Trailer Brakes Disconnected message on Tow Vehicle?

[therealsafetya]

Hi,

I completed a 980km trip today in my 2013 Jay Flight 26BH. As I was pulling in to my storage, my dash chimed on my truck with a message that said "trailer brake disconnected". Odd, as I've logged almost 2000 kms this summer with no issues at all, this is a first.

When this error message appeared, I no longer had electric brakes on my trailer - but everything else (lighting, signals) worked.

I disconnected, reconnected the cable a number of times, and my truck (2014 Ram 1500) doesn't recognize that the trailer is even connected (despite all the lights working). It says "no trailer connected".

Any ideas as to where to start on this problem???

I'm lucky this happened when and where it did as I just completed a pretty burly trip that involved a fire road I wouldn't ever attempt without trailer brakes! Not to mention the Coquihalla highway portion of my trip.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

I would check that you have resistance through the brake magnets at the trailer cord. Then, since the truck is under warranty, I would head to the dealer to let them check the truck out.

[norty1]

Could be a simple fix. First use a plug in light at your truck plug to determine if the problem is in the truck or in the trailer. Check fuses in the truck.

[therealsafetya]

Thanks for this - how do I check for resistance? I have an ohm meter, what am I looking for and how/where?

Cheers.

[Gone campin]

First thing I would check would be the fuses in the truck...

[ctbailey]

Yep. Blown fuse for the brake controller is my guess. Mine is under the hood in the engine compartment.

[norty1]

I wouldn't waste any time on the trailer until you verify you have voltage from the truck.

[therealsafetya]

Brief update - I have ruled out the truck as the culprit. I plugged in to my neighbour's 5th wheel and my truck recognized it right away.

So, I am thinking (hoping) it's a bad connection on the trailer cable socket that I can clean up, or worst case, a bad ground somewhere. That will likely require me to bring it in for service (sucks!) but such is life.

[norty1]

Verify grounds and all wiring for a broken wire underneath. Brake magnets should be 3.2 to 3.5 ohms each. The contacts in your wiring connectore should also be inspected and tested.

Here is a troubleshooting guide from etrailer:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-15680.html

[therealsafetya]

I've done some more digging around, and have found a few threads about the factory "Bargman" 7-pin connector being problematic. I am now wondering if there is not a broken or damaged connection inside it. It would make sense...the message about no brakes came immediately following a 90 degree turn and I wonder if the previous owner made a habit of disconnecting the cable by tugging on it and not the actual plug itself.

Unfortunately, the Bargman plug does not appear to be user serviceable.

I found a Pollack 7-pin plug on Amazon for cheap ($8). I am contemplating cutting off the Bargman plug and wiring this new (and user serviceable) plug on in it's place. I have plenty of slack left on the cable to allow me to remove a few inches to accommodate the required splicing.

Anyone see any issues with this that I am not thinking of?

I do have an extended warranty on the trailer so I could always bring it in to the dealer - but that is a pain in the *&@! and will cost me a $100 deductible. I am trying to eliminate the easy options first. Oh, and I am stubborn! ha.

[NY Buckeyes]

I had a similar problem this spring on my 2015 26BHS. Ran through the truck, connector, and the j-box on the front of the trailer only to find no issues. Looked under the trailer and found that the wire had pulled out of the cheapy crimp connector on the driver's side. Reconnected this and no problems since. I also re-did the other connections while I was at it because it looked like it was only be a matter of time before they popped off.

[mike837go]

My first official pull with the new trailer, I mishandled the breakaway lanyard and it activated the breakaway switch. The brake controller reported a "no connection" when, in fact, the trailer brakes were locked.


Did you check for +12VDC at the connector where you should see the magnets?

[norty1]

I replaced the connector in the bed of my truck. Make sure you swap it wire for wire.
The instruction that came with my new one differed from what I actually had that worked fine until it broke.

[therealsafetya]

Fixed.

I went out today prepared to go through things based on all the advice here. I started by inspecting the 7-pin plug, and with the brakes still not working, decided I'd pin out each connection in the plug to its associated wire to test that the actual 7-pin connector plug and cable were OK.

When I opened the junction box to get access to the other end of the cord, I found the blue wire for my brakes hanging by a thread, pretty much disconnected from the marrette, which would explain why the brake controller is reading "no trailer brake".

Poor craftsmanship (provided that it is original). The wires that are connected via marrette were only stripped back about an 8th of an inch, and were barely joined inside the marrette. I stripped them all back and reconnected (and taped them), and voila, everything works again.

I'll likely replace the marrettes in the JB with crimped connections in the spring, but I've solved my problem and can put her away for the winter with peace of mind.

Thanks for all of your suggestions.

[norty1]

Great. Now next time someone needs help, or a similar problem occurs, you have been there and will have a leg up on it.