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Old 06-07-2011, 09:17 AM   #1
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New purchase 2011 28BHS - need advice on Reese DC hitch

Hi folks, just upgraded today to a 2011 28BHS & have to make a decision on hitches. I have read a lot of good things about the Equal-i-zer & Reese dual cams. Anyway I can get a good deal on the Reese Dual Cam from the dealer but the choices go from 800lb/8000lb to 1200/12000lb with nothing in between. The dry hitch weigh is 690lbs & we travel light without water but I'm just wondering if there are any downsides to using the 1200/12000 set up? I know it's overkill but if it doesn't do any harm it may be ok. The GVWR of the trailer is 7500lbs (even though we wouldn't be anywhere near that) & if you take 15% you end up with 1125. Also anyone have experiences with this hitch? Do you have to disconnect to back up? Any other thoughts? Thanks....Frank
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:39 AM   #2
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Go with the 1200lbs. You never know when you will load heavy plus the additional weight of the family in TV. Also there is no problems backing up with the DC.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:42 AM   #3
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We have a model similar to yours. Odd as it sounds, our tongue weight out of the factory was greater than this year's model. Once all is said and done, and you add items to your front storage, maybe a second battery, and even what you store under the bed and front cabinets, your tongue weight will increase. Last couple of weigh-in's, our tongue weight varied between 1025-50 lbs. Consider the 1200# bars. Congrats on the new tt!
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:43 PM   #4
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I agree with the other two posts. 800 lb bars may not be enough. Go with 1200. And you CAN back up with the Dual Cam System hooked up.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #5
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I echo the 1,200lb rated Reese HP Dual Cam for the 28BHS. I believe that the 28BHS has the ball coupler welded to the bottom of the TT A-frame, if this is the case go with the trunnion style spring bars (in lieu of round bar). The trunnion style ball mount gives you twice as much rear tilt (toward TT) which provides a wider range of adjustment (helps in obtaining required clearances).

If the ball coupler is welded to the top of the TT A-frame, go with the round spring bars. Although not as much rear tilt adjustment, but tends to give a little more clearance at the leading edge of the A-frame tube frame.

Also, make sure that your dealer gives you the latest version of the Reese HP Dual Cam, it should look like this (note the bend in the chain hanger bracket, and the cam arm is silver):



Bob
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #6
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Thanks for the feedback guys. So it looks like there are no downsides to the 1200lb bars. I have heard a lot of good things about the Reese DC as well and it gives me some confidence that I'll have a stable towing experience. It's a big change going from a Ford Escape & 18ft Surveyor to an F150 & a 30.5ft trailer so anything I can get to make the transition easier is good!:hihi:

As an aside I'm happy to be joining the Jayco family as I spent a lot of hours over the winter doing research and we kept coming back to Jayco after looking at videos of how they were built, reading reviews from owners, 2 yr warranty etc. Plus my wife LOVED the 28BHS with the counter space & the overall layout. It was also nice that it was lighter than your typical full slide like the 25BHS & others. Thanks again....Frank
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:32 PM   #7
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I didn't see your post Bob before I sent the last reply.....thanks for the tips & I'll check with the dealer.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:48 PM   #8
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Frank,

If you can, watch over the shoulder of the tech while he is installing/adjusting the HP Dual Cam product. "If" the tech does it correctly it will be adjusted to an empty TT, so once you load your TV/TT combination up for camping you will have to re-adjust the HP Dual Cam to loaded conditions. If you don't want to tackle this yourself, advise your RV dealer that you will be back in the near future so they can re-adjust it.

Oh, don't let them tell you that they can adjust it ahead of time for loaded conditions.....can't be done!

Bob
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:54 PM   #9
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Bob, I caught a glimpse of the cams in the box & they may be the previous version although I'm not 100% sure but that would explain why they were discounted I guess. If they are the previous version are they still ok? They didn't have the spring bars & had to order them in so he asked me to let him know which ones I wanted by Friday.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:06 PM   #10
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Frank,

Here is a pic of the earlier version of the Reese HP Dual Cam (the same version I have):



The earlier version will be just fine...., the latest version just came out late 2010. The latest version in some applications gives one a little more cam arm clearance, but either way you should be ok with the Jayco style A-frame.

It takes a little patience to adjust any WDH, but when it's done correctly the end result is a TV/TT combination that will handle well in both ideal and less than ideal towing conditions.

Bob
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #11
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The ball coupler is on the top of the A frame on the 28BHS.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:56 PM   #12
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Lee,

If my memory is correct(?), I recall that you have the earlier version Reese HP Dual Cam. Which style spring bars do you have on your 2010 28BHS?

Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:18 AM   #13
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Bob, I have the square style trunnion bars. Yeah I have the REALLY early version, about 10 yrs old, with the ubolts.
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:37 AM   #14
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Not that it matters, I agree with the Reese hitch. We just bought our 2011 28BHS and am using my previous WD hitch. It is working fine, but it is the 8000 pound unit. Like I said it is working, but if I had my druthers, I would rather go over than just getting by. I also am using friction style sway bars, and it has to be removed for backing up, which I tend to forget about till I'm accross a road blocking 5 cars or so. I also find the friction sway bars really dont do that much...I think I'm going to look at upgrading, but since I talked my wife into this camper, waiting for the "smoke to clear" before I start spending again.
We too love this floor plan, and agree that the slide does not add that much weight, but makes the unit really roomy. Hope you enjoy it, we've had one trip out so far, and 30.5 feet sure is nice coming from 19.5.
All the best to you
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACA6151 View Post
Not that it matters, I agree with the Reese hitch. We just bought our 2011 28BHS and am using my previous WD hitch. It is working fine, but it is the 8000 pound unit. Like I said it is working, but if I had my druthers, I would rather go over than just getting by. I also am using friction style sway bars, and it has to be removed for backing up, which I tend to forget about till I'm accross a road blocking 5 cars or so. I also find the friction sway bars really dont do that much...I think I'm going to look at upgrading, but since I talked my wife into this camper, waiting for the "smoke to clear" before I start spending again.
We too love this floor plan, and agree that the slide does not add that much weight, but makes the unit really roomy. Hope you enjoy it, we've had one trip out so far, and 30.5 feet sure is nice coming from 19.5.
All the best to you

I used to have a friction type sway control. Money was tight after I bought my new TT and I really wanted to upgrade my w/d system. I went to Len-Rich mobile RV and they worked me a deal . They took my 1000lbs bars and gave me a set of gently used 1200lbs bars and installed the cams. The price was cheap and they ensured it was set up properly. Right after that we headed to Disney from NY and I had no more sway.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
Bob, I have the square style trunnion bars. Yeah I have the REALLY early version, about 10 yrs old, with the ubolts.
Yep, that's the original Reese Dual Cam prior to the "HP" versions.

In case anyone wants to know what the original Reese Dual Cam looked like:



Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:35 AM   #17
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Thanks again for all the feedback guys.

So it seems that I should get the 1200/12000 springs and since as Lee said, the 28BHS has the ball coupler welded to the top of the A-frame instead of the bottom, I should get the round spring bars? Sound correct?
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
Yep, that's the original Reese Dual Cam prior to the "HP" versions.

In case anyone wants to know what the original Reese Dual Cam looked like:



Bob
That`s it, including the adapters that bolt on the bars which I also have on mine. I purchased a brand new set just like in the picture for a spare, for 58.00 delivered on Ebay about a yr ago. Some guy had 40 or so sets of them for sale, and they went fast. Just one Cam arm would cost that much or more. So now I have spare parts for the system should I need them.
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:47 PM   #19
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snip........So it seems that I should get the 1200/12000 springs and since as Lee said, the 28BHS has the ball coupler welded to the top of the A-frame instead of the bottom, I should get the round spring bars? Sound correct?
Frank,

As long as Jayco didn't change the coupler mounting for 2011 28BHS, I'd go with the round bars.

The issue that comes into play with top mounted couplers (with the HP Dual Cam) is with the height of the A-frame tube (or channel) with any RV manufacturer's TT, HTT, etc.. As the height increases (ie, 5", 6", etc.) the knuckle on the trunnion style bars can hit the leading edge of the A-frame tube (or channel) in a modest TV turn causing the spring bar to bind. There are work-a-rounds (riser ball, ball mount tilt, etc.), but why deal with them if you don't have to.

I have the trunnion bars but my Jayco coupler is welded to the bottom of the A-frame giving me all sorts of clearances around associated componants...,



Frank, please note that there is a specific way to place the chain hanger bracket over the cam, it has to do with the direction of the small U-bolt threads that hold the chain to the hanger bracket. RV dealers seem to get this wrong most of the time:

On the earlier version (like mine) of the HP DC the U-bolt threads should be facing OUTWARD:



On the latest version of the HP DC the U-bolt threads should be facing INWARD:



If the tech says it doesn't matter, tell him if the brackets are reversed it will create an outward "pull" on the snap-up bracket which opens up a whole new set of problems.

Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:43 PM   #20
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If the 1200 brs prove to be too much, you can always buy 1000lb bars for the Reese. I just went from 1000lb bars to 1200lb bars. I'll make someone a good deal on some 1000lb bars. I'll never have a need for them again.
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