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Old 08-28-2016, 09:13 AM   #1
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Wasted Heat

Our Eagle 320rlds has a small room for the toilet, roughly 3x4 feet. The furnace is on the opposite side of the wall and there is a round vent that blows heat, a lot of it, into that tiny room, much of which goes right up and through the fan vent opening.

What was the designer thinking???
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:23 AM   #2
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Our Eagle 320rlds has a small room for the toilet, roughly 3x4 feet. The furnace is on the opposite side of the wall and there is a round vent that blows heat, a lot of it, into that tiny room, much of which goes right up and through the fan vent opening.

What was the designer thinking???
Nothing worse than putting your rear end on a cold toilet seat.
And there are water pipes and standing water in the toilet, and I assume a door on the toilet that is often closed to allow passage in the hall outside the toilet, so it makes sense to route heat into there.
We also have a floor vent in our bathroom, which is larger and at the rear of the trailer. We simply adjust the louvers on the vent to lessen, but not block the airflow to the toilet, as it does get warm in there.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:23 AM   #3
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I pulled the vent off placed tin foil over the hose outlet, clamped it down, put a screwdriver shaft hole in the tin foil and put everything back in the wall.. put a little warm air into the bathroom but not a lot.. (since doing that I have put a big buddy cat heater in the RV and stopped using the furnace..)
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:45 AM   #4
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When closing a discharge be sure there is enough discharge outlets (look in the manual) for correct static pressure. Remember an RV has 3 @ 4 discharge outlets compared with homes who have more than 15. It is easy to build up pressure at the heat chamber which will kick the limit switch or sail switch quicker.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:44 PM   #5
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When closing a discharge be sure there is enough discharge outlets (look in the manual) for correct static pressure. Remember an RV has 3 @ 4 discharge outlets compared with homes who have more than 15. It is easy to build up pressure at the heat chamber which will kick the limit switch or sail switch quicker.
Yes, and that's why I wold not restrict that flow. Worked HVAC as a young man.

And the volume and velocity IS WAY too much. You cannot stay in there with the door closed. I'd say 50% of the output goes into that space. Just poor engineering.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:24 PM   #6
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Most RV's are poorly designed some have heat discharge beside the return air.
Most Jay Feathers the heating duct is laying in water what get pooled there and rust out the flex duct.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:28 PM   #7
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How did this possibly get by you when you purchased the unit?
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:43 PM   #8
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I noticed when removing the underbelly for to put in insulation. Electrical wires and plumbing rubbing on cross members and go on. It was a 3 week job to fix things up and put R15 insulation in the underbelly. From the front water would get in because it never was properly designed and sealed. You really buy a finished RV shell, but the real finish work comes when the RV is home.

I always wondered why some RV's go up in flames!
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:16 PM   #9
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I haven't yet dropped any of the coroplast to do any look-see. Haven't needed to. That may change, since we're doing a winter seasonal for our "snowmobile camp."

I would be surprised to find anything really wrong under there, the trailer has been essentially trouble free.


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Old 08-29-2016, 01:37 PM   #10
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How did this possibly get by you when you purchased the unit?
What makes you think it did? It was a special order, we drove 1000 miles to pick it up. Was I supposed to queer the deal?
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