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Old 03-20-2017, 06:59 AM   #1
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Upgrade WDH worth it???

We purchased our 2012 JayFeather Select 29L (7500 lbs max) last spring. We tow with a 2015 2500 Duramax. The seller included this hitch with 2 sway bars. The reviews all look great, but I definitely feel it behind me (not much sway...almost feels like it's surging forward and backward). Would an upgrade to a Blue Ox or Equalizer hitch be worth it in terms of towing comfort, ease, etc??? So far we have stayed within a few hundred miles of our house, but we will venture a little further this summer and next summer we will be traveling for 7-8 weeks out west, which sounds like it will really test the setup. I would rather not spend the money if I don't need to, but if I'm going to end up there anyway then I'd rather do it now than later. Thoughts???
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:08 AM   #2
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An Equal-I-Zer 4 way system, Reese SC or Dual Cam system, or the BO wdh would be an improvement over what you have. But it is hard to fully understand what your feeling when towing....

Couple questions about the tv, tt, and wdh:

Have you readjusted the setup to your truck and how you have the tt loaded?

If you are using the 2-1/2" to 2" adapter sleeve, could what you feeling be due to the slop depending on your setup??? Usually the wdh shank (part the hitch head bolts to) doesn't move in he receiver hitch, but a possibility.

If you do buy a new wdh, I would suggest buying a 2-1/2" shank. Less chance if the adapter sleev being lost, plus it probably will be easier to setup the new wdh with less slop between the shank and receiver hitch.

Do you have enough tw when loaded for a trip? Or still enough on the return trip home?

Tire pressure on both the truck and tt high enough? Run the tt tires at the max cold pressure, and the truck starting at the suggested pet the door jamb sticker, adjusting up or down as needed until you find the right air pressure.

If you can, a trip across the CAT Scales (or similar) may not hurt just to know exactly what your weights are and if you have enough tw or not. Just follow the CAT Scale how to link in my signature if needed.

Good luck!!!
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:29 AM   #3
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We were not happy with the lack of performance from the dealer provided and installed Reese Pro Series WDH with friction anti-sway. We contacted a local trailer/hitch shop to discuss our options. The owner had extensive experience towing TT's from the manufactures to the dealers. He suggested the Andersen WDH for our F250 and Whitehawk 27DSRL combination. Had it installed this past Friday. The tow home was great! Took it out for a test run towing in four directions in a 30mph gusting wind. No sway. Very quiet. The DW says she feels confident enough to drive and loves the ease of hitching and unhitching.

There are several excellent hitches out there. You just need to find the one that works with your combination.

Happy camping.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:31 AM   #4
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The Equalizer is a slightly better hitch (in my opinion), but it isn't so much better that it would make sense to replace what you have now. I don't really like how the hitch you have is doing the sway control, *but* that doesn't explain the issue you are having. Does it feel like the trailer is 'bucking' when you accelerate or slow down? Sounds like you have some 'slop' somewhere in the setup maybe?

When you bought the trailer, did you adjust the hitch that came with it for your truck or did someone set that up for you? The setup on your particular hitch is actually a lot easier than most, so there isn't a whole lot to look at there... Sorry if that's a silly question. I have heard of people that thought they could just run with someone else's setup without adjusting the hitch for their own truck. Best to rule that out first.

If you've confirmed your setup is good by taking the measurements required (all covered in the instructions for that hitch), then I can't think of anything else to add that wasn't covered in the posts above me.

You can definitely get a better hitch, but have to rule out other potential causes of the problem you are having before justifying the cash.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:43 AM   #5
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We do have a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter in the receiver. It makes sense that moving to a 2 1/2" shank out would take that variable out (and one less thing to worry about losing).

I think I have it adjusted correctly. When I purchased it a friend of mine who has done lots of towing set it up. Since I didn't know what I was doing I trusted what he was doing was right. I have a little more competence now so feel like I can take the measurements and know if things are right or not.

If dialed in, do you think the set up I have right now would be able to handle the winds and trucks for our trip out west?
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:44 AM   #6
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You didn't mention it, but is this your first travel trailer?

Check your trailer tires date codes. Since your trailer is a 2012, they might need to be replaced.

My thoughts are similar to what need-a-vacation said, but I'd start with ALL truck and trailer tires inflated to the maximum shown on their side wall. Try that, then lower the front tires a little and try that.

I'd also suggest checking the hitch setup to ensure you have the correct amount of weight transferred to the truck's front axle and that the trailer is level or slightly nose down.

The above take a little time and energy, but are important and free.

Then I'd seriously consider replacing, actually upgrading, the truck's shock absorbers. IMO, OEM shocks are made to deliver exactly what a truck manufacturer wants; a soft ride and a short life.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:48 AM   #7
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Yes, this is my first travel trailer and, yes, I am planning to replace my tires in about a month with Carlisle HD LRD (currently has LRC). While they are doing that I am having them put on metal valve stems so that sometime in the next year or so I can also get a TPMS.

I have quickly learned that purchasing a camper is only the beginning of a long list of additional expenses. I am trying to be smart and prioritize them. The tires are at the top of my list but the others move up and down the priorities list depending on the day. If the current WDH is in need of replacement then I think that moves to #2, then stabilizers (I'm a super light sleeper and have 3 girls and a wife who all can't seem to be still when they sleep), TPMS, Grill, GPS. Unfortunately, nothing on this list is inexpensive.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:02 PM   #8
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Moving up in tire quality and load range is always a good idea.

I delivered many JayFeathers 'back in the day' and they were always a pleasure to tow. The 'surging' you mention could be perfectly normal depending the road surface and something you'll become accustomed to over time. But, unwanted side-to-side movement, sway, movement is bad and is the motion anti-sway hitches and mechanisms control best.

You haven't mentioned any sway problems. So, do your 'due diligence', inflate the tires to their maximum, get the hitch installation instructions, and go through the hitch setup yourself. Ask anyone on this site, not all dealerships get the setup right. When towing, your trailer should be level or slightly nose down and your spring bars need enough tension to transfer weight to the front of the tow vehicle.

As bansai said, 'You can definitely get a better hitch, but rule out other potential causes of the problem you are having before justifying the cash.'

When camping, to reduce the trailer 'rock and roll', check the different brands of X-type chocks that go between the trailer tires. Those help stop the fore & aft movement of the trailer. Camco makes some inexpensive ones that work for us. You can also find DIY examples online.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nOZ View Post
We were not happy with the lack of performance from the dealer provided and installed Reese Pro Series WDH with friction anti-sway. We contacted a local trailer/hitch shop to discuss our options. The owner had extensive experience towing TT's from the manufactures to the dealers. He suggested the Andersen WDH for our F250 and Whitehawk 27DSRL combination. Had it installed this past Friday. The tow home was great! Took it out for a test run towing in four directions in a 30mph gusting wind. No sway. Very quiet. The DW says she feels confident enough to drive and loves the ease of hitching and unhitching.

There are several excellent hitches out there. You just need to find the one that works with your combination.

Happy camping.
That's great, glad you're enjoying the Andersen. We love ours. Did they tack weld the brackets to your trailer or just bolt them on? Mine were bolted on but they tend to shift a little, despite the set screw and even if torqued to manufacturer's specifications. This spring I'm going to tack weld the front of each bracket to the frame as the manufacturer suggests in their installation guide.

I'll be curious to hear what a trip to the scales shows you on actual weight distribution. I hope it pushes enough weight to your front axle. I really believe in the anti-sway performance of this hitch and if I can get the weight distribution right I'll shout about it from the rooftops. Externally your trailer is almost a twin for my 28DSBH, so whatever one of us learns should be useful to the other. Take care!
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by flintsters View Post
snip.....next summer we will be traveling for 7-8 weeks out west, which sounds like it will really test the setup. I would rather not spend the money if I don't need to, but if I'm going to end up there anyway then I'd rather do it now than later. Thoughts???
The WDH that you have should manage the weight distribution of your TV/TT combination well if adjusted correctly, but I agree the 2 1/2" to 2" adapter sleeve can contribute to some movement especially if the TT is towing a little nose up.

Also, if your using only one friction control sway bar with your 33ft long TT, please note most WDH manufactures recommend using "two" (one on each side of A-frame) on 26ft long or greater TT's.

As mentioned, a WDH with "integrated sway control" (Equal-i-zer, Reese Straight Line, etc.) is an upgrade in sway control to your present WDH setup, plus you don't have to deal with the two separate friction control sway bars.

Using the fender height method for WDH adjustments get's one in the ballpark and results can very depending on the TV suspension in question. The only way to truly "dial-in" a WDH is visiting a CAT scale and working with your actual weights under your TV/TT loaded conditions. Plus, the CAT will confirm if your TT loaded tongue weight is in the 13% to 15% range of the TT's gross weight...., enhancing the functionality of the WDH.

CAT scale 'how-to': http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

Bob
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:27 PM   #11
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I know what you mean by the forward and backward surging. I have Sierra 2500 and a Jayflight 27BHS, tied together with an E4 Equalizer. I'm a newbie, and only towed a couple times to and from the dealer. Never felt any side to side movement, but definitely a lot of front to back shifting. I assumed that was normal. Maybe not? I'm waiting for the weather to break, so I can officially load the trailer up and head to the cat scales. Assuming the dealer managed to get the Equalizer setup correctly, I guess the next culprit is the 2 1/2" to 2" sleeve. Anything I can do about that now? (I'm assuming the dealer isn't going to be real excited about giving me a brand new 2 1/2" Equalizer. Are there better sleeves, or better ways to fasten them? I'm using whatever GMC threw in the glovebox when I bought the truck.


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Old 03-20-2017, 06:04 PM   #12
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The 2 1/2" to 2 inch adapter has got to be your problem, my trailer is similar in size and weight, pulling with a Ram 2500, and I have the EZ-lift WDH just as you do, but I do not have the anti sway bar, nor do I need it.

I have not felt what you are describing, I think the primary difference between mine and yours is the adapter.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:42 PM   #13
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I am also just using the adapter that came with the truck. My camper is not a high rider by any means and I'm at the bottom of the shank so I can't drop the ball down any further. It could be riding a little nose up since my truck sits pretty tall, which, it sounds like combined with the slop with the adapter, could be some of the cause. I'm anxious to rip off the cover and pull things out to see. I think tomorrow is supposed to be nice so perhaps I can take the measurements and at least see if it is set up properly right now. If it isn't then I'll need to figure things out later on. If it is then it sounds like I'm heading off to the scales sometime soon to see what the weights are looking like (which I am planning to do no matter what since I have never done it). I won't be doing that for a while since we have plenty of winter left and don't want to be putting water in the tanks yet. If it's set up right, and I have the right tongue weight then it sounds like my options are to get a 2.5" shank (which looks like about $80) and use that with my Eaz Lift or get a new set up.

I am glad to hear that I am not the only person who has experienced the push-pull sensation....it almost feels like I'm going to get sea sick (perhaps a little dramatic, but not by much). I am currently using 2 friction sway bars and have not experienced side to side sway; it's all forward and backward.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:35 AM   #14
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My trailer is about the same size and weight. Our first long trip was rough because the ride was so harsh. Since then I have upgraded the shocks to Bilsteins, lowered the pressure in the rear tires to 70 and the front tires to 60. I have slacked off on the EazLift so there's not quite as much tension. But to be honest, the ride is not improved that much... still pretty harsh. I do have the adapter sleeve, too but not much can be done about that. I've been considering going to a Blue Ox 1503 hitch for under-slung couplers, but haven't done it yet. As I've said elsewhere, I'm cheap...
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:12 AM   #15
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So, after thinking about this some more, I don't see how the adapter could have anything to do with forward/backward movement. When everything is hooked up, the pin locks the receiver, the adapter, and the shank all together as one unit. The only way anything could move forward or backward, was if the hole for the pin was significantly bigger than the pin itself. Is the push -pull feel normal, and us newbies just didn't know to expect that? I equate the feeling to running with a jogging stroller. You never get the stroller to cruise at exactly the same speed as you. If you don't keep a constant firm grip on the handle, then you are constantly making little speed corrections as the stroller tries to slow down or speed up. I feel like I'm getting that same feeling from the trailer. Like the trailer's inertia and the truck's inertia are off sync by a fraction of a second. Like I said originally, I figured that was normal.


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Old 03-22-2017, 07:36 AM   #16
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Bearcat77 - that is exactly what we experience as well, but your description was much more accurate than what I wrote. I also assumed that was normal, but the more we experienced it I am not sure.

The more I read about people who have had the same hitch that I am currently running (Eaz Lift) and have upgraded to something else reported significantly better rides. I am just not sure if the $500-$600 cost is worth it. Blue Ox and Equalizer seem to be the most frequent upgrades that I read about, but the number of options and differing opinions/reviews are making my head spin. It sounds like I still need to check if it is set up correctly, head to the scales, and see what my new tires will do for me.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:57 AM   #17
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So, after thinking about this some more, I don't see how the adapter could have anything to do with forward/backward movement. ~snip
It may not be the pin. Keep in mind there is slop between the 2.5" receiver and sleeve. Then more slop between the 2" opening on the sleeve and the shank on the WD Hitch. So in theory there is twice the slop between a WD hitch that has a 2.5" shank and a 2" that requires the sleeve.

My thought is that if you have a forward back motion and not sway it probably won't matter much what WD hitch you use because the hitch is there to help more with sway than forward back motion. So if you compare any two 2" WD hitches they are going to perform about the same in this motion. Now one might be better than the next in terms of sway control but that isn't the issue being addressed. If you compare any 2" to any 2.5", the 2.5" will have less slop.

Quote:
Is the push -pull feel normal, and us newbies just didn't know to expect that?
I do agree that you are going to have some push pull slop with a trailer. There is a lot of weight back there. There is slop in the pin, the receiver and the ball. Supposedly the Equa-flex axle setup should help with that some. Not sure if all campers have it and I have yet to pull our camper to see how it compared to our old Dutchmen but we had forward back motion with that. I don't think there is a way to eliminate it totally.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:03 AM   #18
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snip..... It sounds like I still need to check if it is set up correctly, head to the scales,.....snip
X2

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