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Old 09-01-2016, 06:06 AM   #11
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I won't say you are wrong but as with most rv's we see lately the tire capacities are not over engineered. The quality of the tire is key.

If you want more tire and it's not an option then go for it.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:18 AM   #12
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Something else to consider, do you believe a manufacturer (any product, any industry) would ever put the absolute weight capacity on something? Do ou not believe there is a cushion in there for the stupid people that will try to overload.
Please, I am not trying to bash your thought process, but Jayco and any other business is in it to make money, AND stay in business. They won't if they put out subpar items, every manufacturer dances a fine line between profit and what the buyer actually wants to spend.
I personally would be more worried about a row vehicle that is close to maxed out. It might work on paper, but try to use it in real world driving situations.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:21 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Levinehikeski View Post
Something else to consider, do you believe a manufacturer (any product, any industry) would ever put the absolute weight capacity on something? Do ou not believe there is a cushion in there for the stupid people that will try to overload.
Please, I am not trying to bash your thought process, but Jayco and any other business is in it to make money, AND stay in business. They won't if they put out subpar items, every manufacturer dances a fine line between profit and what the buyer actually wants to spend.
I personally would be more worried about a row vehicle that is close to maxed out. It might work on paper, but try to use it in real world driving situations.
Good points.

The TV is going to be OK for now, not ideal, but OK. I've spent a lot of effort making sure it will be safe and it will also be below the maximum ratings.
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:32 AM   #14
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While I agree that I could quite possibly be overthinking this, because that's what I usually end up doing, the part about near impossible to reach GVWR I'm not too sure about.

The trailer dry weight with no options is 2,950#. With all options it will come in around 3,150#, if not more. I will weigh all of the normal gear that will be stored in the front compartment (electrical cords, adapters, hoses, leveling blocks, etc.) this weekend to confirm, but I'm going to guess around 200#. Throw the two mtn. bikes on the front carrier rack and that's another 50#, kitchen utensils/hardware maybe 50#, add in another 50# for misc. items.

Just that right there would put the TT overall weight at 3,500# with an empty fresh water tank and the TT's GVWR is 3,750#.

Now add in the 25 gallon gray water tote that weighs 35# (and won't fit in the back of the TV) and clothing/linens/etc. and we're pushing 3,600#+. That gives us a buffer of 150#.

Plus, I'm a blacksmith....so I know I'm going to have to forge some misc. decorative items holders for it to make the camp director (wife) happy.

Maybe I'm being overly conservative, but in these smaller, lightweight TT's I can see them getting pushed close to their GVWR fairly easily.

Am I wrong in my assumptions (I sure hope somebody says yes )?
My experience has been that you can easily reach the trailer GVWR and do need to watch how much you load. Check out the yellow loading sticker when you get the trailer to confirm your unit's actual "dry" weight as delivered. Ours had a brochure "dry" weight of 2800 but as delivered was 3015.

In your example above you specifically call out an empty fresh water tank. Fill that up and it's about 210lbs putting you over your 150lb buffer. And don't forget that you have a 6g hot water tank that is most likely going to be full when using the trailer which is another 50lbs. We routinely roll down the road with a loaded trailer weight of 3700 - our GVWR is also 3750. Of course, the wheels are not going to fall off at 3751lbs but I think it's a good idea to be aware of your overall weight and adjust your load accordingly.
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