that is:
Place the level on the bottom of the freeze so the bubble is facing you then go outside and then fasten the level to the SIDE of the trailer and make sure it's perfect because this is your 3deg. Limit for your max frig" operation.
Now turn the level in the freezer 90deg and then fasten the level to front of the trailer " on the RIGHT hand side as your facing the trailer, this is the 5deg. rule level. And the reason you are placing it in this location is because when you are backing the trailer up you get out of your truck and the level is right there in front of you.
Why I like this level is because each hash mark represents 1" of trailer adjustment( at least on my trailer). If it's off 1 hash mark then I only use 1 Lego under each wheel on that side. I also carry 2- 1/2" boards for when I need a finer adjustment.
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12-26-2014, 05:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: McKean, PA
Posts: 1,073
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I use the same bubble level shown above. I carefully leveled the TT in our drive way and then mounted the level on the side of the TT so that it also read level. It hasn't moved in over 3 years and more than 8,000 miles. I cut some 16" pieces of 5/4 treated lumber decking that I keep in a milk crate in my utility compartment. They are exactly 1" thick. I park the TT near where we want it take a quick look at the level to determine how many boards we need under which side of the TT, stack them up behind the wheel and back onto them. If I inadvertently leave a board behind I'm not out much cost. I don't worry about getting it perfect, just within 1/2" side to side.
__________________
2011 Skylark 21FKV
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12-26-2014, 07:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekender
Bsikes,
Are you refering to how to level the trailer or what to use to level the trailer with such as wood planks, plastic type blocks, etc?
For me I always survey the sight first to see if there are any high/low spots, obstacles, etc. Then I pull in and check my side to side level. If I am off I will pull forward, place boards on the side I need to raise and backup onto the boards. For me I always like to be right at level or just a hair lower on my slide side. I do this to keep water from running back towards the camper should it rain during my stay. Once I have the side to side level where I want it I place my blocks under each stabilizer (do not lower them yet) and the front tongue jack, lower the tongue jack, unhook, and pull the truck out of the way. Now I level the trailer from front to back by using my tongue jack. Again for me I like to be a little nose high so the air conditioner condensation runs towards the back of the trailer. Once I am set with this I lower the stabilizers, snug them up and am good to go. If all goes well my air conditioner condensation will run off the back right corner opposite my entry side.
These are my preferences for leveling, but will/may vary depending upon your preferences, # of slides, which way your bath/shower faces, etc. Hope this helps.
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x2
__________________
Craig T. Bailey
Hudson, NH
2015 Jayflight 32BHDS
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew 4x4 Duramax
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12-26-2014, 08:00 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: DeWitt, MI
Posts: 1,213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex1961
Pretty much what weekender said, except don't forget to set your wheel chucks before unhitching from your vehicle.
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Oh I had a cousin who didn't do this once. He had rented a trailer and let me tell you...it's hard trying to catch and hold one once it's trying to run away.
__________________
MODERATOR
2007 Jayco Feather 19H
2008 Ford Explorer SportTrac
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12-26-2014, 08:02 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Midlothian, TX
Posts: 277
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This is exactly what I'm looking for. Never considered drainage for the A/C and the rain. This is why I'm excited about reading and being part of this forum!!! Thank you!!!
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12-27-2014, 07:37 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Boise
Posts: 201
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I go through a similar procedure, except since I boon dock. I try a spot, check for level, move the trailer and use a shovel on the high side and put the dirt under the low side. I move the trailer back and check for level. It may take a couple tries. A word of cation if the entry side is the high side since the steps may reach the ground.
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