Water heater light, but goes out.

[theoldwizard1]

New 287BHSW (so yes, it is going in for repair).

Flip the switch for the WH, the gas solenoids open, the sparker sparks and the burner comes on ... for 5-10 seconds ! Wait about 30 seconds and it repeats. After 3 time, it quits trying and the little light next to the WH switch comes on ("failed to light" ?).

As I said, the dealer will ultimately have to deal with it, but what is the likely issue ?

[Robbbyr]

Does your stove light and have steady flames? Fridge work okay on propane? Furnace? Trying to figure out whether you may have a propane delivery issue. Sometimes a regulator can malfunction and not deliver enough pressure causing erratic operations.

If other appliances work okay focus on the water heater. Any spider webs in the gas burner tube? You mentioned this is a new unit, did it ever perform satisfactorily? Unfortunately it could be a bad control module, others have experienced similar symptoms and found that to be the case. But rule out the other things first if you can.

[theoldwizard1]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

Does your stove light and have steady flames? Fridge work okay on propane? Furnace? Trying to figure out whether you may have a propane delivery issue. Sometimes a regulator can malfunction and not deliver enough pressure causing erratic operations.

If other appliances work okay focus on the water heater. Any spider webs in the gas burner tube? You mentioned this is a new unit, did it ever perform satisfactorily? Unfortunately it could be a bad control module, others have experienced similar symptoms and found that to be the case. But rule out the other things first if you can.

All other gas appliances work fine. I actually got the water heater to light and STAY LIT, once, by using a BBQ lighter.

[DanNJanice]

Most of these types of devices have what is called a flame sensor. Its job is to determine if the burner is lit and if not, to turn off the gas. Based on your description of the problem, I would suspect that is the issue. Sometimes the sensor is a separate electrode that pokes into the flame, sometimes it is actually integrated inside the sparker.
See if you can find any info on how this is adjusted in your manual and also "wiggle" all the wires you can find that plug into connectors. Sometimes a bad connection can cause these kinds of issues.

[theoldwizard1]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

See if you can find any info on how this is adjusted in your manual and also "wiggle" all the wires you can find that plug into connectors. Sometimes a bad connection can cause these kinds of issues.

The manual is pretty useless. The sensor must be part of the sparker, because the only thing "in the flame" are the sparker and the ground electrode. Reseated all the connectors. Also found out there is a 2A fuse kind of hiding there. I'm sure I don't have a 2A fuse in my bag of spares !

[BuddyRay]

I had a similar problem a few years ago on a Sunline - but same water heater.
The "flame sensor" - technical term is thermocouple. On these units it is built into what you call the "ground electrode". Something in this unit expands when it gets hot - and pushes a switch in the controller. If the thermocouple doesn't get hot enough - the controller assumes the gas didn't "light" and shuts off to prevent gas build up.

In my unit, after changing controllers and much other grief, I discovered that all I needed to do was bend the bracket holding the thermocouple to put it more in the center of the flame when it was lit. I hope it's that simple for you.

[theoldwizard1]

Originally Posted by BuddyRay

The "flame sensor" - technical term is thermocouple.

If it looks like the typical WH thermocouple, then no I don't have anything like that.

Originally Posted by BuddyRay

On these units it is built into what you call the "ground electrode". Something in this unit expands when it gets hot - and pushes a switch in the controller.

I called it a "ground electrode" because it is welded to the bracket that hold the sparker.

Originally Posted by BuddyRay

In my unit, after changing controllers and much other grief, I discovered that all I needed to do was bend the bracket holding the thermocouple to put it more in the center of the flame when it was lit. I hope it's that simple for you.

The one time I did get it to light and stay on, I observed that both electrodes were well into the flame. In fact their tips were red hot.

[suzhou]

Having the same issue with my water heater on our new trailer. Taking it in for service for that and other issues. All other gas appliances work fine (except furnace which won't light at all). If I let the water heater cool off for a long period it will light fine and heat a tank. After that it is hit or miss on whether it will light again. Mostly it won't. I tried adjusting the flame sensor a bit more into the flame area, connections check, etc. No luck. Service dept says likely a bad controller or sensor.

[swtbrad]

I had a similar problem with my new 267 BHSW. The water heater would cycle on the first time but would have the same problem as yours when trying to cycle back on. I had to take it in to the dealer three times before they finally replaced the circuit board. I have had it out one time since and it worked fine. Something i noticed on mine was that the igniter would continue to run after the gas had lit.

[theoldwizard1]

Originally Posted by swtbrad

Something i noticed on mine was that the igniter would continue to run after the gas had lit.

If the little LEDs on the controller indicate the the igniter is "firing" then, yes, the one time I got the WH to stay lit, the igniter continued to run.

[mike837go]

Originally Posted by theoldwizard1

New 287BHSW (so yes, it is going in for repair).

Flip the switch for the WH, the gas solenoids open, the sparker sparks and the burner comes on ... for 5-10 seconds ! Wait about 30 seconds and it repeats. After 3 time, it quits trying and the little light next to the WH switch comes on ("failed to light" ?).

As I said, the dealer will ultimately have to deal with it, but what is the likely issue ?

Look for a kinked hose. Drove my fridge !NUTZ! until I repositioned the hose to ease the curve from the manifold.