Very disappointed in Jayco's wiring methods

[wayfun]

The water heater in my 25RKS has not worked on electric since I bought it earlier this year. So today I decided to do some troubleshooting and see if I could get it to work.

I found no 120v at the element. I checked the wall switch and relay and both were good. I confirmed voltage at the breaker so I started at the heater and worked backward looking for 120v.

I found that Jayco had run solid house type wiring from the breaker box and joined that to stranded wire just before the relay. That joint was made with an ill fitting scotch-lock type automotive connector. Both connections were loose and there were burn marks on the common wiring. See the attached photo.

I think this is not a very safe way make high voltage connections. They should have used an enclosed terminal block of some type.

Dennis

[Camping Couple]

Definitely should forward those pictures to Jayco along with a detailed description of what you found. Thankfully a fire didn't occur. A recall may be in order if this is the same setup in other models.

Mark

[Jagiven]

Were the wire nuts inside a junction box? My understanding of the building codes that TTs are built to all 120VAC connections have to be in a box, just like in your home (same rules apply). Where the 12VDC is considered a low power source and do not need to be in a box.

[wayfun]

The high volt connections were just scotch-lock connectors with tape around them. The house type wire was secured to a drain pipe with a zip tie. In the lower part of this photo you can see the connectors with tape. The only thing in a box was the relay.

Dennis

[Jagiven]

Very very very wrong! My guess the fabricator on the job was behind and that is how he got his job done before the unit was pushed off to the next station.

I wonder if others who have this same unit (25RKS) have this same wiring setup? What year is your unit?

If you bought it new I would also recommend contacting Jayco.

[wayfun]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Very very very wrong! My guess the fabricator on the job was behind and that is how he got his job done before the unit was pushed off to the next station.

I wonder if others who have this same unit (25RKS) have this same wiring setup? What year is your unit?

If you bought it new I would also recommend contacting Jayco.

I bought the trailer used and it is a 2007 unit.

Dennis

[msturtz]

That is definately against code. 120 v must be in a box

[wayfun]

I would be interested in knowing if other '07 Jaycos have the water heater wired like this. I do plan to send a note to Jayco with this information.

Dennis

[Tail_gunner]

I wouldn't hold your breath on getting Jayco to even recognize your little electrical issue.

I never heard anything from them about this issue:
Almost-had-an-electrical-fire!!

[VicS1950]

Originally Posted by wayfun

I bought the trailer used and it is a 2007 unit.

Dennis

Are you certain that the dual heat source water heater is OEM? Was a dual source water heater standard? My 2001 23B is propane only. Maybe a previous owner had the tank replaced?

Just questions. That is some very poor workmanship at any rate. Good job tracking it down. vic

[wayfun]

Originally Posted by VicS1950

Are you certain that the dual heat source water heater is OEM? Was a dual source water heater standard? My 2001 23B is propane only. Maybe a previous owner had the tank replaced?

Just questions. That is some very poor workmanship at any rate. Good job tracking it down. vic

Based on original paperwork that came with the trailer the dual heat source water heater was original. I suppose it could have been replaced but I found no signs of it being changed.

Dennis

[wayfun]

Originally Posted by Tail_gunner

I wouldn't hold your breath on getting Jayco to even recognize your little electrical issue.

I never heard anything from them about this issue:
Almost-had-an-electrical-fire!!

I think after reading your story I'll check all of the connections in my load center before I put the cover back in place. Thanks.

Dennis

[David472]

It would not surprise me, if the previous owner had changed that wiring connection, and what you see is his idea of a good connection. Good job finding the problem!

[Iraqvet05]

Maybe I'm not following the issue correctly but isn't the use of wire nuts to connect stranded and copper wire pretty common in 120V applications? I see stranded to solid connections all the time in celing light fixtures so maybe the issue is with the current draw by the hot water heater. Why isn't the casing stripped back on the neutral wire in the picture? Is that on a 15a or 20a breaker they used with 14/2 wire?

[VicS1950]

Originally Posted by David472

It would not surprise me, if the previous owner had changed that wiring connection, and what you see is his idea of a good connection. Good job finding the problem!

I'm not trying to defend Jayco, but that situation doesn't look like what I've found in my 23b. Overall the OEM wiring seems pretty well done. By all means see what Jayco has to say.

Perhaps just the heater element was changed? In an empty water tank the element will burn out rather quickly when powered. Anyone who would make open air electrical connections like that might also power up an MT water heater tank.

vic

[msturtz]

All electrical codes require 120V connections to be enclosed in a suitable box. In addition, you cannot mix 120V and 12V in the same box either. All 120V wiring must be on approved Romex or other wire approved for high voltage AC use (unsheathed wire must be in conduit). There is nothing about this that could pass any code inspection.

[wayfun]

Originally Posted by Iraqvet05

Maybe I'm not following the issue correctly but isn't the use of wire nuts to connect stranded and copper wire pretty common in 120V applications? I see stranded to solid connections all the time in celing light fixtures so maybe the issue is with the current draw by the hot water heater. Why isn't the casing stripped back on the neutral wire in the picture? Is that on a 15a or 20a breaker they used with 14/2 wire?

The connection was not made with wire nuts. They were scotch-lock connectors similar to this picture. You just clamp them on the wire and hope the metallic spade slices through the insulation. These may work for low voltage applications but I think they are poor for 120V.



Dennis

[msturtz]

X2 this type of connector is never authorized for 120v applications.

[Iraqvet05]

Thanks, Dennis. I've used them wiring stereos in my cars but never knew the name of them. Makes sense now.

[eldermike]

A good use of those type connectors has not yet been invented. Until then I would suggest not using them for anything. And finding those connectors suggests a home repair job to me.