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Old 04-21-2015, 06:22 PM   #21
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If the new type shut down with a pipe or hose break, are we in fact living with old info and scares ? I do close one tank (just in case), but see no real reason not to cool the refer with gas. Do I observe proper care with flames and fumes, you bet.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:00 AM   #22
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almost burnt down

My trailer almost burnt Friday night.

Have a 2013 Eagle 32foot, can't remember the model number. Dual slide outside rear kitchen.

Got back from pool at campground Friday night to find the trailer dark and full of toxic smoke, got the dogs out and found the shoreline plug smoking and melting where it screws on to the connection.

30 amp power from pole and only AC was running.

Not a happy camper, pun intended.

Will see what the dealer has to say today.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:07 AM   #23
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Did you have an EMS connected?
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:33 AM   #24
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Did you have an EMS connected?
I will say no, because I am not sure what an EMS is.

If it's a surge protector they are built in to the pole at my campground.

I have the trailer in a seasonal spot, same place its been for a year now.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #25
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Let us know what the dealer has to say as it may help others in the future
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:03 AM   #26
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It's a system to protect your camper. Make sure you let the CG office know what happened just in case. Have them check their surge protector and make sure it's working properly and get their names. If it is and they've had no other complaints, it may be your camper or power cord. Sounds like it's on their end though.

For the future, invest in a electrical management system..regardless of THEIR protection. It would've prevented this.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:15 PM   #27
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when I pulled mine out all the way, I wrapped some tape around the end so I knew when it was completely out...
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:17 PM   #28
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It's a system to protect your camper. Make sure you let the CG office know what happened just in case. Have them check their surge protector and make sure it's working properly and get their names. If it is and they've had no other complaints, it may be your camper or power cord. Sounds like itc's on their end though.

For the future, invest in a electrical management system..regardless of THEIR protection. It would've prevented this.
Talked to the office already, they have had no complaints and there are 2 electricians that stay at the campground that I spoke with.
They both say the camper was pulling too much power and that's why the wire shorted out.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:17 PM   #29
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Low Voltage under a load will cause overheating of electrical components too. It doesn't have to be an overload situation or faulty wiring. The campground may not have sufficient power for amount being used.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:01 PM   #30
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Talked to my dealer....

They want to see the trailer to decide if its a warranty issue, understandable.

They quoted me almost $500 just for a new shoreline cord and receptacle.

Trailer is about 2hrs away from the dealer in a permanent seasonal site.

I might just get the mobile RV repair guy to fix it and not take to the dealer.

Any thoughts??
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:49 PM   #31
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Talked to my dealer....

They want to see the trailer to decide if its a warranty issue, understandable.

They quoted me almost $500 just for a new shoreline cord and receptacle.

Trailer is about 2hrs away from the dealer in a permanent seasonal site.

I might just get the mobile RV repair guy to fix it and not take to the dealer.

Any thoughts??
Call Jayco and see if they will authorize a mobile repair guy, they have been known to do it before. Even if to just diagnose the issue and determine if warranty coverage is possible.

I'm no electrician, but I have to agree with some of the other posts, this sounds like a low voltage situation and the trailer pulled higher amps to account for the low voltage. If this was in fact the case, a EMS unit should have caught the issue and killed power before it was an issue. My EMS has detected this exact situation two time previously and shut off power to my trailer.
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:44 AM   #32
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I have a 50 to 30 AMP adapter. I wonder if I should use the 50 AMP service when available?
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:29 AM   #33
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I have a 50 to 30 AMP adapter. I wonder if I should use the 50 AMP service when available?
If you have a 50 amp cord then I would use 50 amp service when available


But if your cord is rated for 30 amps than I would NEVER connect to a 50 amp service That is an invitation to disaster
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:57 AM   #34
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Hooking your 30A to a 50A with the adapter is fine. The adapter only uses one leg of the 50A service, so you are back to 120V, and although the service is limited to 50A at the power pole breaker, your cord will only see the current demanded by your rig, and your rig is limited by a 30A main breaker, so the cord won't see over 30A. I do this often, as many 30A female plugs, at campgrounds, are worn out and loose, where the less used 50A plugs are still in good shape.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:35 AM   #35
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Hooking your 30A to a 50A with the adapter is fine. The adapter only uses one leg of the 50A service, so you are back to 120V, and although the service is limited to 50A at the power pole breaker, your cord will only see the current demanded by your rig, and your rig is limited by a 30A main breaker, so the cord won't see over 30A. I do this often, as many 30A female plugs, at campgrounds, are worn out and loose, where the less used 50A plugs are still in good shape.
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Suggest that you go back and read post 22 and on this happened to a 30 Amp Cord plugged into a 30 Amp circuit No breaker blew

Now imagine what would or could have happened if he plugged his 30 Amp cord into a 50 Amp circuit
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:27 AM   #36
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Hooking your 30A to a 50A with the adapter is fine. The adapter only uses one leg of the 50A service, so you are back to 120V, and although the service is limited to 50A at the power pole breaker, your cord will only see the current demanded by your rig, and your rig is limited by a 30A main breaker, so the cord won't see over 30A. I do this often, as many 30A female plugs, at campgrounds, are worn out and loose, where the less used 50A plugs are still in good shape.
And to add to Bedrock's admonition:

50A will be available to the 30A cord! If there is a short inside the RV, the cord is NOT capable of carrying the 50A it will take to trip the breaker.

Simply put. DO. NOT. Connect 30A Equipment into 50A supplies. It'll work fine until something goes wrong. Then fire, not a tripped breaker.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:32 AM   #37
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Good to know. And I have a dogbone adapter to allow me to plug into a 50 amp assuming a 30 was not available.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:36 AM   #38
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If the dogbone includes a 30A breaker, use it. If not, it is a disaster waiting to happen.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:39 AM   #39
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I'm pretty sure it has no breaker. I'll be tossing it. THANKS !
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:51 PM   #40
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Actually BEDRCK46, Nothing different would have happened. The amount of current drawn was obviously less than 30 Amps, as the Neither the pedatal 30A nor the trailer 30A tripped. Having a 50 amp breaker at the pole would not have FED the rig more power. The load is based on what the trailer draws, and not pushed by the size of the feed available. Whatever got hot and smoked, did so on LESS than a 30A draw. If it would have exceeded 30A, one of the breakers would have tripped. Now, the only plausible reasoning not to use the adapter, is what if something downstream from the 50A pedestal breaker, but before the rigs 30A breaker shorted? (Cord is the only thing between) Simple answer is that although the power cable is not designed for 50A, if you short the cable, you will likely draw considerably more than 50A, and trip the pedestal breaker. However, you could argue that a short could happen, and a defective breaker would not trip. Yes, possible, but that is possible on EVERY circuit in any trailer or home. I have a 400 amp service at my home, doesn't mean I use it all. The LOAD determines the current flow, and not the available capacity.
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