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06-18-2014, 01:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Louisville Area
Posts: 408
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Power cord issues
I have a 23mbh and I was wondering if there was an easier way to handle the power cord? It seems like all the trailers I have seen just use the method of shoving the power coward I to a little area. When I do this it sometimes does not want to go. I was wondering if anyone knew a solution to this
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John
2017 F-250 Lariat FX-4
2016 Whitehawk 27DSRL
Equalizer WDH with 10k bars
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06-18-2014, 01:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,680
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Pull the cord all the way out and check to see if it's twisted,mine can get that way sometimes.
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06-18-2014, 04:09 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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...place a slight consistent roll on the cord and "coil" it as you insert it into the box. Works for me....
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06-18-2014, 06:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,448
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x2 on the coiling idea....that is what I do.
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2013 Jayco JayFlight 26RKS
2013 Ford F150 Ecoboost FX4
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2012 Tacoma Sport DCSB / 2013 Tundra SR5 - RIP
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06-18-2014, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Yep, coil it clockwise in, counter clockwise out......, works for me.
Bob
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2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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06-18-2014, 07:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Boise
Posts: 201
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I got a kit and switched my cord to a removable one. Pushing a cold cord back in through the small opening was a pain, plus ants can use the power cord as a highway. With a removable cord the plug is sealed. I just roll up the power cord and stow it when traveling
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06-19-2014, 12:34 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Twin Falls
Posts: 930
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I bought a 25 foot 30 RV cord and use it all the time instead of messing with stuffing the cord back in. I only pull the main one out a few inches just enough to plug into it. I agree, I would like to get the kit and convert mine too.
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2011 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
2012 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 297 BHS
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06-19-2014, 07:22 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Central Missouri
Posts: 17
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Another tip is to wipe the cord with a clean rag with silicon spray on it. Lightly coating the cord will help it slip over itself when pushing back in. Using this along with the coiling method will help.
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2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - 6.0 Liter gasser - 4.10 gears - Blackbear Performance Tuned.
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06-19-2014, 01:00 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 148
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I agree the cord can be a pain,but always pull all the cord out of the well, under full load, WH AC & MICRO the coiled cord will get hot. I am thinking about converting mine to a removable kind. I will try the cord tricks to see if it helps before making the change
Happy Camping
Buckeyejim
Columbus Oh
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06-19-2014, 02:48 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyrotor
I bought a 25 foot 30 RV cord and use it all the time instead of messing with stuffing the cord back in. I only pull the main one out a few inches just enough to plug into it. I agree, I would like to get the kit and convert mine too.
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I think I recall the manual stating the cord should be completely removed from the storage box when ever used for heat reasons. There is a potential for a lot of current to be drawn through the cord and it can get very hot and can cause issues if it's in the box. I always remove the entire cord, and that has helped prevent kinks and after a few uses it seems to develop a memory on how it should recoil in the box.
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06-19-2014, 03:03 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gudde1251
Another tip is to wipe the cord with a clean rag with silicon spray on it. Lightly coating the cord will help it slip over itself when pushing back in. Using this along with the coiling method will help.
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I would think this would pick up dirt and sand while laying on the ground.. no?
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2008 Jayco 1207
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06-19-2014, 06:43 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,261
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I typically have a old rag in one hand to wipe it down (and to dry) while feeding it back into the storage area. I always have issues with my hand getting cut up on the little flappy door that wont stay up/open while doing this too. Thing has some sharp edges.
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06-23-2014, 10:55 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 163
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Easy enough to convert to a twist on shore plug. They sell kits, you can even use the power cord that came with yout trailer. Three advantages, no pulling out, no pushing in, and one less opening for critters. Let's face facts, that cover with the slor for the cord is not the best thing in the world. They should make shore power standard from factory.
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06-23-2014, 12:50 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 514
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You guys must be camping where it is cool, because after an afternoon of driving in the Texas heat or sitting in the sun, my cord will wind up anyway you want it too. I never uncoil anymore than needed to get to the pedestal. The large gauge cord should not heat up simply by use. If it is getting hot during use, something is wrong.
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06-23-2014, 01:02 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX_Arvee
You guys must be camping where it is cool, because after an afternoon of driving in the Texas heat or sitting in the sun, my cord will wind up anyway you want it too. I never uncoil anymore than needed to get to the pedestal. The large gauge cord should not heat up simply by use. If it is getting hot during use, something is wrong.
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I guess it would depend on the gage. Let's say it's 10gage high strand count wire, I think that's what most 30amp cords are made from. That would be the minimun gage for 30 amps continous use. Coiling will derate the wire because it reduces the surface area for cooling. If it were 8 gage I would agree with you but I would want to know.
My 50 amp cord is 6 gage high strand count wire which is minimun for it's use.
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2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
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06-23-2014, 04:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Louisville Area
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
...place a slight consistent roll on the cord and "coil" it as you insert it into the box. Works for me....
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How do you do this when one side is fixed and the other has to go in straight and would uncoil anyway
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John
2017 F-250 Lariat FX-4
2016 Whitehawk 27DSRL
Equalizer WDH with 10k bars
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06-23-2014, 04:41 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Louisville Area
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rog4kneer
Easy enough to convert to a twist on shore plug. They sell kits, you can even use the power cord that came with yout trailer. Three advantages, no pulling out, no pushing in, and one less opening for critters. Let's face facts, that cover with the slor for the cord is not the best thing in the world. They should make shore power standard from factory.
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Okay so I found one kit but I do not want to cut the cord. Is there a kit that will accept your plug end (without cutting it) and then plug that int a receptacle on the inside and then on the outside you have your shore power connection?
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John
2017 F-250 Lariat FX-4
2016 Whitehawk 27DSRL
Equalizer WDH with 10k bars
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06-23-2014, 04:50 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaddox
Okay so I found one kit but I do not want to cut the cord. Is there a kit that will accept your plug end (without cutting it) and then plug that int a receptacle on the inside and then on the outside you have your shore power connection?
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No. Cut the cord just long enough to terminate it into the shore power receptacle that mounts into the RV exterior wall. Install the mating cord cap on the end of the remaining portion that already has the molded 30A plug on the other end. You will still have the same length of cord that your coach came with and you'll eliminate the coiled/wadded up cord inside the compartment.
Once you convert from the dark side (permanently attached cord) you will experience freedom like never before. Come join us.
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06-23-2014, 04:57 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaddox
How do you do this when one side is fixed and the other has to go in straight and would uncoil anyway
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As you push the shore power cord back into the box - work it in a (Clockwise) circular motion pushing the cord toward the top, R, bottom, L (imagine trying to coil up the cord inside the box)
As you push in on the cord - give a light consistent CLOCKWISE twist on the cord as well. This will aid a natural coiling / stacking effect inside the box.
Good Luck
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