Trailer Sway

[RAurand]

I have a 28BHBE and when hooked up to my Expedition EL, Chains are on the 2nd link (Photo below shows 1st link) and it don't take hardly any pull on the bar to get the chains hooked on the arm. My trailer and Expedition sit level. Yet, sometimes when traveling 65 MPH down the highway, with a little wind, the trailer wants to sway. Sometimes it just wants to sway. Someone at Camping World suggested tightening up the spring bard by moving up 2 or 3 links on the chains. That would really make the chains very tight. Don't know what will happen to the levelness the Expedition and trailer are now. By the way, there is a sway bar on the other side of the A Frame and it don't seem to help much. Yes, I do have it tight.

These are just regular round spring bars and chain.

[ALJO]

On 30ft Travel Trailers it is recommended to have 2 sway controls. a moderate to heavy windstorm can play easily with a trailer of that size.

[texanrebel]

I have a 287 bhsw its 34ft bumper to hitch i do get a little sway not much and also thought about putting 2nd sway bar, will it help? I was in west texas and had a good crosswind and its flat and i had a couple hairy moments when guest really kicked up.

[Rustic Eagle]

RAurand,

Definitely sounds like your WDH needs to be re-adjusted. Also, the WDH isn't designed to "level" your TV, it's main function is to "return weight back" to your TV's front suspension for proper steering and braking integrity.

With your "loaded" TT unhitched from your TV, measure from the front wheel-well to the ground. Now hitch your TT back to the TV...., now re-measure your front wheel-well height. The objective is to adjust your WDH so you return the front suspension back to it's "unhitched" height as close as possible (not below unhitched height).

With most TV/TT combinations raising the TT with the TT's tongue jack (with TT hitched to TV) will make it easier to engaged the spring bars. Also, most TV's will have a rear suspension squat of 1" to 2" after proper WDH adjustment.

The WDH installation instructions will have adjustment instructions, if you don't have the WDH documents, post the brand and model of your WDH and we may be able to direct you to the appropriate documents.

Oh, if you can refer to chain links "under tension", this will help others with their responses. Not sure if your statement of "Chains are on the 2nd link" is under tension or hanging loose. Thanks in advance.

If you have the time, a visit to the CAT scale will dial-in any WDH adjustment and confirm your weights. Also, the CAT scale will confirm that your TT's loaded tongue weight is 13% to 15% of your TT's gross weight....., a light tongue weight can induce TT sway as well.

CAT scale how-to: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

As mentioned, if you don't have a manual friction sway control bar(s) it is highly recommended.

Hope this helps.

Bob

[need-a-vacation]

RA,

Probably the best thing you can do is to load the tv and tt as you would for a trip, and go weigh your rig combo! Follow my signature link for the how to. Reporting back will allow us to help even more than just going by how many many chain links you have under tension, which sounds like 8 from what you posted. While you did post a pic (TY, as most don't), the number of chain links can vary a little, so it's easier to help when we know how many are under tension, and not hanging free (just a FYI).

It is hard to say, but you may need some more tw if the tt wants to sway that easy. I would also highly suggest some form of a sway control. You could add the Reese Dual Cam system to your wdh, or can't tell for sure from the pic but maybe two side mounted friction bars. I suggest two due to the length of your 28. But before spending money on a form of sway control, go weigh your rig with all passengers that normally go.

Do you use the tongue jack to raise the trailer back up to hook the wd bars up? If not, and your pretty level I am going to guess you don't have enough tw!!! Add some tw, readjust the wdh system, and you will probably need to raise the trailer up after latching the coupler on the ball to hook up the wd bars.

Post back with your weights, and good luck!!!

[justman]

If you want to eliminate sway and have a lot of $$$, go with either the Hensley Arrow or the ProPride hitch. I bought a used Hensley Arrow after the first few times towing our old travel trailer and didn't regret spending the money one bit.

Of course, that's not in a lot of people's budgets. It wasn't exactly in mine either... Had to have a discussion with my accountant (wife) and we collectively determined the cost to benefit ratio was sufficient enough to make it a worthy investment. If you're wondering, the Hensley Arrow does eliminate sway. Loved it.

Go with two sway control devices and see how they work. They're a LOT cheaper than the Hensley Arrow or ProPride, and if they work...you're set!

[KennyG]

Get an "EQUALIZER" (actual brand name). The "American Original 4 point sway system". No extra anti-sway accessories needed with this system. I've had this system for a number of years it and I know it works.

Rather than making this a long post, I suggest you check out the Equalizer website and read all details and videos for yourself.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/[/URL]

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by KennyG

Get an "EQUALIZER" (actual brand name). The "American Original 4 point sway system". No extra anti-sway accessories needed with this system. I've had this system for a number of years it and I know it works.

Rather than making this a long post, I suggest you check out the Equalizer website and read all details and videos for yourself.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/[/URL]

X2 I love my Equalizer setup. Great product...

[RAurand]

Thank you all for the advise.


Here are answers to some of the above questions.
I did go to the CAT Scale. EW of my trailer is 6819. Loaded weight for camping is 7300. Tongue weight is 550 pounds.


We do travel light. All my tanks are empty. Other than loading up the front storage pass thru, how can I make the tongue weight heaver?


When traveling, there is usually 1 free hanging chain link at the top. The rest are under tension, but not a really tight tension. I can just use the pull bar to pull the chains up. I do not need to raise the trailer by the power jack stand.
The tighter I make the chain tension, the more sway I have.


With 1 free link, I measured the TV and it is only 1" off level with the front being 1" higher than when the trailer was not connected. When hooking up the trailer without the spring bars, the front of my Expedition only raises about 3".


There is a sway bar on the Right side of the A-Frame. You just can not see it in the photo as it is on the other side.


From what it sounds, I need to get the tongue heaver. So, other than loading the front pass thru storage, how would I make it heaver?

[FishAr]

I'd try moving it up a chain link. I can't hook or unhook the bars on either of my trailers without jacking both trailer and truck up with the tongue jack. Doesn't sound like you have much tension there.

You need the front end back to where it is when unhooked.

[kerner]

Wouldn't add a second sway bar? when I did research they said "anything over 25 ft should have a second sway bar" I put a second one on my 28ft'er and it made a world of difference. I haven't touched my WD set up. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57521-O...ds=rv+sway+bar

[Seann45]

RA do you crank down the tongue jack when you are tightening the chains? You should.. if you can do it otherwise they bars are not tight enough.. Using the tongue jack Lift the truck at least 3" when on the ball then put the spring bar chains on and tighten... this is why so many of us have electric tongue jacks...

[octane]

if the front is an inch higher with the WDH, it's because it's not tight enough...


you want it to be pretty close to what it is unloaded. how tight is the sway bar?

[Screwby]

Yeah something isn't adjusted right. There is no way you should be able to set your chain tension without raising the TT and TV with the jack first. If I tried to put mine on the correct link without raising TT and TV it is impossible to even get the proper chain link up to the connection bracket. If I released my tension without raising everything up together the result would be something on my body broken.

[Lolead]

Although I am NOT , by any stretch of imagination, an expert on this subject, it sounds to me like you MAY need to drop the hitch ball 1 hole. Doing this would drop the tongue of the trailer when hitched without the bars. This would also "add" tongue weight. This would allow you to have more links hanging free after attaching wd bars which SHOULD place more weight on steer axle and level the trailer again. Perhaps someone can explain this better than I. Hope this helps, Dave

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by RAurand

Thank you all for the advise.


Here are answers to some of the above questions.
I did go to the CAT Scale. EW of my trailer is 6819. Loaded weight for camping is 7300. Tongue weight is 550 pounds.


We do travel light. All my tanks are empty. Other than loading up the front storage pass thru, how can I make the tongue weight heaver?


When traveling, there is usually 1 free hanging chain link at the top. The rest are under tension, but not a really tight tension. I can just use the pull bar to pull the chains up. I do not need to raise the trailer by the power jack stand.
The tighter I make the chain tension, the more sway I have.


With 1 free link, I measured the TV and it is only 1" off level with the front being 1" higher than when the trailer was not connected. When hooking up the trailer without the spring bars, the front of my Expedition only raises about 3".


There is a sway bar on the Right side of the A-Frame. You just can not see it in the photo as it is on the other side.


From what it sounds, I need to get the tongue heaver. So, other than loading the front pass thru storage, how would I make it heaver?

Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).

I will also echo what others have said about the WDH; its purpose is NOT to level the tow vehicle, it is to return lost weight to the front axle. You want the trailer to be level or slightly nose down, and the front axle to be the same weight (height is an approximation) as it is when unhitched. When you're setup properly, you will most likely have to raise the truck and trailer to get the bars under tension.

Look up the instructions for your hitch and take all the measurements yourself. If you had the dealer set up your hitch, chances are it's wrong. I've only heard a couple people here say their dealer did the hitch right the first time.

Honestly though, I'm wondering how you could get the tongue to be so light? When I'm basically unloaded, I'm still right at 10-11% on the tongue. I don't store a lot in the rear of the trailer simply because it's inconvenient, so most of my "stuff" goes up front. I would take whatever you can and put it in the front storage, and under the master bed. Also, putting some water in the tanks will help a little. Setting the trailer slightly nose-down (like 1" or so) will help a little too.

Post back with what you do and how well it works, and good luck!

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).

X2! I was just reading this thread and thinking the same thing.

[octane]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).

the brochure tongue weight is 610lb, so add a battery and it should be over 650lb. something doesn't add up... I never seen a tongue weight under the advertised value

[Camper_bob]

The more I think about this thread, the more I think the best advice IMO is to start the hitch setup over from scratch per the instructions.

It sounds like you could be nose high on the trailer? That could explain the feather-light tongue weight.

Anyway, that's what I would do if I were you. I would locate the instructions for the hitch, find a relatively level spot, load up the trailer as best I could, and get my tape measure and tools out and just set it up right from scratch.

[krcarter54]

Thats an easy fix - spend a few dollars and purchase an Equal-i-zer WDH!