Leveling Sissor Jacks

ByDesign · 07-17-2010, 10:32 AM

Our Designer is functioning better than hoped, but as we "settle" in I'm trying to fine-tune the Leveling. I attempted yesterday by placing a small level at various places to get a lay of the land.
We are abit low on the street (slide-outs) side.
The AC is draining perfectly on street side.
But I believe I'd like to adjust alittle and still attempt a finer tuning and might add a few stabilizers but the enclosed bottom doesn't reveal an appropriate place to place them. Any ideas??

Also, when trying to adjust the sissor jacks, I would tighten it and it would turn counter-clockwise "on it's own". I'm not sure, but I'm assuming I'm not getting much support from them. All four are like that. The person who delivered/setup didn't say anything. Any ideas on this ???
I thought perhaps a nut was suppose to be on the other end of the sissor jack adjustment, but none of the 4 have that.

Thanks for any insight on these !!!!

hammerdown · 07-17-2010, 01:48 PM

Sissor jacks are for stabilizing after you are level not for leveling. They are not strong enough to support the weight. You dealer should have installed these when the RV was on a level plane.

ByDesign · 07-17-2010, 03:14 PM

I thought that too. But the tow/setup guy used them to get a level.
We are not that far off, but since we are parked all season I figured I'd attempt a "more level" leveling.
Our prior TT was a single axel light-weight unit. I used the tongue and a Bal-Leveler and was able to attain a real good level, then use the stabilizers (4) to maintain it.
I wouldn't recommend the Bal-Leveler for long stays, like us. But they are Great for weekends.
The problem is getting the Jayco level enough to use the stabilizers to keep the jiggiling down as much as possible without having to pull the trailer off and on boards or what-ever, plus there's no guarantee that would work.

McMonk · 07-17-2010, 05:59 PM

I use boards under the wheels to get the level close - I've never had a problem with the scissor jacks getting loose on me on any of the trailers I've had. I normally get the jacks snug, and then give them another good quarter turn or so (the trailer will lift a bit), but as hammer says, never for lifting or levelling the trailer. I wonder if you got a bad batch of jacks?

Seann45 · 07-17-2010, 08:47 PM

Is it possible that they just compressed the ground and that is why they are loose?

ByDesign · 07-18-2010, 08:41 AM

There may be settling in a bit, but the resort has been around awhile, and the gravel at our site is well packed. We are at this moment inside awaiting for this rain system to pass. I went outside to get a look and I believe I'm leaning to far street-side. The water draining on the curb side is running down the side over the WH access.
I think I could lift the street-side up some.
It's very confusing why, after adjusting the stabilizers, that they would "back-off" by themselves, all 4.I assumed this was normal. What I'm cautious about is going to far street side, then having to adjust curb side. Knowing how much to adjust is the trick, I guess.
My first concern is the sissor jack behavior.
Finding a good reference of "level" some where on the TT (inside or out) would be advantageous.

All in all I know I'm to street-side low, but fortunately that has it's advantages, short-term. On the long haul I'm concerned about other complications.

Seann45 · 07-18-2010, 07:08 PM

I assume you have the screw type stabilizers.. I just do not understand how they could "back off". Esp because it is raining I will put my money on the ground being soft and compacting. This is why I always put a 12X12 board under each one.

vesteroid · 07-18-2010, 07:28 PM

mine will back off too. I watched it happen this weekend. I tightened them up, took the tool off and watched the screw back off a turn or so.

I was going to post about it, but I have been using them to level the trailer (slightly) so maybe thats my issue.

ByDesign · 07-18-2010, 08:47 PM

I thought so too Vester, that the "back-off" was a built-in way of saying "I only go so far" !

But I dont believe that these "screw" type sissor jacks are maintaining my (Slightly) either.
I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow, and perhaps even Jayco to get the scoop on this. If its a sign of "out living its usefullness" then they need to be replaced and I'll live with that.
I dont expect the dealer or Jayco to replace all 4 for free. It'd be nice to get a good price at the dealer, but ya never know.
I also have to contact him about the electric element in the WH.
Over the weekend we discovered a small leak in the drain pipe under the Kitchen sink.
Its at the piece that has the catch. Looks like a "U" .... I tightened it but then it leaked worse. I'm thinking these are to be tightened by hand only. I tried pipe tape with no success. Well find out if the dealer will go to the trailer and check the WH and the leak.

Also I think I know how the wood floor in the kitchen because dis-colored. (around the Fridge/stove area up against cabinet). The drain catch for the freezer was frozen up with water and the deflecters(3) were frozen in that water. We noticed this just this weekend during some pretty hot weather. I removed the drain tray and cleaned and re-assembled the drain w/deflecters installed correctly and re-installed. The drain hose is in question, so Im taking a can of compressed air and try directing some air down it in attempt to clear that if its obstructed.
I have a feeling its not blocked, and the water is coming from the water freezing in the drain tray and blocking the drain process.
Any Ideas ??

McMonk · 07-19-2010, 07:19 PM

A discoloured floor is never a good sign. Water damage on the floor can lead to some serious structural problems. We had a similar issue with a TT. What started with a bit of a blue discolouration on the white linoleum turned into dry-rot and a soft-floor. Keep an eye on it and as soon as it seems that the floor becomes soft, get in there and fix it or it'll spread like wildfire.

The good news is that you probably did find where water is getting under the floor and should be able to correct it.

ByDesign · 07-19-2010, 08:47 PM

Thanks Monk ! Will definitely keep an eye on that. I've used my hands to further examine the floor and it's not soft or spongie.
I've called the dealer and they are going to make a service call next week to the TT and will check out the drip, WH, and stabilizers.

More to follow !!

ByDesign · 08-02-2010, 09:01 PM

Going to have a CampGround neighbor pull the trailer out this saturday so we can stick some wood under the street-side to help level it.

Was considering using a 2x6 treated, then some 1x6 (treated) to bring it up to near level.
Not sure how much I need, so going to attempt a few pull-outs and backups to get-r-there.

Hopefully this will get us close enough to use the stabilizers to minimize shake.
Also looking into some tandem wheel chocks on both sides.
Can anyone recommend a particular type ?
Bal makes some nice ones, and there are a others out there with widely varying prices ($30 to $90) and construction (plastic/metal).

hammerdown · 08-03-2010, 05:19 AM

A friend has these http://tweetys.com/wheelstops.aspx, they work very well and the price is right.

ByDesign · 08-03-2010, 08:23 AM

Thanks hammer !
Those are exactly what the guy has that is helping me Saturday. He recommended them too.

Thanks for the link !

ByDesign · 08-04-2010, 04:49 PM

Ive browsed around some forums, and a google or two later, I think that (for the most part) RVers use presure treated wood under the tires for a side-to-side level. But most are towing, and thats "not" my situation. I read a post from a seasonal camper inquiring about the same thing and most responses were "wood". For Example(all treated wood)

Two 2x8s (one cut to 6ft., one cut to 5ft) with some 1x6s for extreme situations.
Also some are using 2x6s w/ 1x6s cut at various lengths to attain "level".

I believe, or hope to go with, the two 2x8s cut at lengths of 6ft, and 5ft., with both meeting at the end. This allows for a "step" effect while attempting to acheive "level" when backing the Jayco onto them.
I may even throw a 1x6 under the "low" side to get the tires off the ground.
This is a total gain of close to 3" on the street(driver) side. We'll see if thats enough, and I hope it is. The bubble in the side-to-side level is not visible because of the tilt to the street side. I hope to get it as close to "ball-park" as I can.
Im also considering attaching both boards together with screws so the top board wont spring up when the wheels attempt to climb it.
Get'n this done on Saturday, so wish me luck, and I'll try to post results via my iPhone from the camp site.

Texas Sam · 08-04-2010, 05:34 PM

I have used 2X8 and 2X10 treated lumber to make leveling easier when one side of the trailer parking pad is significantly higher than the other. I have stacked as many as three boards on top of one another to raise the low side of the trailer 5.25 inches (the nominal height of a 2 inch board is 1.75 inches, not 2 inches--don't ask me why).

The bottom board is six feet long, the middle board is five feet long and the top board is 4 feet long. I used a circular saw to cut the boards to the proper length; and I set the base plate on the circular saw to a 45 degree angle when making the cuts so each board ended up with tapered ends.

I also have a set of LYNX plastic leveling blocks that I use when there is only a small variation in the level of the trailer parking pad. They are light but strong and they hook together to form an inclined ramp.

Once you have raised the trailer several inches on one side you will need some 2X6 or larger wooden blocks to put under the scissor jacks. I usually carry 9 of these blocks so that I can put one or more under each jack and under the front tongue jack. I put two or more on the side that has been raised the most.

Good luck on your project.

ByDesign · 08-04-2010, 08:24 PM

Thanks Sam !

Ive picked up some solid concrete blocks for the tongue and sissor jacks. I think they weight in at about 80lbs each.
I was think'n I needed to pick up a new circular saw blade to cut those 45deg leaders on the stacked boards.
So, your using 8" and 10" wide boards? I must be underestimating the needed width, but perhaps its easier when pulling into a site. My situation is pulling the Jayco straight out 6' or so, then reversing the procedure. Not complicated at all.
I need to pick up the lumber before I head out on Friday.

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