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Old 04-17-2016, 09:58 PM   #21
BCK
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Need-a-vacation

It gives you the tt GVW. When you subtract the total of just the TV without the tt from the total of all axles including the tt it equals the trailer GVW. The wdh has no effect on the total weight of the entire rig only on how it is distributed accross the axles.
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:30 PM   #22
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Ok. Time to eat a slice or two of humble pie.

Post above edited to take out comments about tongue weight. (Next time I will fact check before posting instead of after). Tongue weight is not changed by a wdh only how the total payload is distributed accross the axles.
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Old 04-18-2016, 02:32 AM   #23
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BCK & need a vacation....

Both of you gentlemen are right on points of the discussion. Obviously I wouldn't do this process with trucks waiting to use the scale. If 1 pulled up, I'd go to the truck driver and tell him I'll be out of the way in a couple of minutes, and I don't think that would be a problem. I wouldn't leave the trailer at all. The longest time would be rehooking the chains.

The CAT scales are definitely long enough to put the trailer jack on pad 1 and the axles on pad 2. That would give the tongue weight and the TT axle weight, combined to give the trailer gross weight. I would then go to a space and drop the trailer, and just weigh the truck, to get a solid gross and axle weight of it. I'd double check the numbers, but I shouldn't see any difference between them.

BCK, a WDH, does affect axle weights, that's the whole reason for using them. If you look at my weight ticket, my steer axle is over by 20#, and my other axles are way under. By keeping the trailer loaded EXACTLY the same way, the only solution would be to add a link to the number of links attached to the bar under load. That will add weight to the drive axle and take weight off the steer, and add a little to the trailer. I've got some pics of the TV & TT, and you can see the nose of the trailer is a tad high. I'm going to add that link next time I hook up, and see how it looks. I think the numbers will be better balanced, and it should pull a little better.
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Scale ticket.jpg   IMG_1084.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2016, 02:46 AM   #24
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I'd like to thank the both of you for adding to this. It made me aware of some miscalculations of weights that I didn't realize until just now. I may be adjusting the WDH more than I first thought.

Guess I need a better pencil sharpener
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:55 AM   #25
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Need-a-vacation

It gives you the tt GVW. When you subtract the total of just the TV without the tt from the total of all axles including the tt it equals the trailer GVW. The wdh has no effect on the total weight of the entire rig only on how it is distributed accross the axles.
BCK,

That definitely is one way to get the total loaded trailer weight, no doubt. I know you edited the post in regards to figuring the tw, it was only the tw I was referring to. I started using using the gross and net wording at times because there have been some who believe the tw is that weight on the tv once the wd bars are latched up. Whether it's right or wrong, in my crazy thinking if you look at it that way, there is actually a gross tw, as weighed by a scale under the coupler, and the net tw which is what is added to the tv axles with the wd bars latched up. Is one way or the other right, not sure. Or maybe both ways are correct due to what is looked at when checking all axle weights, gcw, tw, etc.

Again, my crazy thought is when posting actual loaded trailer weights (even though we all pack differently to an extent) is to help those asking about how much trailer "X" weighs loaded, it may be a little misleading by only posting the "net" tw, if that makes sense. I have always read and understood you should still go by the gross tw in regards to you receiver hitch rating.

Kev & BCK,

All here to learn in one way or another, right! All good. Just trying to post as I understand things.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:09 AM   #26
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kevcarr59,

Welcome to JOF

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevcarr59 View Post
snip...... the only solution would be to add a link to the number of links attached to the bar under load. That will add weight to the drive axle and take weight off the steer, and add a little to the trailer.....snip
I believe you may find by relieving the WDH spring bar load (increasing chain links "under tension")..., this would result in a little TT axle(s) weight reduction (gross TT weight reduction).

Bob
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:32 AM   #27
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Kev,

Adding a link under tension will reduce the steer axle, increase the drive axle, and as Rustic posted, decrease the ta a little. That may get you to level, but if not you may need to drop the hitch head a hole in the shank.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:28 AM   #28
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Great discussion. Great to hear different thoughts. Here is a really good article from etrailer about how wd hitches work.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx#Choosing
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:25 PM   #29
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Tongue Weight

The scenario I used with my son with us was to add about the max I would EXPECT to load into the truck cab. When the shop guy set up the WDH he did the measurements and everything supposedly checked out. With my trucking experience, and seeing that the TT nose is a little high, adding a some weight toward the rear compartment, and adding a link on the bar chain, should drop the nose a little bit, and add some weight to the drive axle.

TRUCK:

GFAWR: 3100#
GRAWR: 3660#
GVWR : 6600#
TOW CAPACITY: 8000#
GCWR : 13000#

TRAILER:

YELLOW TAG EMPTY WEIGHT: 4685#
GROSS WEIGHT: 6500#

Looking at the scale ticket, I'm 20# over on the steer, 200# light on drive, and way under on TA. I don't know if I'll be able to take enough off steer to be able to add a significant amount to trailer & drive axle. My truck, as it's in the picture, doesn't squat much, and I think I want to keep the ball height where it is. If I go down a hole, about 1", and then add some drive axle weight by adding a link, it might be too big of a swing???

Thoughts????

My target numbers are 3000# FA, 3500#, DA, and about 58/5900#TA...

REALISTIC???

Might be an interesting conversation around the campfire with a moderate amount of cold, adult beverages.....
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:07 PM   #30
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Quote:
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snip........ My target numbers are 3000# FA, 3500#, DA, and about 58/5900#TA... [I]REALISTIC???........ snip
kevcarr59,

Unless I missed it in your posts, I don't see reference to your TV's Front Axle weight with the TT "unhitched"......, because this would be your TV's front axle target weight with the TT "hitched" and WDH engaged.

I guess my question is how does the TV's front axle CAT weight of 3,120lbs under "hitched" with WDH engaged compare to your TV's front axle weight when "unhitched"....., or is the 3,000lb target weight you mentioned the "unhitched" FA weight?

Just a little unusual reaching the GFAWR before the GRAWR......, or might just be the nature of the particular 2WD suspension (in lieu of 4WD).

I assume you are aware of the CAT scale 40lb plus/minus tolerance.

Bob
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:23 PM   #31
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Loosening your spring bars off a link should do it. The tighter they are the more weight transfers from the tv rear to front axle.

If you loosen it up a link and reweigh post the numbers. Will be interesting to see how the numbers change.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:08 PM   #32
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TV Weight

It's gonna be a while before I can get to take the trailer back to the scale. Each of the 2 times I've pulled it the LR tandem has been throwing grease, so it's in the shop. The tech said it's a 4 week timeline, and if Jayco has to decide if warranty will cover it. I'm hoping it should since it doesn't have a 100 miles on it.

I'll keep this thread going & keep you guys informed as to progress.
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:14 PM   #33
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It's Back Home

I finally got the trailer back home, and did get to go by the scales. Let me get the pics of the scale tickets uploaded and we'll go from there...
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Old 05-04-2016, 01:40 PM   #34
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We have the same TT, and TV is 2007 Ram 1500, but got the 5.7L motor with 3.92 rear.
Towing is no problem, got brake control and WDH. Don't see the need for 3/4 ton truck, but many would disagree...

Larry J
2015 SLX 264bhw
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:12 AM   #35
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Scale Tickets

The planets finally aligned and I've got the scale tickets on the computer. The first is the curb weight of the truck, then the combo. All the numbers look good, but we need to get the trailer loaded with our stuff, and see what the numbers really tell us.

Some of the pertinent numbers: FA 3100# RA 3660# GVWR 6600# Gross trailer 6500# GCWR 13,100#

Don't know why the pics flip 90* like that??? Anybody know the solution???
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EMPTY TRUCK.jpg   EMPTY COMBO WEIGHT.jpg  
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:36 AM   #36
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Numbers look ok, but once loaded you definitely will be right at your limit it looks like for the RAR. Not sure what your manual states, but you could readjust the wdh so you have a little more weight transferred to the fa. You are 180lbs light on the fa the way you are set up now with an empty trailer. That probably will change depending on how you load the tt.

Just watch how you load the tt, especially if it has a front pass through storage. You may not be able to load much in the truck bed either. The CAT scale is your friend as you know. Once your loaded up for a trip with all the typical passengers that will join, if you weight 3 times like is explained in my CAT scale how to signature link, you can find out your loaded tw as well.
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:52 PM   #37
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Weights

One of the good things that I did with this weight trip was I had the inverter generator in the bed with some of the odd & ends that I can put in the rear storage. I will be adding a propane tank, possibly, a 5 gallon gas, but the heaviest thing is the fiberglass bed cap. It has to weight 100 pounds, if it weighs an ounce. I think the security factor is worth it though.

We have a pass thru in the front, but the back storage is just under the bunks on the curb side, so I'm guessing the black/grey water tanks are on the road side. By filling those tanks up, plus the fresh water, showed it added a bunch of weight to the travel trailer. You would think they could have a larger door for the rear storage compartment. Going to have to change some storage tub choices.

I did check the bars and I have the 750# bars for the WDH. A little side question, if I were to get the 1000# bars, what effect would they have on the system?? The rear fender clearance did change, significantly??, not sure. Next time I'll have the tape measure with me, and a little notebook. I guess that would have really been smart to do the first time I went to the scale when it had a lot of weight in the trailer.
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:39 AM   #38
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One of the good things that I did with this weight trip was I had the inverter generator in the bed with some of the odd & ends that I can put in the rear storage. I will be adding a propane tank, possibly, a 5 gallon gas, but the heaviest thing is the fiberglass bed cap. It has to weight 100 pounds, if it weighs an ounce. I think the security factor is worth it though.

We have a pass thru in the front, but the back storage is just under the bunks on the curb side, so I'm guessing the black/grey water tanks are on the road side. By filling those tanks up, plus the fresh water, showed it added a bunch of weight to the travel trailer. You would think they could have a larger door for the rear storage compartment. Going to have to change some storage tub choices.

I did check the bars and I have the 750# bars for the WDH. A little side question, if I were to get the 1000# bars, what effect would they have on the system?? The rear fender clearance did change, significantly??, not sure. Next time I'll have the tape measure with me, and a little notebook. I guess that would have really been smart to do the first time I went to the scale when it had a lot of weight in the trailer.
Are you looking at buying a fiberglass tonneau cover, or a cab high truck cap/topper? Not sure what the fiberglass tonneau covers weigh, but if a truck topper they actually weigh about 200lbs. Reconsider this before you load the trailer up and weigh the combo again, reasoning below.

The gas can and propane tank (guessing a 20lb tank) will add about 70lbs to the bed, plus say the 100lbs for a tonneau cover. That's already 170lbs when you are only 180lbs below your RAR before loading the pass through up. From the weight slips it does look like you could readjust the wdh to transfer a little more weight to the trucks front axle. That could help. From the way the numbers look, you will probably need to readjust the wdh once the truck and trailer is all loaded up for a trip. Do not worry about the truck sagging in the rear. Go by the owners manual to see what Ford recommends. Not sure about the '01 model, but newer models it was suggested to return the front axle back to unloaded weight. So if the front axle weighs 3000lbs (truck only), then weighs 2700lbs once the tt is hooked up (but without the wd bars!), you want to adjust the wdh so when the wd bars are latched up the front axle weight is about 3000lbs again. Follow my signature links for a ton of wdh info.

Just looked up the '01 F150 manual. It states to return the front axle back to the unhooked weight like I described above. Verify in your owners manual!!!

Filling the tanks (fresh, grey, and black) does add a fair amount of weight. Water weighs about 8lbs per gallon. Filling a 30g fresh tank would add about 240lbs alone, plus what ever the black and gray tanks could possibly add. Most usually don't travel with the fresh tank filled AND the black/grey tanks filled. Most will usually drain the fresh while camping, then dump the black/grey tanks on the way out of the cg. The black/grey tanks are between the frame rails of the tt under the floor, probably the same for your fresh tank. The rear storage floor under the bunk is actually the floor you walk on inside the tt. It is not below the trailer so to speak. That is why the door size is limited, since the bunk itself limits the top height. Storage door sizes are one of the things I compared when we were shopping last year. Maybe crazy, but I compared those and even axle ratings.

Once you have the truck and trailer loaded up, for a trip, go hit the CAT scales on the way to the cg so you have the family weight in the truck also. Once you figure out the actual loaded tw you will find out if your 750lb wd bars are enough, or if you need to buy the 1000lb bars. That is something you don't want to really guess at since you already have a wdh set. May as well weigh it first to find out. But if I had to guess, since you are at a "net" tw (once th wd bars are latched up) of 540lbs you will probably be very close to 750lbs. It will all depend on what is loaded in the front pass through, if you travel with fresh water or not, and what exactly is in the truck bed behind the axle (Reese states to include this weight as well, not sure about other wdh manufactures).

Follow the CAT scale how to link in my signature. You want to weigh three times to be able to figure the actual loaded tw.

From the way it looks you will probably be at, or possibly over the trucks gvwr. If the family was not in the truck that alone could possibly put you near the gvwr before loading the trailer up (the additional tw once loaded).
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WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:07 AM   #39
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Weight II

Thanks, need...

On post #23 it has the pic of the scale ticket with a lot of weight in the truck and trailer. The truck has always been weighed with the FBglass top in place. I really wouldn't consider going on a trip without it. With my wife & son in the truck, that would be the MOST weight we'd ever have in the cab. He was significant ballast, ~ 400#, definitely a big boy, so I know when we load & go, our cab weight should be fine. Those weight numbers are with the WDH having 3 links free, and I really should have done an adjustment at that time.

Even with all the water weight, I have plenty of TT axle weight capacity available. In the pics the rear doesn't look like it's squatting at all, and the TT is a little nose-high. I was thinking about dropping the ball mount a hole lower in the mount, but thought that might drop it down too much. On adding a link under tension, it's added enough DA weight and taken enough off the steer, but the added squat isn't something that I couldn't live with. My biggest concern is how to distribute the rear storage weight side to side, since the empty waste tanks are on the road side.

I'm running 10-ply Dextero's on the truck, so I know they are definitely up to the task. I had already pulled a U-Haul back from Florida a few years ago, but I doubt it was half the weight I'm pulling now. When we load for this next trip, I'm going to be loading a lot more in the rear cubby than this last time. I guess this is just a trial & error process.
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