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Old 05-19-2015, 11:59 PM   #21
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This sounds like a grounding problem with the campground ground in the section you're in since the older area reads 0 plus other coaches show the same 7V offset.

This has the potential to be a serious issue. I'd tell the manager about the issue and have them bring a electrican out and do some checks because someplace there is a grounding problem.

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Old 05-20-2015, 05:14 AM   #22
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Hi JMooney,

Yes, I would describe the sensation as a weak 9v battery on the tongue. I am just not sure if that 6-7 volts and that tingling sensation from frame are normal or not. And it is only felt if hands are wet (at least thus far).

I checked the "Reverse Polarity" fuses in the fuse box under fridge. They are good. I also checked the 30amp inline fuse at battery and it is also good. When I go back out to camper this week I will "clean up" the ground wire from battery and ensure it has positive connection.

Will keep you all posted on what I discover.

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Old 05-20-2015, 05:19 AM   #23
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This seems to be the common concensus from what I have been reading (that it more likely to be CG ground problem). I am using the same thinking as you; that if others in my immediate area show same voltage and those in another section are not; it must be a campground problem. But what I can't explain against that theory is why is the receptacle (when tested) showing clean.

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Old 05-20-2015, 05:57 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by wbarnes View Post
Is the frame to copper pipe a valid test and what is the expected voltage range for this specific type test (if valid)?

As has been said already, there shouldn't be a 7 volt potential difference in the ground system.

That said, a copper pipe in the ground is not necessarily giving a valid test. Ground conduction of a copper pipe includes many things such as surface area, moisture, soil type, and some I'm forgetting. Back in the day a 1/2" diameter copper clad or galvanized ground rod was considered sufficient. Now a matrix of 3 driven ground rods is considered the better option for grounding.

What that means is that the potential difference of 7 volts could actually be much higher if your ground rod had better conduction. As an experiment you could pour some salt water solution on your ground rod area to see if the test voltage increases.

I'm not going to guess what the problems are. I recommend informing the CG owner and requesting another site. Once there duplicate your tests to make certain the problem is not with your RV.

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Old 05-20-2015, 06:01 AM   #25
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The campground where I am hosting right now had a problem with several campers in one area with complaints of getting shocked (or tingled) when touching outside metal parts of their rigs. The campground called in an outside electrician and he traced the problem back to one older rig. When it was plugged in to the pedestal the problem existed for all others on that same circuit. He was told not to plug in until his problem was solved. This was just yesterday so I haven't heard what his internal problem was. The campground circuit was checked completely at each pedestal and found not to be the problem.

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Old 05-20-2015, 11:00 AM   #26
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The reason that the 110V ground and neutral are not bonded together in an RV is because the RV frame has no reference to earth ground. It is considered a floating ground (even with leveling feet down it is not considered grounded)

This is important because if the polarity on the camp ground post was reversed, then "hot" would be entering the RV on the White neutral wire, and, if it were bonded to the ground wire ( which is also grounded to your RV frame), the 110v Hot side would be in contact with your trailer frame.

If you were standing on a wet surface and touched the RV frame - you would conduct 110V to earth ground. Ouch!

Now back to the OP - this all still sounds very suspicious of an issue with Positive side voltage in contact with your trailer frame and/or ground wire.

The other trailers having the same reference to voltage is making us all think that this is an issue with CG power.

I'm not sure you are going to get your answer here until you figure out:

1) Why your battery is not charging - is that problem somehow related to what's going on or was it caused by some greater issue
2) Do you still have this voltage reference to your frame when connected to some other AC power source (at Home or on a gen set)

Please be very careful with your testing - 50amps can be quite deadly.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:46 PM   #27
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I'm Mike Sokol from the No~Shock~Zone. Thanks for posting a link to my blog about RV Electrical Safety here. There's definitely something fishy about the voltage you're measuring between your RV chassis and earth ground. In fact, there's a mis-wiring condition I call a Reflected Hot Skin Condition that will allow a ground fault from one campground pedestal to be reflected to multiple pedestals on the same daisy chain loop. I've written a basic paper about this somewhere and will see if I can find it and post a link tomorrow. The really dangerous thing about this mis-wiring condition is that it can change from a tingle to full electrocution at any time. So it really needs to be checked out and corrected by the campground electrician immediately.
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:56 AM   #28
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I've talked to a few of my EE buddies about this situation, and we all agree that if you're seeing this same voltage at multiple RVs plugged into different pedestal outlets, then the likeliest cause is a compromised Ground-Neutral bond in the campground's service panel leg that's feeding all those pedestals. This can be very dangerous since a ground fault in a single RV can be reflected to everyone else on the campground loop. Also be aware that because UL won't allow the EGC ground to be disconnected by any safety device, that even a Progressive Industries EMS can't disconnect you from a reflected hot ground (but it will shut down your interior power), nor will any GFCI trip and protect you no matter where it's located in the circuit.

The best way for the campground to test for a proper impedance EGC ground is to use a ground loop impedance tester such as a SureTest Analyzer or Amprobe INPS-3. These are a little expensive for a casual user since they cost around $300, but certainly any campground or electrician should be able to afford one. I'm advocating that all campgrounds are checked for ground loop impedance every few years, or anytime a pedestal has be damaged and repaired or replaced. But its slow going because of the "it's never happened to me" crowd. However, I get emails about this all the time and have mocked up a demonstration to prove how this works and ways to measure it.

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Old 05-21-2015, 12:26 PM   #29
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So Ive read through all of this. One of the statements was to clean the connections at the frame. I asked a similar question when I bought our latest camper last spring. Thought I had it figured out (found the plug at the house was not correct. Its an older home, but ground is not working at that plug. I switched plugs to one with a working ground and seemed better), but still am feeling an ocasional tingle (only from the frame, not the aluminum skin as far as I can tell) if I make contact with the sissor jacks up (has not been noticable when down). Looking farther into it, the bare copper wires (I think there are 2 or 3) that come through the floor to the frame right where the breaker box is, is all rusted and crappy looking. Is it possible that the connection is just bad and will cleaning it help? Looking to get it out this weekend and work on it, unplugged of corse... Thinking it may be worth my while to clean all grounding connections under the camper. Im not overly excited about bringing my 6mo out until I can get this taken care of.
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:40 PM   #30
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Hi folks

I did so more testing today with one of the campground workers and we made an interesting observation but we are not able to rationalize what it means.

The campground circuit I am on has 7 campers. While each receptacle has its own hot wire, they share the same neutral. The campground worker believes the ground is bonded to neutral (bootleg ground).

We tested all the campers that are on this panel for their frame to ground voltage reading. All were about 5.4 volts. We tested the pedestal outlets and they show clean. Now the interesting observation......the receptacles are housed in a grey cabinet on the wooden pedastal. We tested the from one of the cabinet screws to the ground and it had 5.4 volts (despite its receptacle showing ground-to-neutral as 0 volts). We tested from the screw to ground with all the campers unplugged and plugged in....same 5.4 volts.



Ok, now the interesting observation. W

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