Power tongue jack disconnect

MikeDE · 05-05-2016, 12:00 PM

We have a 2016 Jayflight 34RSBS setup at a permanent site.
The unit came with a power tongue jack as part of the package.
I'd like to disconnect the power to the jack to avoid accidental or intentional activation of the jack, so it does not mess up the leveling.
Took a brief look and could not find an in-line fuse. The power wire traces back to other wiring (in a large loom) and it goes into the frame. The unit also has solar prep (not using) and not sure if the hot (red) leads on the positive side of the battery are for that or the jack. 3 hot (red) which I'll assume the larger one is for the coach. Nothing is marked.
My next check will be the main fuse/breaker panel to see if the jack fuse is there. I'd prefer the fuse removal option over the battery disconnect.
Thanks
Mike

**JFlightRisk** · 05-05-2016, 12:25 PM

Just a quick idea, at a spot on the power wire that's maybe out of sight, cut it, and crimp on a pair of insulated male-female spade or bullet connectors. That way if you want to power it back up, just make the connection again.

Bassdogs · 05-05-2016, 02:19 PM

I have never heard anyone with this concern. Most all TT's made in the last 3 or 4 years come with a power tongue jack. Not sure how it would turn itself on and cause the problem you seem concerned about. Someone could mess with the up down switch with out knowing what they were doing I suppose but there are a lot of things that you don't want people messing with, the slide switches come to mind, but again never heard anyone adding a cutoff switch.

Sergeum · 05-05-2016, 02:26 PM

I added a disconnect since my trailer sits exposed from our back lane. I didn't want anyone messing with the height and thus adding stress to the levelers. Someone could also turn on the LED light.

Different people have different concerns...

Scoutr2 · 05-05-2016, 02:27 PM

A couple things you can do.

1. Install a disconnect switch for your house batteries. That will shut off all 12V DC power to all circuits on the trailer - including the tongue jack. (This is what I have done - for the same concerns while in storage.)

2. Remove the in-line fuse to the jack, which shuts off the power to the jack, only. (The automotive square, spade-type fuse is housed in a 1-1/2" square holder in the jack power supply line. It is difficult to find.)

Sergeum · 05-05-2016, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

A couple things you can do.

1. Install a disconnect switch for your house batteries. That will shut off all 12V DC power to all circuits on the trailer - including the tongue jack. (This is what I have done - for the same concerns while in storage.)

2. Remove the in-line fuse to the jack, which shuts off the power to the jack, only.

If you install a disconnect switch, it might be wise to leave the electric brakes out of this loop.

Scoutr2 · 05-05-2016, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sergeum

If you install a disconnect switch, it might be wise to leave the electric brakes out of this loop.

Not sure why you say this - and would be a nightmare to try to accomplish, for no good reason. The brakes should not be engaged when parked. They only need power when you want to engage the brakes - that is, when driving.

A battery disconnect switch for the entire trailer is something over half the people here use, I would bet.

Just my experienced opinion.

Sergeum · 05-05-2016, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

Not sure why you say this - and would be a nightmare to try to accomplish, for no good reason. The brakes should not be engaged when parked. They only need power when you want to engage the brakes - that is, when driving.

A battery disconnect switch for the entire trailer is something over half the people here use, I would bet.

Just my experienced opinion.

When I installed my battery disconnect switch, the wire for my brakes was right there. I figured it would be best to leave it connected to my battery in case I started driving and forgot to turn the disconnect switch back on.

Scoutr2 · 05-05-2016, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sergeum

When I installed my battery disconnect switch, the wire for my brakes was right there. I figured it would be best to leave it connected to my battery in case I started driving and forgot to turn the disconnect switch back on.

I'm not sure - because I have no schematic in front of me - but if you somehow routed that brake wire differently, you may have no emergency brakes in the event of a disconnect. OR worse - you could have wired them permanently ON, which would drain your battery in no time, keeping the brake magnets energized.

Sergeum · 05-05-2016, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

I'm not sure - because I have no schematic in front of me - but if you somehow routed that brake wire differently, you may have no emergency brakes in the event of a disconnect. OR worse - you could have wired them permanently ON, which would drain your battery in no time, keeping the brake magnets energized.

All I can say, is that I didn't change any of the wiring from factory. The wire I'm referring to was always connected separately to the battery. All I did was add a physical disconnect to the power tongue jack and to the trailer's power system to eliminate parasitic drain on the battery. The brake wire, I'm assuming, sends power to the brakes when a signal from the brake controller is received. The electric brakes work perfectly and are not energized while parked.

This may be taking the topic away from the original poster...sorry.

Sundancer330 · 05-05-2016, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeDE

We have a 2016 Jayflight 34RSBS setup at a permanent site.
The unit came with a power tongue jack as part of the package.
I'd like to disconnect the power to the jack to avoid accidental or intentional activation of the jack, so it does not mess up the leveling.
Took a brief look and could not find an in-line fuse. The power wire traces back to other wiring (in a large loom) and it goes into the frame. The unit also has solar prep (not using) and not sure if the hot (red) leads on the positive side of the battery are for that or the jack. 3 hot (red) which I'll assume the larger one is for the coach. Nothing is marked.
My next check will be the main fuse/breaker panel to see if the jack fuse is there. I'd prefer the fuse removal option over the battery disconnect.
Thanks
Mike

I saw a similar question recently from some new owners that had no power to the jack. What they found out was there is no inline fuse on their jack. Jayco is switching over to auto resetting 30 amp fuses, but these were bad and not resetting. What you have to do is follow the wires where the main loom enters the trailer and look for a small silver fuse thats about an inch long half inch wide. In your case if you want to cut power to the jack just remove one of the wires on the fuse and the jack will have no power.

Sergeum · 05-05-2016, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

I'm not sure - because I have no schematic in front of me - but if you somehow routed that brake wire differently, you may have no emergency brakes in the event of a disconnect. OR worse - you could have wired them permanently ON, which would drain your battery in no time, keeping the brake magnets energized.

I was just putting my kids to bed and realized where the confusion lies. I indicated electric brakes. What I meant to say was breakaway switch for the brakes.

MikeDE · 05-06-2016, 05:52 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions
I think we'll let the dealer disconnect the jack for us since it seems like there is no fuse or easy way for me to do it.
We have a short list of repairs/adjustments that are needed anyhow.
Thanks again
Mike

Jagiven · 05-06-2016, 08:49 AM

The easiest solution is to add an inline fuse. Pull the fuse when you are setup. When you want to adjust the tongue height, reinstall the fuse. This is very easy and cheap to do.

I would not add a battery disconnect. If you disconnect the battery, and you have a power failure during the week while you away, the refrigerator could not automatically transfer to gas power.

Ottawasteve · 05-06-2016, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeDE

Thanks for all the suggestions
I think we'll let the dealer disconnect the jack for us since it seems like there is no fuse or easy way for me to do it.
We have a short list of repairs/adjustments that are needed anyhow.
Thanks again
Mike

Mike rather than telling dealer to install a cutoff/disconnect or additional fuse, get the dealer to show you where the fuse for the jack as it is probably already there. On my trailer if you over extend the jack up or down it pops the fuse (overload protection) so I had to replace mine a few times until I put some marks on the jack. You'll want to know where this fuse is in any event.

MikeDE · 05-06-2016, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ottawasteve

Mike rather than telling dealer to install a cutoff/disconnect or additional fuse, get the dealer to show you where the fuse for the jack as it is probably already there. On my trailer if you over extend the jack up or down it pops the fuse (overload protection) so I had to replace mine a few times until I put some marks on the jack. You'll want to know where this fuse is in any event.

Good idea thank you

Bassdogs · 05-06-2016, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagiven

The easiest solution is to add an inline fuse. Pull the fuse when you are setup. When you want to adjust the tongue height, reinstall the fuse. This is very easy and cheap to do.

I would not add a battery disconnect. If you disconnect the battery, and you have a power failure during the week while you away, the refrigerator could not automatically transfer to gas power.

The easiest and simpliest solution to deactivate is to just cut the cord coming out from the jack power head and usually wire tied to the post as it passes down to the frame and then connected to the battery. That is the positive wire [jack is grounded thru the trailer frame so there is no negative wire. Cut this wire and secure it for a future need, and you have deactivated the jack.

MikeDE · 05-17-2016, 05:45 AM

After contacting the dealer and looking closely I was able to locate a 30 AMP inline blade fuse for this power jack. It was located near the frame
Thanks for all the help.
Happy trails
Mike

Hearth · 07-08-2016, 08:14 PM

I found the fuse pretty easily after my blew! I tried to lift the front too high. It's in a black square about 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/2" or so thick. Pop the cap and it's a 20 amp fuse. The power jack will not run without it. So I keep several spare fuses in different amp ratings in the door pocket of my truck now, just in case.

You may also like: