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Old 12-06-2014, 02:54 PM   #1
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New TT (287BHSW) Owner - Question!

Howdy everyone, the name's Jeremy and I'm a first-time RV owner (Jayco 287BHSW). Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to completely test out the RV yet...the water lines have anti-freeze in them, so I just let them be for now since it's way too cold to go RVing

http://www.jayco.com/products/travel...t-slx/287bhsw/

Unfortunately I'm a bit confused. I was told both by the Camping World walkthrough guy as well as a coworker that when hooking up to City Water, it would bypass the fresh water tank and you could just use city water pressure for everything.

According to my manual, though, that doesn't seem to be the case. Below are a couple of snippets directly from the manual:

********
"The fresh water tank can be gravity filled or pressure filled using the fresh water inlet (called city water)."

"CAUTION - Be careful not to overfill the fresh water holding tank. It can pressurize the tank, causing leakage and water damage and void the warranty. DO NOT leave the tank unattended while filling."

To use the city water fill
1. "If needed, sanitize the system".
2. etc.
3. Turn on water, open faucets, you'll hear air, etc. etc.
4. "The water heater will fill first, followed by the supply lines and faucets."
************

So hopefully I can explain my confusion - it appears the fresh water tank can be gravity filled or city water filled (I have both connections). The manual cautions me not to overfill the fresh water tank, but then fails to mention the tank at all when talking about the 4 steps to use the city water fill.

I have a pressure regulator, so I should be good to go with that. In the WATER HEATER BYPASS section of the manual, it shows a diagram of the fresh tank, pump, and water heater and talks about closing valves so that anti-freeze doesn't fill the water heater.

The diagram indicates a valve going to the fresh water tank, but nowhere else in the manual can I find mention of that valve.

So I'm a bit confused.

Let's say I go to the RV park and wish to use city water and pressure without filling up the fresh water tank:

Should I try to find the fresh tank valve and make sure it's closed, then open the hot water valves and use city water connection (and disconnect the city water hose when I'm not at the RV, per the manual)?
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:55 PM   #2
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on mine the city water connection comes in downline from the pump for the freshwater tanks so it should not backfeed to the tanks when hooked to city water connection
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:00 PM   #3
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I have the same trailer, don't pay attention to the manual as it is very confusing in the regard of water usage, you don't have to do anything, your trailer is good to go, you can hook up city water and leave it connected for duration of camping, the manual just warns you that if there is an excessive water pressure and the water lines burst and leak, it would cause a great damage to the trailer, you can shut off outside water connection when leaving the trailer if you wish, but with the pressure regulator you should be fine, sometimes , we stay at one place for two weeks and we never bother to turn the water off, your fresh water pump is located just under the kitchen sink, there is a small partition luan board being held by a screw, take the screw out and look at your pump, you will see two valves and a short clear tube connected to the top of your pump, you only touch these valve when you winterize the trailer, the valve on the right is opened to let the pump suck in water from the fresh water tank, the top valve is closed, when winterizing, you close the right fresh water valve and open the valve on the top of the pump, put the end of the clear tube in a RV antifreeze , this will cause the pump to pump liquid from the clear pipe instead of the fresh water tank, once you fill up your plumbing with antifreeze just close the top valve and opulent your fresh water valve, but if you camping with city connection, your fresh water pump stays off, your system is using city water pressure, also , take off the mattress from the lower bunk bed, you will see a small square cut out with a hole in the far right corner, lift it up, you will see the hot water heater and two bypass valves, when winterizing, you don't want to fill up the hot water heater with 6 gal of antifreeze , you shut of both valves and drain the heater on the outside, there is a white plug when looking at the heater from outside, you unscrew it and let water out, leave it open for winter, once you go back to camping, screw the drain plug back on and open both valves, also in the bathroom vanity you have low point drain valves for draining the entire system, just pull them up, hope it helps
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:15 PM   #4
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just one thing if you have run the pump make sure you relieve the pressure with a hot water faucet open before removing the plug in the water heater or you could get soaked when it comes out
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:39 PM   #5
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The gravity feed port fills the fresh water tank only, you need the pump to get the water out of the tank. The city water connection directly connects CG water supply at the campsite if available to the plumbing, bypassing the need for the pump.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:06 AM   #6
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My manual says the same thing. I too am confused by it, but I'm pretty sure they meant to say "you can fill the fresh water tank with a hose, or with a funnel and jerry can."

There is a check valve at the pump that when functioning prevents water from filly the FW tank when you are hooked to city water.
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:42 PM   #7
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BTW, welcome to the forum. I'm also a new tt owner and I have learned so much from forum members..
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:48 PM   #8
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I learn something almost every day on this site but not on every post. Like the regulator preventing flooding? I think it would prevent over pressuring and bursting pipes, but hardly anything else, should a line or fitting leak. I shut off city water if I'm going to be gone more than a few minutes. You only have to see water pouring out of a camper door once to make that a habit.

And no, you aren't going to fill your fresh water tank when you hook up to city water. That's what the gravity fill port is for.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:37 PM   #9
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I learn something almost every day on this site but not on every post. Like the regulator preventing flooding? I think it would prevent over pressuring and bursting pipes, but hardly anything else,
I am not certain that ALL pressure regulators will prevent a flood from a burst hose inside your camper.

There is a special type of regulator (typically used for washing machines) that will shutoff the flow if it detects no back pressure (i.e. broken hose).
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:52 PM   #10
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I am not certain that ALL pressure regulators will prevent a flood from a burst hose inside your camper.

There is a special type of regulator (typically used for washing machines) that will shutoff the flow if it detects no back pressure (i.e. broken hose).
I would be interested in one of those. Are they reasonably priced, and where available. Or I guess I should just google it. I'd still shut of the city water hose bib, but that device would be a great backup. Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:06 PM   #11
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When we leave our trailer the water always gets shut off. Have seen to many people come home to find their trailer is flooded cause of a broken pipe.
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:36 AM   #12
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water pump

Hi I am completely new to the rv world we bought a 2017 jayco flight slx rear living room 265.i was looking at the water pump and it looks like there is only one vale to winterize is that possible thanks
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:46 AM   #13
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Hi I am completely new to the rv world we bought a 2017 jayco flight slx rear living room 265.i was looking at the water pump and it looks like there is only one vale to winterize is that possible thanks
Usually there are two valves. Recently I saw a photo of a water heater bypass with a three way valve.

Do you have three hoses connected to that valve? Of not look a bit more closely, there will be a short clear hose for antifreeze, and a valve where it ties into the main line between the pump and FW tank
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:04 PM   #14
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Usually there are two valves. Recently I saw a photo of a water heater bypass with a three way valve.

Do you have three hoses connected to that valve? Of not look a bit more closely, there will be a short clear hose for antifreeze, and a valve where it ties into the main line between the pump and FW tank
it has three hoses attached one clear and two white ones also the hot water heater only has one valve
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:18 PM   #15
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Hi, newguy. Congratulations on your new SLX and welcome to the forum.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:05 PM   #16
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it has three hoses attached one clear and two white ones also the hot water heater only has one valve
Yup, you've got 3-way valves.

Much easier to use than multiple one-way valves.

If you look closely at the back of the water heater, you'll find a check valve that works in cooperation with the 3-way winterizing valve.

Enjoy! You won't be able to fill the lines with air when the FW tank is full of water. Nor will you ever have some really strange shower temperature fluctuations!

When you get the chance, mark the valve positions for "Winter" and "Summer". You'll save yourself a headache some spring or fall evening.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JL_Smith View Post
Howdy everyone, the name's Jeremy and I'm a first-time RV owner (Jayco 287BHSW). Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to completely test out the RV yet...the water lines have anti-freeze in them, so I just let them be for now since it's way too cold to go RVing

Jay Flight SLX Travel Trailers | Jayco, Inc.

Unfortunately I'm a bit confused. I was told both by the Camping World walkthrough guy as well as a coworker that when hooking up to City Water, it would bypass the fresh water tank and you could just use city water pressure for everything.

According to my manual, though, that doesn't seem to be the case. Below are a couple of snippets directly from the manual:

********
"The fresh water tank can be gravity filled or pressure filled using the fresh water inlet (called city water)."

"CAUTION - Be careful not to overfill the fresh water holding tank. It can pressurize the tank, causing leakage and water damage and void the warranty. DO NOT leave the tank unattended while filling."

To use the city water fill
1. "If needed, sanitize the system".
2. etc.
3. Turn on water, open faucets, you'll hear air, etc. etc.
4. "The water heater will fill first, followed by the supply lines and faucets."
************

So hopefully I can explain my confusion - it appears the fresh water tank can be gravity filled or city water filled (I have both connections). The manual cautions me not to overfill the fresh water tank, but then fails to mention the tank at all when talking about the 4 steps to use the city water fill.

I have a pressure regulator, so I should be good to go with that. In the WATER HEATER BYPASS section of the manual, it shows a diagram of the fresh tank, pump, and water heater and talks about closing valves so that anti-freeze doesn't fill the water heater.

The diagram indicates a valve going to the fresh water tank, but nowhere else in the manual can I find mention of that valve.

So I'm a bit confused.

Let's say I go to the RV park and wish to use city water and pressure without filling up the fresh water tank:

Should I try to find the fresh tank valve and make sure it's closed, then open the hot water valves and use city water connection (and disconnect the city water hose when I'm not at the RV, per the manual)?
I have the exact same trailer, bought it a couple of weeks ago!

City Water: We just went camping this past weekend at a site with full hookups and and hooked up city water to the back of the trailer. Basically there's no need to worry about the fresh water tank whatsoever when you're hooked up to the city water. The water pressure from the city will force water through all the lines and you're good to go. When you open a tap(s) you'll hear/feel the air in the line come out, but eventually it'll only be water coming out.

The city water hookup won't fill the fresh water tank. I think the water pump blocks this from happening. The only way to use the fresh water tank is to fill it up on the door-side of the trailer with a hose. Then turn on the water pump to pump water from the fresh water tank through the system.

That clear hose under the sink is for winterizing. Turn the valve so that it's inline with the clear hose and you can pump antifreeze into the system by turning on the water pump (after putting the clear hose in a jug of antifreeze).

Fresh Water Fillup: When you fill up the freshwater tank with a hose (door-side of the trailer), if you fill it up too far, it'll simply drain out of the freshwater tank overflow lines (not the low-point drains, that's something else). In theory if you left the fresh water filler hose unattended with a high enough pressure, it could cause a problem, but if you stay around the trailer while it's filling, just shut off the hose when you see water coming out of the overflow lines under the trailer near the freshwater tank.

Water Heater Bypass: In 287BHSW trailer there are only two valves, not three as it shows in the manual. Turn these to bypass the Water Heater so that you don't pump antifreeze into the Water Heater during winterization. The rest of the time the bypass stays off so that you can use fresh water tank or city water to get water into the hot water tank to heat it up.

System Sanitization: We didn't sanitize the fresh water system and pipes first (water/bleach/flush/etc) before we went camping and regretted not doing it. We had a persistent taste of anti-freeze (since it was a brand new trailer) in the lines which I think was pulling from the non-sanitized lines connected to the fresh water tank. We thoroughly flushed the rest of the system, but it didn't help.

After we got home I did a full fresh water tank sanitization and that did the trick. Water tastes normal again.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:31 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=mike837go;460433]Yup, you've got 3-way valves.

Much easier to use than multiple one-way valves.

If you look closely at the back of the water heater, you'll find a check valve that works in cooperation with the 3-way winterizing valve.

Enjoy! You won't be able to fill the lines with air when the FW tank is full of water. Nor will you ever have some really strange shower temperature fluctuations!

When you get the chance, mark the valve positions for "Winter" and "Summer". You'll save yourself a headache some spring or fall evening.[/QUtOTE] thanks all you have been a big help I think I. Will like my jayco
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:58 AM   #19
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[QUOTE=newguy;460447]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Yup, you've got 3-way valves.

Much easier to use than multiple one-way valves.

If you look closely at the back of the water heater, you'll find a check valve that works in cooperation with the 3-way winterizing valve.

Enjoy! You won't be able to fill the lines with air when the FW tank is full of water. Nor will you ever have some really strange shower temperature fluctuations!

When you get the chance, mark the valve positions for "Winter" and "Summer". You'll save yourself a headache some spring or fall evening.[/QUtOTE] thanks all you have been a big help I think I. Will like my jayco
thanks there is still a lot of stuff I still have to learn
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:58 AM   #20
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with valve turned the hot water faucets wont work help

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Yup, you've got 3-way valves.

Much easier to use than multiple one-way valves.

If you look closely at the back of the water heater, you'll find a check valve that works in cooperation with the 3-way winterizing valve.

Enjoy! You won't be able to fill the lines with air when the FW tank is full of water. Nor will you ever have some really strange shower temperature fluctuations!

When you get the chance, mark the valve positions for "Winter" and "Summer". You'll save yourself a headache some spring or fall evening.
I started winterizing my trailer and if I turn the valve on the hot water heater off the hot water faucets wont work thanks
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