Power question

[ParrishCamper]

We have a 30 amp outlet in out garage.
I need to see if there is a certain length you should not exceed on a 30 amp power cord. Problem is our camper is parked on the side of the house and doesn't come close to reaching outlet with camper power cord and 20 ft extention. Can I safely add another 50 ft cord or would that cause issues?
An electrician quoted $700 to move 30 amp outlet to side of house.
Or can I plug the camper into an adapter so I can use a standard outlet already on the side of the house. I would like run AC (1 - 15k BTU on low) and fridge. Or would this cause issues to our AC over time? Would only run AC while packing and making beds. Currently is a sweat box.

[shadester]

With running the air, I would spend the money and get the 30amp installed properly. I tried everything you described and over time it didn't work out. The adapter is fine for light duty but not for air. And with the rv extension cords, just too many connections too get hot and fail overtime. It's better getting it done right and avoiding a low voltage situation that may cost a lot more in the long run.

[rkresge]

Points to ponder:

• Voltage drop for a 30-amp circuit at 50' using 10 gauge wire appears that it may be borderline at best.
• In general a 30-amp circuit requires 10 gauge copper wire, but longer runs may even need 8-gauge.
• I would recommend moving that dedicated 30-amp circuit, although that $700 figure does feel a little high. However, keep in mind that you may need a circuit breaker, wire from your breaker box, some kind of a weatherproof box, and an RV-style 30-amp socket. And depending on local codes, you may need an inspection. (RV 30-amp circuits are not the same as typical home 30-amp circuits used for appliances like dryers and water heaters.)

I see 25' 30-amp RV extension cords for $50 or less on Amazon, somewhat higher at CW. May be your best bet.



As for running the AC on a 20-amp residential circuit, ain't happening. Try it and see - you'll blow your TT's circuit breaker within seconds after the compressor kicks in. I kinda forgot myself and just tried it a couple of weeks ago. That was a whole lotta nope.


Roger

[Neo1130]

FWIW, I know my TT isn't as power hungry as yours but I run my fridge, 8,000 BTU A/C and ALL lights off of a 20A home circuit through 12AWG, 75ft extension cords... Never had a problem in the past 5 years...

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by Neo1130

FWIW, I know my TT isn't as power hungry as yours but I run my fridge, 8,000 BTU A/C and ALL lights off of a 20A home circuit through 12AWG, 75ft extension cords... Never had a problem in the past 5 years...

I did the same with my SLX 165RB, but a 15,000 btu A/C is going run around 15 amps, possibly nearly 20, all by itself. Doesn't leave much headroom. My 13.5K btu A/C popped the 20-amp home circuit breaker in in a couple of seconds. To be sure, there may have been some household load on that circuit as well.

[ODH]

First, make sure that the 30 amp circuit in your garage is not 220v. Most 30 amp circuits in a garage would be 220v for a dryer, welder, water heater, etc. Second, find a different electrician, $700 is an outrageous charge to run 30 to 40 ft of 10g Romex unless you have some very extenuating circumstances.

[Dustdevil]

For those running the AC on a 20 amp household circuit, consider that if it's on extension cords, the voltage drop is likely a big number. That AC compressor may be running on 106, 107, or 108 volts. The motor will run very hot, and its life will be cut in half for just about every 10 degrees C higher than normal operating temperature. The motor could be 20-30 degrees too hot.

[Doboy Dawg]

Originally Posted by ParrishCamper

We have a 30 amp outlet in out garage.
I need to see if there is a certain length you should not exceed on a 30 amp power cord. Problem is our camper is parked on the side of the house and doesn't come close to reaching outlet with camper power cord and 20 ft extention. Can I safely add another 50 ft cord or would that cause issues?
An electrician quoted $700 to move 30 amp outlet to side of house.
Or can I plug the camper into an adapter so I can use a standard outlet already on the side of the house. I would like run AC (1 - 15k BTU on low) and fridge. Or would this cause issues to our AC over time? Would only run AC while packing and making beds. Currently is a sweat box.

As has been posted you need to make sure the 30 amp "outlet" aka "receptacle" in your out building or garage is 30 amp 120 volt and NOT 30 amp 220 volt. The 30 amp RV service for your travel trailer is most likely 30 amp 120 volt single pole.

Thirty amp (30A) 220 volt double pole which is commonly used for household water heaters and clothes dryers will fry your RV equipment.

This is why you need an electrician. Single pole 120V power uses One Hot lead and One Neutral lead. Double pole 220v power uses Two Hot leads! Mistakingly hooking up your RV to 220v double pole power will send electric current through the 120V hot lead and neutral lead at the same time and will result in over current to your RV electrical power systems and potentially cause serious damage.

Providing your home distribution service has enough power available you should be able to use a 25' RV extension cord hooked to your RV power supply cord. It should be a minimum of 10 gauge wire.

I use a 25' ft extension cord from my shop to my RV power cord which is also 25'. My home has a 400 amp service that is split 200 amp for my shop and 200 amp for my house.

You could go 50' plus the RV cord but that is pushing it. You start getting into voltage and amperage drops due to the increased resistance of the longer wire. That is a power quality problem common in RV parks and campgrounds

[Bassdogs]

$700 is ridiculous!! I put in a 30amp shore station on a 4x4 post outside my barn. Had HD direct bury wire left over from running power to the barn so that was free for this project. The weatherproof box and necessary outlets and breakers was less than $50. This is electricity but it is not brain surgery. LIKE OTHERS HAVE SAID, THE CIRCUIT IN YOUR GARAGE IS MOST LIKEY 220 which is easy to verify by looking at the breaker in the main box. If its a double pole breaker it is 220. Its easy enough to change out the breaker and change the wiring connection to a single pole.

This would be a very small project for an electrician and the quote you got is that is what I would charge to make it worth my time to park and get out of my truck. You need to check around and find a neighbor or friend with some electrical background who would likely be able to do it for the cost of the parts and some cold beer [hold the beer until hands are out of the main breaker panel].

[RoyBraddy]

I do this all the time using a 50-foot 10-3 contractor grade YELLOW extension Cord plugged into a 20AMP Garage receptacle. I have to use a good HD RV30A-15A long dogbone adapter to get to my 30AMP Cord laying in the middle of the yard...

You should not have any problems at all. Since you have the 30A RV receptacle already installed just go pick up a RV 30A Extension Cord... I also got two of those I use here. When I bought I new POPUP trailer from a local dealer I just asked if they had a couple of those laying and they put two on them inside the the trailer. They use them all over their dealership display lot...

I have seen them for sale on the ETRAILER.com site...

Roy Ken

[SMS1115]

My RV outlet is on the side of the garage. I can not get the trailer close enough due to the septic placement. So I have a 50 foot RV 30A extension cord I got from Amazon to power my trailer. Probably could have gotten away with a 25 footer, but it was only a couple buck more for the 50 so I went with that one.

Definitely check that your outlet is a 120V 30A not a 240V 30A. 240V will kill your trailer.

[pman1088]

Take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the TT and switch it out to a 30amp RV outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being A/C current you will likely be ok.


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[Rjhuser]

Originally Posted by pman1088

Take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the TT and switch it out to a 30amp RV outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being A/C current you will likely be ok.
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NO-NO-NO!

DO NOT DO THE ABOVE!!!

This extremely dangerous. The wire for that outlet is either 14 gauge (15 amp) or 12 gauge (20 amp) and can not handle 30 amps. You could burn your house down due to overheating if you draw 30 amps.

NEMA and NFPA codes are put in place for a reason. They specify what wire sizes are required for various amp draws. 30 amp circuits require a minimum of 10 gauge wire (larger for extremely long runs).

This is why you need to be careful with taking advice on a forum. When you get bad advice from someone who doesn't understand codes, ampacity requirements, and common knowledge you put yourself, your family and your property in Jeopardy

Rick

[dalebra]

Originally Posted by pman1088

take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the tt and switch it out to a 30amp rv outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being a/c current you will likely be ok.


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Absolutely not!

Don"t even think about doing this! You will have a fire!

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by Rjhuser

NO-NO-NO!

DO NOT DO THE ABOVE!!!

X3 - The MINIMUM wiring for a 30-amp circuit is 10 gauge. House wiring will not be any greater than 12 gauge on an existing 20-amp circuit. EXTREME FIRE HAZARD!!! Do not do this!!!!

[pman1088]

My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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[Doboy Dawg]

I don't know how you guys can just say that a $700 quote from an electrician is ridiculous. Without being able to see the scope of the work required it is impossible to Internet bid a job.

The main panel may or may not have the extra breaker space or may be already at max capacity. There may be work involved in drilling through top plates in a wall, there may be brick that has to be drilled through. It may be necessary to install conduit, it may require digging a ditch to bury cable, which code where I'm at requires secondary voltage cables be at least 36" deep.

Don't knock the electrician until you work in his boots. Hack advice in electrical wiring has burnt down many structures.

I've worked everything from 230,000kv AC high voltage transmission to 12v DC. I've been in substations when 14,400kv breakers explode. I've been on 14,400 kv when lightning hit. I've been shocked by 480v 3phase due to an unknown backfeed. Been hit by 220v and 120v more than I care. I'm really lucky to be alive. If the lineman I was working with had not seen me get tied into the 480v 3 phase street light circuit and had sense enough to knock me to the ground with a full backswing arm bar I'd probably be pushing up daisies now.

The JEA power co. had the blueprints we were working by. The four known riser poles had been disconnected. We were told by the power company rep our circuit was dead and safe to work on. It was my bosses and my fault because we took his word and did not put a meter on it and check before starting to tear it out. One circuit had been backfed due to a car wreck in 1972 that took out a street light. That light could not be returned to the original circuit, so they line bored under a 4 lane road and backfed it from a riser on the other side of the road. They made an AS Built drawing and turned it in. Nobody ever updated the original drawing. This was located via a micro film search. Fifteen years later when the streetlights on six miles of Blanding Blvd. were updated this mistake almost killed me.

If you do not know what you are doing with electricity Leave it alone! Hire the qualified electrician, even they make mistakes.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by pman1088

My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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Then your house is a fire trap. There's no other way to put it. Sorry to so blunt.

And there's not much point in checking the existing wire run other than to verify that it is 12 gauge, which is required under code for a 20-amp circuit. There's no way it will be the 10 gauge that's required for a 30-amp circuit. As rjhuser said, there's a reason for electrical codes. Trying to provide 30 amp service through wiring that's not heavy enough will cause voltage loss and overheating, which is absolutely a fire hazard.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by rkresge

X3 - The MINIMUM wiring for a 30-amp circuit is 10 gauge. House wiring will not be any greater than 12 gauge on an existing 20-amp circuit. EXTREME FIRE HAZARD!!! Do not do this!!!!

x4
Don

[dalebra]

Originally Posted by pman1088

My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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Pman1088,

Consider yourself a very, very lucky person that you have not had a fire.
The only way you have gotten by with this setup is that you have not drawn over 20 amps for any length of time. If you indeed are drawing close to 30 Amps using 12AWG for any good length of time your insulation on your wires have started to melt. After melt will be fire. Any size breaker larger than a 20 Amp defeats the entire purpose of the breaker. You have been lucky and I seriously encourage you to discontinue the use of this circuit as you have it.