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Old 04-10-2016, 08:04 PM   #21
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I can't see sig lines on my phone with TapaTalk. I assumed it wasn't the best on a bigger camper and I appreciate your honest opinion. But you agree that noise isn't a necessary factor in wdh hitches with sway control. Thank you. Thanks for the honest feedback sir.

We all benefit from honest feedback....
The noise of a well working sway/wdh doing it's job it music to my ears. To SWMBO, to here, it wasn't music! LOL

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Old 04-10-2016, 09:59 PM   #22
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Would the Andersen hitch work with my underslung coupler?
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:34 PM   #23
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My trailer has an underslung coupler. The Equal-i-Zer brand hitch works very well. No issues with ground clearance including going off road to boondock. I get no push from passing transports. We have towed with this setup for between 7 to 10 000 miles each year for the past 4 years. It does make some noise turning through campgrounds but who cares. What matters is how well it works towing down the highway.
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:23 PM   #24
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My trailer has an underslung coupler. The Equal-i-Zer brand hitch works very well. No issues with ground clearance including going off road to boondock. I get no push from passing transports. We have towed with this setup for between 7 to 10 000 miles each year for the past 4 years. It does make some noise turning through campgrounds but who cares. What matters is how well it works towing down the highway.
X2 on the Equal-i-zer brand 4-point WDH. I've owned mine roughly 10 years and hauled MANY trailers with it. I believe it does an excellent job of reducing sway.

The noise is not an issue as far as I am concerned. I do touch up the trailer brackets and the load bars with spray paint from time to time. The fresh paint looks nice, isn't messy, and reduces the noise.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:34 AM   #25
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Decisions, decisions.......so many good ones out there. I just want ease of use and smooth towing. My Reese pro series is a major pita!
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:44 AM   #26
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Watched a video on the Equalizer and I worry I won't have the strength to move the bars once locked into the hitch head. Looks like they are stiff because of the sway control in them. Keep in mind I am 110 pounds soaking wet. ha ha I have a hard enough time pushing my Pro round bars up into the hitch head. Watch this guy.

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Old 04-11-2016, 06:55 AM   #27
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The bars can be very hard to remove. I have used this system and used to keep a rubber hammer to tap the bars off the brackets when needed.

I agree with others about the noise. It is normal operation for most WDH. It used to embarrass my family when we would come home from a trip and drive into the neighborhood with the bars moaning...
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:29 PM   #28
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Moving the bars of the Equal-i-Zer on and off the L brackets is easy if you raise the tongue high enough with the tongue jack after hitching to the tow vehicle. I have never used the pry bar (or a mallet). You just push them into place, drop the pins in and lower the unit down.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:36 PM   #29
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Because what I have now is very noisy and scares the bejeezes out of me. ha ha Especially while turning.
That noise lets you know its working is what I was always told...the friction. Do not grease it.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:37 PM   #30
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Moving the bars of the Equal-i-Zer on and off the L brackets is easy if you raise the tongue high enough with the tongue jack after hitching to the tow vehicle. I have never used the pry bar (or a mallet). You just push them into place, drop the pins in and lower the unit down.
This, jack the trailer up with the truck connected still and they go on and off pretty easy.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:20 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by owenssailor View Post
Moving the bars of the Equal-i-Zer on and off the L brackets is easy if you raise the tongue high enough with the tongue jack after hitching to the tow vehicle. I have never used the pry bar (or a mallet). You just push them into place, drop the pins in and lower the unit down.
This. Like him, I have never used a mallet or the pry bar.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:49 PM   #32
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Ok good to know........thank you!
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:55 PM   #33
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I have the Huskey, and I wouldnt say its noisey. I agree with previous post that you have to grease it. Not a lot of grease, maybe just a pump or two. If you havent greased at all I would maybe clean it before adding grease.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:27 PM   #34
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Just a few drops of oil is recommended on the bars what contact the hitch head.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:33 PM   #35
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Just a few drops of oil is recommended on the bars what contact the hitch head.
Can I use white lithium grease or spray?
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:16 AM   #36
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Your hitch has Zerk fittings for a reason.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:17 AM   #37
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Your hitch has Zerk fittings for a reason.
What are "zerk" fittings?
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:19 AM   #38
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Google it. It's for greasing the hitch head. Your current hitch has one on each side.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:29 AM   #39
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The owners manual of the Reese Pro series makes no mention of zerk fittings at all.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:12 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by owenssailor View Post
Moving the bars of the Equal-i-Zer on and off the L brackets is easy if you raise the tongue high enough with the tongue jack after hitching to the tow vehicle. I have never used the pry bar (or a mallet). You just push them into place, drop the pins in and lower the unit down.

X2, I have never used the pry bar. I just keep raising the tongue until the bars are loose, same for putting them on.

My back is not the best anymore. For me, I move the wdh in pieces. The bars are the easiest part to deal with. The Hitch head, is fairly heavy, but the worst part is the awkwardness of carrying it from the storage spot, to the receiver. Been thinking about making a little dolly to put it on, to make rolling it over to the TV, a piece of cake.
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