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Old 11-05-2013, 09:11 AM   #21
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Th clothes and "other stuff" in the camper are irrelevant. That goes towards gross weight of the trailer. The critical factor is the truck's payload and with the bike and hitch weight you are still at almost 140 lbs. That leaves little for passengers and cargo. You will still probably decide you are OK, and that's up to you, but the fact is, you are going to be overloaded on the truck. A lot of people are, but the bottom line, it's your choice and no one here is going to give a blessing to do it.

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Old 11-05-2013, 09:22 AM   #22
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Bob , I am confused of how you see it over weight. Don't get me wrong I am trying to get this right.
I will not be carrying any other cargo in the truck and only one passenger of 125# top .

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Old 11-05-2013, 06:31 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mikeos View Post
My hitch does not include sway control. I did get a demo and watch youtube for how to connect hitch.
From my number
The trailer loaded 5867# (10% pin) # = 587#
motorcycle = 600#
Total 1187#
Truck rated at 1440#
Correct ???
A trip to a CAT scale to verify your weights including tongue weight which can go as much as 13-15% would prove helpful in determining your true weight situation and verify if you are under or over your max payload.


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Old 11-05-2013, 06:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Mikeos View Post
snip....... With those numbers I think I am ok..... snip

Unfortunately most 1/2 ton pickup trucks lack a adequate Payload Capacity, and most folks find this out as the loaded tongue weights increase with larger and heavier TT's. As mentioned, the loaded TT tongue weight of a TT is supported by the TV, thus reduces the TV's available payload capacity. In your case your actual loaded TT tongue weight may be ok, but once you add the weight of the motorcycle (ramp, gas can, etc.) to the bed of the truck it has a direct effect on the "remaining" available payload capacity.

Referencing your earlier posted weights, please note:

* GVWR is the "maximum" weight the TV can weigh (unhitched, hitched, etc.)
* "Curb Weight" is the base model vehicle weight including a 150lb driver and a full tank of fuel..., it doesn't include the vehicle's options, passengers, cargo, etc.
* Your published Tow Rating of 9,050lbs is based on "Curb Weight".
* Your published Payload Capacity of 1,440lb is based on "Curb Weight".
* Weight of the WDH is subtracted from the TV's payload capacity.
* The TT's "yellow sticker" doesn't include any dealer weight adds (ie; battery, etc.)
* The WDH should be sized (rated) to support a percentage of any weight (motorcycle, etc.) placed in the bed of the truck located behind the rear axle because the WDH also supports this weight.
* You may want to consider towing with only a couple of gallons in the fresh water tank (reduces impact on the loaded tongue weight).

IMO taking your "loaded, ready-to-camp" TV/TT combination (with motorcycle) to a CAT scale will eliminate all the guess work and address most of your questions. The CAT scale data will confirm WDH sizing/adjustment, actual TV loaded weight compared to GVWR, TT loaded tongue weight, etc.).

The following JOF link will walk you step-by-step through the process of weighing a TV/TT combination at a CAT scale. Everyone should preform this task at least once with their respective TV/TT combination.... provides a wealth of information in support of your TV/TT towing expectations.

CAT Scale "How To": http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...igh-Your-tt-tv

Actual Tow Rating: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...uot-Tow-Rating

Another option is to load-up only your TV (ready-to-camp w/motorcycle) and weigh it at the CAT scale. Subtract the CAT scale weight from your TV's GVWR noted on the driver's door...., the remaining weight is what you have available for the TT's loaded tongue weight and any other TV weight not accounted for at the scale.

I hope this helps.

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Old 11-06-2013, 05:50 AM   #25
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I would make a trip to a CAT scale just to see where you are at. You can move stuff around in the trailer to adjust weight as needed. I don't think you need to look at a new truck. Would a 1 ton diesel tow better…yes….but it's overkill. Weigh your combo and see where you stand.

As for the hitch, you don't have any sway control so you MUST look at this! I will recommend 100% you look into a Propride 3P or Hensley Arrow hitch. These both ELIMINATE sway and I can verify this as I run a Propride on a 1/2 ton truck. I get absolutely NO sway from passing trucks. In fact the last camping trip we took on Columbus weekend, my buddy with a Ram 2500 Cummins towing a 28BHS asked if I had any trouble with wind gusts…I said I didn't think it was windy at all. I never felt it yet he did in fact feel sway a couple times and he has a WDH w/ friction control!

I went with the Propride because we are planning to start venturing outside NYS to do some camping and I didn't want to worry about towing. I can tow at any speed with no worries about sway now.

I see you are in northern NY, I am near Oswego if you want to look at a Propride hitch. Just let me know.

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Old 11-06-2013, 06:30 AM   #26
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I recommend the Pro Pride hitch. I tow a 2014 27DSRL Whitehawk with my '96 Ford Bronco 105" WB . The 3P is more expensive but eliminates trailer sway, I'll never use anything else.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:05 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mikeos View Post
Are you referring to the TT manual or hitch manual?? I don't have any info on the hitch
i have the same hitch and went online at the Reese web site to check the set-up

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Old 11-06-2013, 09:32 AM   #28
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I had a Hensley Arrow and highly recommend it. Especially if you are at or near the limits of your tow rig. I had a situation where I was on compact snow and ice coming down an overpass when a out of control vehicle cut me off. I hammered the brakes and the ABS on the truck kicked in. Of course the trailer brakes locked up. What would have happened in this situation with a conventional setup would have been that the trailer would have jackknifed around my truck. The reason for this is you cannot use friction sway control if you are on marginal traction surfaces such as snow or ice. In this case my truck had studded snow tires so traction for the truck was reasonably good considering the situation. The trailer tires were the standard tires and afforded little traction on ice. The Hensley Arrow did its job and kept the trailer behind me where it belonged. I was able to avoid the collision with the out of control car. Unfortunately the truck next to me wasn't that lucky and t-boned her at 50 MPH (thank the Lord I wasn't going that fast!). I have been in multiple situations like this where we had to stop suddenly or take evasive maneuvers to avoid a collision in the 50,000 miles I pulled my trailer around the west coast. It is simply impossible for the trailer to sway or move the truck unless you have completely lost traction on the front tires of the TV.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:48 AM   #29
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I think Pro Pride and Hensley are the top of the mark in hitches but I also like and use the Equalizer hitch. I pull 11,000lbs of trailer with the Equalizer 12K and I have no sway, zero, I can't tell when a truck passes me other than to see it. Some of that towing ease is based upon the weight on the trailer. Light weight trailers are way more difficult to get setup than heavy ones. Newtons laws of motion apply here.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by msturtz View Post
I had a Hensley Arrow and highly recommend it. Especially if you are at or near the limits of your tow rig.....snip
In the case of the OP's TV weight evaluation, it should noted that the Hensley Arrow adds another 75lbs above the weight of a standard WDH (supported by the TV).


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