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Old 01-15-2015, 10:32 AM   #21
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And that is if you have 120v. When the voltage is lower in a cold cg with lots of heaters going, the current load will be even higher.
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:54 PM   #22
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When I had a 5Ver, I was able to install an extra wall plug,in the wall, and ran a cord out to the door, where my 30amp came in. Had a mail end installed.
Just ran an extension cord along side the 30 amp and plugged it in.
I could then run 1 or even 2 electric units, by using the added wall plug and the standard wall plug. I also used a nice heavy extension cord, 16 ga. I believe.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:19 PM   #23
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I'm curious, why run an electric heater when you have a furnace? A resistive heater is a huge draw on the system.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by KGirdley View Post
I'm curious, why run an electric heater when you have a furnace? A resistive heater is a huge draw on the system.
#1-My heater is oil filled and I like it because it's quiet.
#2- I don't carry propane tanks ( that's the real answer)
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:07 AM   #25
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If you are just staying for a few nights, and the electric is included in the daily price, then the electric heater saves Propane.
As Truce say's, it is quieter. But if you are staying for a week or more, and paying .15 to .20 a KW for electricity, you might not want to do it.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:33 PM   #26
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No 20 amp available. Just a 30 amp. And yes, electricity included and much quieter running a plug in heater. Three more questions PLEASE

1) When plugged in, does ANYTHNG run purely off battery power still or only electric converted to 12 volt. Wondering after reading if I am overcharging my batteries by not using them for anything.

2) With 2 Honda 2000 watt generators going. And by the math I learned here, 30 amps x 120 or 115 or 110 (still confused about which it is, it seems to vary in google) is 3600 watts, does the extra 400 watts go anywhere in helping me to run the plug in heaters, or no because the breakers and wring are still going to pop regardless of how much juice I have coming in over 3600 watts / 30 amps? If 30 amps is 3600 watts and I have 4000 watts, is the extra watts lost?

3) Assuming at LEAST I can plug and extension cord into one of the Hondas 120 outlet in addition to the 30 amp plug and get it that way?

Thanks everyone
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:22 AM   #27
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No one? Did I stump the crowd?
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:50 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Cheaperrooter View Post
No 20 amp available. Just a 30 amp. And yes, electricity included and much quieter running a plug in heater. Three more questions PLEASE

1) When plugged in, does ANYTHNG run purely off battery power still or only electric converted to 12 volt. Wondering after reading if I am overcharging my batteries by not using them for anything.

2) With 2 Honda 2000 watt generators going. And by the math I learned here, 30 amps x 120 or 115 or 110 (still confused about which it is, it seems to vary in google) is 3600 watts, does the extra 400 watts go anywhere in helping me to run the plug in heaters, or no because the breakers and wring are still going to pop regardless of how much juice I have coming in over 3600 watts / 30 amps? If 30 amps is 3600 watts and I have 4000 watts, is the extra watts lost?

3) Assuming at LEAST I can plug and extension cord into one of the Hondas 120 outlet in addition to the 30 amp plug and get it that way?

Thanks everyone
Batteries are wired parallel to load. Anything (load)connected to circuirt is also wired parallel. Draw is constant with respect to load. In a charging system for example, batteries stabilize voltage, and provide reserve current (wattage) availability beyond alternator output but withing the capacity of a battery before voltage drops off.
2. Most generators sold are listed at maximum output not sustained (rated) output. You didn't loose anything. That difference should be considered a power factor that relates to inductive or motor starting current. Small motors small power factor, large motors large power factor. V x A= W. V x A X Pf = Max wattage!
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:56 AM   #29
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Ummmm yeah. Could you dumb that down? That was WAY too technical and really, didn't answer my questions still couldn't find an answer in there anywhere to say if when plugged in, are the batteries being used? I would say no. They are not, because the electric is being converted to supply the things the batteries would supply without electricity. So they are dormant.

And can I plug into the extra outlet on generator to supply one of the heater fans in addition to the 30 amp generaors plug to stop breaker from throwing inside unit.
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Old 01-29-2015, 12:43 PM   #30
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Batteries are not typically used when connected to shore power. I would think you could plug into the generator, but the total would only be the total power output of the generator. You may a voltage drop if you try to draw more power than it can produce. And the power is rated at 120 volts but can vary from 110 to about 122 without much chance of damage. I keep a voltage meter plugged into one of my outlets so I know what is happening. On hot days, with everyone's A/C running, and a full campground the voltage may drop, especially in remote areas. Then what happens is motors etc still need the same amount of watts to operate, so when voltage drops amperage goes up and you may blow the circuit.

To compare electric to water to make it easier to understand
Amperage is flow rate
Watt is gallons
Voltage is pressure

If you need more gallons, you can increase pressure, or increase flow (amperage.)
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:23 PM   #31
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ok so I have seen on here that 30 amps is 30 amps and 50 amps is actually 100 because it is a 2 pole breaker ... is this true or false and I want to ask also if the 20 amp plug at the pole is gfci then can you run a heater on it?
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:32 PM   #32
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Yes.. with 30 amp service you have one 120 volt 30 amp line. With a 50 amp service you have two 120 volt 50 amp lines. For the record nothing in your rig runs on 220 volts. On a 50 amp service, half your rig will run on one 120 volt 50 amp line, and the other half will run on the other 120 volt 50 amp line. Typically your A/C's are each placed on a different line, along with a balance of the rest of your appliances/outlets. This is why when a rig needs 50 amps and a guest will say I have an adapter I can use 30 I try to explain to them that a 50 amp service supplies 3 and 1/3 times the power of a 30 amp service and half your rig will not operate on 120 volts. '
Depending on the size of the heater, yes you can run that on a 20 amp outlet. 20 amp is typically the highest rating on an outlet in a brick and mortar home. 20 amps X 120 volts means a heater of up to 2400 watts can be run on a 20 amp outlet. Know that many campgrounds will have more than one sight on the same line coming from the main campground panel. That 30 amp line at your sight may be on a combined 50 amp breaker, meaning, if you and your neighbor both run the max, the main breaker will blow, not at your campsight. Have I totally confused everyone ?
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:38 PM   #33
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I should add, all of the above goes into figuring site sizes and what type of unit will fit on what site. It's not just the physical size of the unit, but also the utility requirement of that rig. On average a rig under 34' is assumed to need 30 amp service and over that 50 amp service. We try to ask a guest when making a reservation what they need so we can place them in the correct size sight. So when you lie and say you have a smaller unit than what you really have ( especially when reserving online) you really could be setting yourself up for problems once you arrive at your site.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:40 PM   #34
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so the gfci isn't effected by a heater
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:44 PM   #35
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A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFI) just detects a small voltage "leak" and shuts the line down before anyone can get a shock. It makes no difference as to what is plugged into it.
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:38 AM   #36
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Wags999????? WOW!!!!! What an ANSWER!!!! Thank YOU!!! Talk
about explaining something articulately and so this ole plumber could
understand it (NOT to say others didn't do well also, I appreciated ALL comments)
But slow clap to Wags999.
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:56 AM   #37
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This is a typical 30AMP Wiring configuration showing what runs on 120VAC and 12VDC.

Note the trailer battery and the 120VAC controller 12VDC OUTPUT are both connected to the same point on the 12VDC Fuse Panel. This allows both the Battery or the Controller to provide 12VDC going to the 12VDC fuse panel. If the controller is not powered by 120VAC then the battery carries the 12VDC load.

With the battery connected then the converter will keep the battery charged when the converter is connected to 120VAC shore power.



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Old 01-30-2015, 03:25 PM   #38
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The electric is confusing for everyone.. 30 amp and 50 amp really confused people. Many older campgrounds have limited 50 amp sites, and when they use an adapter to plug into a 30 amp receptacle and they have problems they are surprised.... and of course it's all the campgrounds fault.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:04 AM   #39
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Roy Ken,

I think I found a mistake on the diagram. At the bottom it says, "Power Inverter (from 110V to 12V) is custom install". Inverters convert 12v to 110v, correct?

Ken
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:38 AM   #40
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Roy Ken,

I think I found a mistake on the diagram. At the bottom it says, "Power Inverter (from 110V to 12V) is custom install". Inverters convert 12v to 110v, correct?

Ken
It appears in this case, since your inverting power from the 12v battery to 120 volts for use to power TV and outlets your correct. On a side note, this would kill the battery quickly depending on what your plugging into the 120v outlet.
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