Plumbing Repair Help Needed

[tperk100]

Pics attached. Click to enlarge. I had to remove the toilet and the permanently installed panel from the bath cabinet to access this area. This is the low point drain area. The Tee fitting for the hot water (pink Pipe) is cracked and leaking. Due to the location under the cabinet, the recess into the pan, and the short pieces of pipe involved, this is proving to be a very difficult repair (for a 65 yr old with arthritis).

Most importantly (this is where I need some good advice), I need to figure out how to remove the factory pipe clamps. I tried to break them by twisting etc with some pliers and channel locks ....no success. Next I will try to cut them off using the pictured type of cutters. Any other suggestions here?

Then, ASSUMING I can get the old fitting loose from the pipes, and ASSUMING I will have enough room to work, I have a newer style "push-on" 1/2 inch PEX Tee fitting to install. If the push on does not work, I could also install a traditional 1/2 inch Tee (like the defective one). I have one of those PEX ring crimping tools used in residential construction left over from my working days.

Any suggestions on how to make the plumbing part of this repair go as easily as possible will be greatly appreciated.

Heck, just getting the cabinet panel re-installed (it was stapled from the rear) will be nearly impossible. Will probably install if from the front and just trim out the rough (staple holed) edges. And then there is lining up those frigging toilet bolt holes and gasket......

Thanks for any assistance.

[Grumpy]

Use a dremel tool if you have one makes removing the clamps very easy. Also the slip on fittings work great, just besure the end of the tubing is cut square.

[norty1]

Looks like you have a challenge due to space constraints. I have had good luck scoring the rings with a small hack saw. If you are using slip on connectors and have the slack, I would consider just cutting them off. It is hard to tell from the picture.
Good luck with the repair and keep us posted, That panel could be reattached with some contact cement in a pinch.

[Hitch Pin]

If the water line is indented from the steel clamps, the push fitting may not seal.

[Charolaisbreeder]

From a 60 yr old with arthritis and inherited joint disease - cut the line and go to Home Depot and get Shark brand fittings for the size tubing you have. Get some extra tubing of the same size. Shark fittings are not cheap but they WORK!!!! (Pick up the correct size release unit (cheap) and this will let you release the Shark fitting and reuse it if you make a mistake)

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Use a dremel tool if you have one makes removing the clamps very easy. Also the slip on fittings work great, just besure the end of the tubing is cut square.

Here's a second vote for using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. It can get into really small places and does not weigh much. Use goggles, cutting the stainless steel makes lots of sparks. Done carefully, you can even re-use the same pipe.

Judging from the picture, I think my approach would be to cut the clamps at the leaky tee. If you can re-use the pipe, you can just slip a new tee into place. I like stainless steel clamps and since you have the tool I'd suggest using them. It looks like if the clamp nibs are oriented out there is enough room to tighten the clamps with the tool.

[tperk100]

Thank guys! The dremel is an excellent idea that I had not thought of...even though I own 2 of them and about 100 attachments!!

I also think I will use the same type of Tee that I am replacing (very cheap!), since I have the residential style crimping tool (assuming I have enough working room to use the tool)......and now that I realize I can "uncrimp" with the dremel if I have to.

Since my trailer is 1.5 hours away from home, I will also be prepared to use a push on Tee if necessary.

Thanks again for all the advice. Will post up results later.

[tperk100]

CASE CLOSED.....thanks to your good advice.

I used Dremel to cut clamps. Still had to cut pipes to get out the defective Tee. Used my crimp tool for most new fittings. Due to confined work area, had to use hose clamps on the new Tee. Pic of repair attached.

The other pic shows the cab and toilet that I have to deal with. The cab panel was stapled from the rear. I had to knock it out from the front using a 2x4 flat around the perimeter to prevent damage to panel. My plan is to install it on the OUTSIDE and to trim it out with some sort of molding etc to hide the damage from the staples. I will figure out how to make it removable with very little trouble in the future.

Then I have to line up those toilet bolts and the gasket,, a real PITA.

Thanks again for your help.

[Crabman]

But toilet work is always soooooooo much fun!

[eldermike]

Good that you have it fixed. I have redesigned a few plumbing routings in the past just so I could get to it. IOW, cut the whole thing out and build it over above the floor but still under the cabinet where I can reach it.

[Jimw606]

Looks like a good job.

[OnTheGo]

As far as making the cover removable in the future, see if hook-and-loop (Velcro) would work. I have used it for many things in different TT's. It's holds and hides well.

[Camper_bob]

Another idea for making the panel removable: use picture frame for the "molding" around the panel, make the top piece removable, then you can slide the panel down into its spot, just like sliding the back into a picture frame. If you have the space, this could be a nice solution.

[tperk100]

The picture frame type of trim is exactly what I had in mind.....for the same reason you suggest.....removability in the future.

Thanks