Water pump gets power, faucets get no water

[John K.]

I have a 2012 Jayco Jay Feather Ultralite x20e. I want to sanitize the fresh water tank and the pipes to the faucets. I followed the manual's instructions, and the pump is purring, but no water is coming out of the faucets. There is a step in the manual I don't understand, and maybe that's the problem. Here's the steps, abridged: close drain valves, pour bleach solution into gravity fill inlet (and thus into the fresh water tank), top off with clean water, then turn on the water pump (I did all of this). Here's the questionable step: "After the recommended amount of solution is in the tank, turn off the water pump." The only tank mentioned so far is the fresh water tank, but the directions already said to put all of the solution into the tank and fill it up with clean water -- what do they mean with this step? Anyway, I turned off the pump and opened the faucets, as instructed, and nothing happened. The water heater bypass valve is closed, and the heater in/out pipe valves are open to let the bleach solution into the heater, as instructed. The battery is fully charged, so that's not it. The manual did say the pump needs to reach 45 lbs. pressure, and then will shut off automatically. It ran for 20 minutes and still there was no water to the faucets. It can't take that long to build up the necessary pressure, can it? Thanks in advance for any help. This forum is a great resource for newcomers such as me.

[rryman]

Sounds like water is not getting from the tank to the pump, maybe due to a kinked hose?? Air leak on the suction side of the pump? Is the pump ready accessible? Maybe check the inlet hose from tank. Some, if not most pumps have an inlet screen on the inlet side of the pump-maybe stopped up with something?

[rryman]

Also check to make sure the winterizing valve used to suck in antifreeze to the system is closed at the pump or it will certainly suck air through that.

[fastercat]

We have a 2014 eagle and this is our second season, and when I 1st put water in it, the pump would purr, but no water, had me stumped for 2 weekends as we leave ours on a lot up north, got a new pump and same thing, ended up be a kinked line, question is, how did it kink thru the winter, it was never touched.

[DadRich]

I have a 28BHS that seems to take forever to prime as well.
First, check to see that the valvle that closes off the fresh water tank is open, and the valve that lets you suck the antifreeze is closed. My valves are located fairly close to the pump.
Second, (and I have no basis to back this up with physics) but it seems that if I am trying to prime with the lines to the water heater open, there is a small amount of air coming out, but the pump never primes. I suspect that the water pump needs some sort of air back pressure to prime.

If I keep the water heater out of the loop, and all valves closed the pump seems to start to draw water. Then I periodically open the cold water valve on the kitchen sink to "burp" the air, eventually after about 5-6 oepnings, the pump primes and shuts off when the pressure builds.

The best luck I have had is to hook a hose up to the city water (pressure) connection, purge the antifreeze, and fill the lines with water. Then run the pump with the water heater closed until it stops. Then I open the water heater and allow it to fill with the chlorine solution, then run through the taps. (If not sanitizing, I use the city water pressure to fill the water heater)

[John K.]

I appreciate all the tips mentioned in dealing with the problem of the water pump working but no water getting to the faucets. I didn't realize there was a valve that opens and closes the line from the fresh water tank to the pump. When I was checking for the valve that closes off the siphon to pull antifreeze into the system, lo and behold, just below that valve was the valve on the line from tank to pump. It was closed. I opened it, and everything worked well. Thanks again to everyone, John K.

[FPM III]

Originally Posted by John K.

... I didn't realize there was a valve that opens and closes the line from the fresh water tank to the pump. ...

The valve's purpose is to prevent the flow of antifreeze (when you winterize), or the backflow of city water (if the water pump's check valve fails while you're connected to city water) into the FWT. Just remember to close both it, and the FWT drain valve again next fall before you winterize or the antifreeze might go into your FWT and/or out the FWT's drain.

[John K.]

That's a good point, about closing both valves in the fall. Also, should I close the fresh water tank valve on the hose going from it to the pump when we hook up to city water just in case the pump's check valve fails? And -- this is the first time we've dewinterized -- what's the problem with antifreeze going into the tank? I could understand it just in case there's some water left in it before storing for the winter? Again, thanks, John K

[rryman]

…………..- what's the problem with antifreeze going into the tank?

Probably nothing, other than the expense of the anti freeze, and having to flush out the FW tank good. First year I winterized our first TT, (Jayco 21'), I couldn't believe how much anti freeze those lines held. When I got to 1-1/2 gallons, I stopped and looked around, and found that I had left one of the low point drains open. It didn't take near as much to winterize it the next year!! Live and learn!

[John K.]

I figured as much, but thought I'd ask. Now all I have to do is empty and refill the system a time or two, or until the bleach is flushed, and then I'm ready to go. My first trip this spring begins a week from Thursday, into central Wisconsin for a bird-banding event. I'm camping at a park about 20 minutes from the site. Should be a great time. Again, thanks to you and everyone who offered suggestions to resolve this problem. I still can't believe there's no mention of the valve b/w the FWT and the pump in the trailer manual OR in the directions the RV dealership handed out for de/winterizing. John K