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Old 08-27-2015, 02:02 PM   #21
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Bono,
Good question and I'm not sure. I have the Jayco Swift 26 BH. Heading to camp tomorrow for four days. I'll have to check. You have me wondering....
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:03 PM   #22
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Thanks, I read that 15 btu will not work with one EU2000.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:07 PM   #23
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Thank you Guys! It all makes a lot of sense.

@Mustang65 – re 12 volt things in the TT: I do not know yet. I think the inverter will be a good thing to be able to recharge the phone, etc. If I install inverter, how does it work – I will have one dedicated socket for 110 V?
It depends on how much battery power you have, if you can recharge the batteries (SOLAR/Generator), and the size inverter (matched to battery output).

There are a few different ways of wiring in an inverter.

- The easiest would be to mount the inverter as close to the battery and just run an extension cord from the inverter into the TT, where you can plug a few things into it. Some of the members use this method.
- You could install a single outlet in the TT that runs directly to the inverter.

The above options will provide you with limited access to 110VAC.

- You could purchase an automatic transfer switch ($80) that you would wire your shore power and your inverter into and if it does not see 110VAC coming from your shore power it will switch over to your inverter (if you have it turned on). This method will supply 110VAC to all your TT's outlets, just make sure you turn off your AC breaker.
- Finally, you could run a modified heavy duty extension cord from your inverter to your TT's outside shore power outlet. You would have to change the female end of the extension cord to a 30Amp RV female end. This way you just plug your inverter's 110VAC output into your TT's shore power receptacle. All your TT's outlets will be energized.

In any case the inverter should be mounted as close to the batteries as possible.

Don
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:19 PM   #24
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I didn't realize someone was making an AGM in deep cycle. My bad. That would be a nice combination. But as was mentioned, too expen$ive for us average folk.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:53 PM   #25
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@gypsmjim - I understand that I need genny to run microwave. I can survive without this. The only concern I have is whether I would need to run air con for the toddler. We will see.

100 watt solar system is enough to recharge the batteries?
If I didn't want the ability to run AC, then I wouldn't need the generator.

In our case, worse case scenario, we run the furnace for an hour in the morning, 2 hours in the evening and then all night long, but at low temp. Lights (all LED) for a few hours in the evening. 12V TV for a few hours in the evening. Fridge 24 hours a day. Parasitic drains - smoke, CO, etc. - all the time as well. Under these Spring or Fall conditions the Renogy keeps my battery in fine shape all the time.

We have a single group 24 Trojan deep cycle. Our trailer is also a smaller 195RB, so we don't have all the fancy gadgets that a bigger trailer might have.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:29 PM   #26
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Bono,
This is what I have. Bought it two years ago for around $160. I see they have gone up in price but worth every penny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:31 PM   #27
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Bono,
This is what I have. Bought it two years ago for around $160. I see they have gone up in price but worth every penny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
That's not the kit I bought. I see the Amazon page didn't say too much, but if you go to the Renogy home page and view the specs, it says for + ground vehicles, and not to be used with a negative ground system. They then refer you to the "RV Model", which is about $110 more.

I bought the RV model and all the grounds go to the - terminal on the battery. I believe my controller is also upgraded.

If yours works OK, then maybe I paid too much....LOL.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:56 PM   #28
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I understand I would need something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Verta...s=rv+solar+kit
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:57 PM   #29
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@Bono,
Wow, nice! Expensive though. I just bought the 100 watt kit and a separate $40.00 inverter that works the TV. If you have the bucks I'd go with the 200 watt kit.
@gypsmjim, Interesting! Amazon says this kit works for RV's and mine has worked flawlessly. I'm not clear what the other one you mentioned is for.
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:24 PM   #30
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Please could you help me to understand the best route to go forward:

- I will order a new White Hawk soon
- I am planning to buy AGM batteries and put them inside the trailer or in a cargo compartment in the back to kill the tongue weight and to have them in more secure place (would appreciate comments if this is a bad idea)
- many campgrounds where I will be going will not have hookups, so I would need a solar panel or generator to recharge batteries
- we do not watch TV, so I assume we will not use a lot of the electricity
- however, we have a toddler and I am not sure whether from time to time we would not need to run the air con - then we would need a generator

I am planning to start with the solar panel and check whether the generator is really needed. What kind of size I should be looking at? White Hawks are "solar ready" - does it make things easier? If I move the batteries from the front to the back of the trailer, does it make any difference?
The AGM batteries may be ok but I would be reluctant to place any battery that is tied to a charging system in or about my living quarters. Just my feelings.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:53 PM   #31
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I have 3 cars, a tractor, an RV, 4 boats, etc. A few years ago I tried an AGM battery and liked it so much that over a 4 year period I converted everything to AGM. The first to go was a boat battery. Then, several had charging issues due to sulfating. I must say that I have a VG automatic smart battery charger that has AGM settings, so I did everything right.

Bottom line is that I have basically converted them all back except for the jetski, that IMHO gets too much bouncing for a lead acid battery. Economically the wet battery is the best choice - just take care of it.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:51 PM   #32
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I have read a little bit more about solar...

- it appears that RV solar qualifies for federal tax credit (30%) including batteries

- I am still thinking about AGM. Would Trojan T31-AGM 12V 100Ah Group 31 Deep Cycle AGM work?

http://www.amazon.com/Trojan-T31-AGM.../dp/B00NY0S8SY

- Are there any cons to install the panels on the roof of a new White Hawk like this guy is showing? Seems like not that complicated job...



- Would this be an issue to have the panels in front of the trailer (on the roof) and the batteries in the back of the trailer? Somebody mentioned that the inverter needs to be as close to the batteries as possible. Is there such a rule for the solar panels and the batteries?

Many thanks!
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:29 AM   #33
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Solar Grounding

All,

I spawned a new thread to discuss the positive and negative grounding of the solar systems touched on by tawoo & gypsmjim.

It is here for those that are interested: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ing-30445.html

Thanks,

David
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:28 AM   #34
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- Would this be an issue to have the panels in front of the trailer (on the roof) and the batteries in the back of the trailer? Somebody mentioned that the inverter needs to be as close to the batteries as possible. Is there such a rule for the solar panels and the batteries?

Many thanks!
There are a few basic rules for SOLAR installations:

- The INVERTER (12VDC to 110VAC) needs to be as close to the batteries as possible.
- The SOLAR Charge Controller (PWM or MPPT types) need to be as close to the batteries as possible.
- The higher voltage portion of the SOLAR circuit (Panel/Controller/Batteries) is the SOLAR panel, so the longest wire run should be between the panel(s) and the SOLAR charge controller. Higher voltage means less of a voltage drop.

Don
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:34 AM   #35
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![/QUOTE]Would this be an issue to have the panels in front of the trailer (on the roof) and the batteries in the back of the trailer? Somebody mentioned that the inverter needs to be as close to the batteries as possible. Is there such a rule for the solar panels and the batteries?

Many thanks![/QUOTE]

There are a few basic rules for installing SOLAR on a TT/RV:

- The INVERTER (12VDC to 110VAC) should be mounted as close to the batteries as possible
- The SOLAR Charge Controller (PWM or MPPT Types) should be mounted as close to the batteries as possible.
- The longest cable run for the installation should be between the panel(s) and the SOLAR Charge Controller. This is the highest voltage section of the circuit and will encounter the lowest voltage drop.

Don
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