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04-21-2015, 08:10 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New Richmond
Posts: 247
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Power cord extended out of TT
Noticed recent posts on power cord 'plug' melting, and lots regarding surge protection. Also of importance is to extent your power cord completely out of TT when in use. This is important especially if running AC etc. Per our dealer service rep the cord itself can over heat and melt when still bundled up in the TT. Assume this have been posted sometime in the past, but might be a good reminder.
Just another common sense thing often ignored like turning off your propane bottles while traveling (so scary so many gotta leave on for frig operation while traveling when every instruction sayes "turn off" at bottles - seen alot of 'so called justification' for leaving on recently).
Larry J
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04-21-2015, 09:52 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Dickinson
Posts: 481
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Typically the only thing that is going to cause a power cord of any kind to melt is trying to overload it with accessive current, I.E. - trying to run 50 amps worth of items on a 30a cord. The shoreline cord for a TT, SHOULD be rated and sized to handle the full load of everything in the TT running together. The individual breakers in the unit should detect an over current per each circiut and trip if that happens. I can tell from experience that on my previous TT with 50a service I could run two 15k btu a/c units, the microwave and the wifes hairdryer all at the same time and never had the shoreline cord even get close to being warm.
In regards to running to fridge on gas while in tow. Is it recommended - NO, do 100's of people do it dailey without incident - YES, myself being one of them. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then don't.
__________________
2015 Pinnacle 36FBTS w/Anderson Ultimate Hitch
2015 F250 SD Platinum 4x4 - 6.7L PSD
Titan 50 Gal. Fuel Tank
Slotted and Dimpled Brake Rotors
Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Airbags with WirelessAIR Controller
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04-21-2015, 10:16 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Fraser
Posts: 21
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I went to pull my power cord out for the first time, just to check it out. Dealer said it was "about 20 feet" , it was only 17.
Then I noticed that the cover separated from the RV. What is this ring with a door called? Another warranty issue.
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2015 White Hawk 20MRB
2006 F150 SCREW
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04-21-2015, 10:45 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eightOsix
I went to pull my power cord out for the first time, just to check it out. Dealer said it was "about 20 feet" , it was only 17.
Then I noticed that the cover separated from the RV. What is this ring with a door called? Another warranty issue.
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I've heard people call it a "power cord hatch & cover"
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2013 Jayco Eagle 328 RLTS
2021 Keystone Montana 3121RL
2013 F350 6.7L 4x4 CCLB
W/Air Lift air bags (front & rear)
Equal-I-Zer™ WDH & B&W Companion
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04-21-2015, 10:50 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: White Salmon, Wa.
Posts: 550
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I replaced mine with the 30amp twist lock type because my cord got tied in a knot and I just about ripped my power cord hatch off trying to get cord out.
__________________
Randy
Washington, State.
2011 Jayco G2 25RKS
2004 Dodge 2500 CTD
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04-21-2015, 10:53 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRT
Typically the only thing that is going to cause a power cord of any kind to melt is trying to overload it with accessive current, I.E. - trying to run 50 amps worth of items on a 30a cord.
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When this happened to me on the last TT, the plug melted around the HOT prong (30Amp Plug). There was no way at all that the TT was calling for 50Amps, the 30 amp main breaker would have tripped. Which it did on a few other occasions with the AC and Microwave kicking in at the same time.
When I noticed there was a problem the shore power plug (pedestal end) was extremely HOT to the touch. At the time there was nothing on but the TV and a couple laptops. No AC, water heater... The shore power plug was a loose fit in the pedestal. I put the 30/50 amp adapter on and plugged it into the 50 amp service and never had another issue. The plug did not get hot again.
The other thing that needs to be taken into consideration for heating up the connector is if there is a loose/worn connection (prong fitting loosely into the pedestal receptacle) which increases the resistance of the circuit causing a lot of heat to be generated and the wire connected to that prong will act as a heat sink and transfer the heat along the wire.
Just my thoughts,
Don
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04-21-2015, 11:00 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bartonville
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRT
Typically the only thing that is going to cause a power cord of any kind to melt is trying to overload it with accessive current, I.E. - trying to run 50 amps worth of items on a 30a cord. The shoreline cord for a TT, SHOULD be rated and sized to handle the full load of everything in the TT running together. The individual breakers in the unit should detect an over current per each circuit and trip if that happens. I can tell from experience that on my previous TT with 50a service I could run two 15k btu a/c units, the microwave and the wifes hairdryer all at the same time and never had the shoreline cord even get close to being warm.
In regards to running to fridge on gas while in tow. Is it recommended - NO, do 100's of people do it dailey without incident - YES, myself being one of them. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then don't.
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TexasRT is correct - unless you consider that things don't always work properly.
There have been incidents when the breakers did not trip and the TT burned, due to this situation. A few days before we arrived at a campground in KY (on vacation) one year, there was such an incident. Someone had a 30 amp TT plugged into a 50 amp receptacle, using an adapter, and the breakers in their TT did not trip when the power cord overheated due to too much load. The folks left for the day with the A/C running (on a 100+ degree day) and the power cord overheated, the sheathing melted, then wires contacted each other on the portion that was left stuffed inside the trailer. That shouldn't happen, but it did. Fortunately, they were not there and the fire dep't was able to extinguish the fire before it damaged any other trailers. As a result, that example has prompted me to always extend my cord all the way out. One thing to consider, though - don't let it drape on the ground. Coil it up and hang it somewhere (outside) BELOW the level of the cord port. Hanging it higher will let water follow it inside the trailer, if it rains. Draping it on the ground lets it act as a highway for ants and other undesirable critters to crawl inside your trailer.
As for the fridge running - I have done it for years without incident. I turn it off at fuel stations and whenever laws dictate (in tunnels, mostly). I asked my Jayco dealer during the PDI on my new trailer, last month, and they said, "everyone does it. It is OK." The owner's manual says not to, but working for a large manufacturere, I'm sure that's just the usual CYA statements. Lawyers and insurance companies make them say that.
I didn't used to - until one year on vacation we got to the campground after a long travel day and the fridge was at 50 degrees. Didn't know how long it had been that way, so we threw out all meat, eggs, etc, to ensure we didn't get sick while traveling. $50+ at the grocery store restocked the fridge. Since then, I let the "Auto" feature do what it was designed to do - switch to propane when I unplug from shore power.
However - let your conscience be your guide. As TexasRT said, is a personal decision.
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Scoutr2 (Mike)
2015 Jay Flight 32RLDS Elite
2012 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab LTZ (6.6L Duramax/Allison)
Equalizer Hitch (1200# bars)
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04-21-2015, 11:01 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New Richmond
Posts: 247
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I like comments regarding loads etc. The idea of pulling the entire power cord out to me is a pain specially when trying to stuff back in. But probably will do this if so hot that going to run AC continually as it is a 'service manager' recommendation.
I agree that anyone can run their rig as they 'think okay' (not necessarily correct). Glad so many have faith in their lines and tanks going down the road and are using their propane and NOT having any issues, just doesn't seem to me to be a really good or safe option and I can get by just fine with very little hassle not doing so.
Larry J
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04-21-2015, 11:28 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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Another benefit of extending the full length of the power cord, not just the length you need, is that it helps keep the cord from tangleing and binding in the compartment. My cord has developed a bit of a memory and rolls back the exact same way each time and it has become very easy with time to put the cord away.
That said -- I am still planning on converting to a removable cord at some point.
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2020 Ram 1500 5.7L
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison (Sold)
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2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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04-21-2015, 11:43 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRT
Typically the only thing that is going to cause a power cord of any kind to melt is trying to overload it with accessive current, I.E. - trying to run 50 amps worth of items on a 30a cord. The shoreline cord for a TT, SHOULD be rated and sized to handle the full load of everything in the TT running together. The individual breakers in the unit should detect an over current per each circiut and trip if that happens. I can tell from experience that on my previous TT with 50a service I could run two 15k btu a/c units, the microwave and the wifes hairdryer all at the same time and never had the shoreline cord even get close to being warm.
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TexasRT, the one thing you are missing on your comment about a 50 amp power supply verses a 30 amp, is the number of power legs. The 50 amp cord, has 2 legs of power each at 50 amps, for a total of 100 amps. Whereas the 30 amp power supplies are a single leg, for a total of 30 amps. So the 50 amp service has over 3 times the available power. That is why you can run everything all day long and not have any issues with the cord over heating.
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04-21-2015, 11:58 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Dickinson
Posts: 481
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Yes I was referring to when things are right.
Mustang65 & Scoutr2 both bring up good points. It's always a good idea to check the power outlet on the CG pedistal for proper plug fit, signs of bad wear or previous heat. It is very unfornuate for the folks with the fire, always hate to hear those stories. That's alot to go wrong at once, just proves weird things CAN happen.
__________________
2015 Pinnacle 36FBTS w/Anderson Ultimate Hitch
2015 F250 SD Platinum 4x4 - 6.7L PSD
Titan 50 Gal. Fuel Tank
Slotted and Dimpled Brake Rotors
Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Airbags with WirelessAIR Controller
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04-21-2015, 12:16 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Dickinson
Posts: 481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
TexasRT, the one thing you are missing on your comment about a 50 amp power supply verses a 30 amp, is the number of power legs. The 50 amp cord, has 2 legs of power each at 50 amps, for a total of 100 amps. Whereas the 30 amp power supplies are a single leg, for a total of 30 amps. So the 50 amp service has over 3 times the available power. That is why you can run everything all day long and not have any issues with the cord over heating.
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You are correct, I just didn't feel the need to go into it. It's probable best that most people just think of it as 50a or 30a respectfully.
The next question will be why don't they call it a 100a cord then.
__________________
2015 Pinnacle 36FBTS w/Anderson Ultimate Hitch
2015 F250 SD Platinum 4x4 - 6.7L PSD
Titan 50 Gal. Fuel Tank
Slotted and Dimpled Brake Rotors
Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Airbags with WirelessAIR Controller
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04-21-2015, 12:55 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Jacinto, Calif
Posts: 459
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So what do you guys do keep the refrig cool on an trip that takes about 7 or 8 hours??
I run with mine on but maybe I'm doing something wrong
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If you are born once you will die twice
If you are born twice you will die once
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04-21-2015, 01:27 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Sierra Vista
Posts: 79
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I run with mine on also. Have for years, and no problems. If you tow with a gasser, may want to shut it off for fueling, or at least pay attention to where the fridge is located as related to the fueling operation, breezes etc. I use diesel, and fridge is in the back of trailer, so I don't worry then either. I like my perishables to stay "unpariched". Not to mention ice cold beer upon arrival!
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04-21-2015, 03:26 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Loris
Posts: 253
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……...I replaced mine with the 30amp twist lock type because my cord got tied in a knot and I just about ripped my power cord hatch off trying to get cord out.
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Do you know the make and model of your 30 amp receptacle you installed? And did it cover the hole left by the other cord pull out? I had the same thing happen on our last TT. Fortunately, I could get to it from the inside and untangle it. Not so with the one we have now. It would be a chore to get to this one.
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Randy, Karen & Abby (Pom-a-Poo)
2014 Eagle HT 27.5RLTS
2015 F250 Super duty 6.2L full trailering pkg.
Loris, South Carolina.
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04-21-2015, 03:34 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rryman
Do you know the make and model of your 30 amp receptacle you installed? And did it cover the hole left by the other cord pull out? I had the same thing happen on our last TT. Fortunately, I could get to it from the inside and untangle it. Not so with the one we have now. It would be a chore to get to this one.
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Here is a link to my conversion if you are interested:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...albums564.html
Don
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04-21-2015, 03:36 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tucson
Posts: 316
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We pull our power cord all the way out when hooking up at home because we need to, to get it to the plug-in, so that's what we're used to doing. Also run with the propane on for the 'fridge when we travel.
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04-21-2015, 05:19 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: north az
Posts: 305
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Question: What would these new type propane valves do ( the ones you must open very slow to get them to open up) should you rip a hose or pipe loose? I also fully extend my power chord. It is also kept off the ground. To me, it stays cooler, cleaner, out of any water, and no chance of being a ground point for lighting.
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04-21-2015, 05:36 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Loris
Posts: 253
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Thanks for the pics, Mustang, nice looking installation you got there.
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Randy, Karen & Abby (Pom-a-Poo)
2014 Eagle HT 27.5RLTS
2015 F250 Super duty 6.2L full trailering pkg.
Loris, South Carolina.
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04-21-2015, 06:05 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Dickinson
Posts: 481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkhillbilly
Question: What would these new type propane valves do ( the ones you must open very slow to get them to open up) should you rip a hose or pipe loose? I also fully extend my power chord. It is also kept off the ground. To me, it stays cooler, cleaner, out of any water, and no chance of being a ground point for lighting.
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They are designed to automatically shut off the flow if the gas is escaping to fast.
__________________
2015 Pinnacle 36FBTS w/Anderson Ultimate Hitch
2015 F250 SD Platinum 4x4 - 6.7L PSD
Titan 50 Gal. Fuel Tank
Slotted and Dimpled Brake Rotors
Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Airbags with WirelessAIR Controller
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