WDH question

Eckman · 09-23-2013, 10:31 PM

Hello. We just bought our 2014 264BH on July 30. The dealer did all of the hitch work using an EAZ Lift WDH with 1000 lb spring bars and dual friction control slides. We have used it about 5 times so far. My spring bar couplers are very hard to move up enough to pull the cotter pins out. They both also pop up about a half inch then slam back down once engaged. It appears that one of them may have even moved forward an inch. They only have the one main bolt on the back side, can I safely drill out the two lower holes to better secure them or will that compromise the strength of the tongue? Thank you forum friends.

tnchuck100 · 09-24-2013, 04:11 AM

I would not drill holes. If the latch up part is moving just snug up the bolt another half turn. When the TV and the trailer are straight the chains should be perfectly vertical. The bars should be close to parallel with the frame. Definitely not able to touch the frame. Not less than 5 links under tension.

As far as having a hard time removing the cotter pins that sounds like the holes are not lined up as the should be. Redrilling those may be in order while the latch up is in the snapped up position.

weekender · 09-24-2013, 06:23 AM

As tnchuck100 said do not drill holes in the frame. I had the same thing happen with my original trailer so all I did was move the latch up part and snug the bolt a little. Once snug it should not move.

As for the issue with the cotter pins remember you have to take weight off the tongue by raising the front of the trailer up when it is attached to the hitch on the truck in order to attach the spring weight distribution bars. This should remove the majority of the tension and will allow you to snap them up or down without them slamming back down. Once set you just lower the tongue back down and make sure the tongue jack is out of the way for travel. One note that I do not agree with is the 5 links under tension. I have an F250 with my 2011 Jayco 29QBH and can only get one link under tension due to the design of the frame on this model. No way would I ever be able to get 5 links under tension. Another way to know how many links is to measure the rise of the front end at each link setting as compared to when the tow vehicle is unhooked form the travel trailer. Of course do this on level ground and when the trailer is loaded like you are ready to go camping. You want as close to equal with the trailer unhooked as hooked, but of course their will be some slight difference regardless depending upon your tow vehicle.

Hope this helps.

Eckman · 09-24-2013, 08:32 AM

Thanks for the replies. The first couple of times out with the trailer everything was fine. The cotter pin removal wasn't hard before. Now I have to use the bar and pry so hard upwards that the bottom part of the bracket moves out and up from the frame just to be able to remove the cotter pin to attach the chains. Then it moves back down with the weight of the spring bar. I have all links under tension except one as this is how the dealer set it up for my drive home. The bars are level when hooked up. It does appear that on both sides the spring bar chains are rubbing the frame during travel, is that normal?

gpmilliken · 09-24-2013, 09:12 AM

Can you post some pictures? It might aid the description.

Old Blue · 09-24-2013, 11:57 AM

I have bent two snap up brackets the bottom of the bracket just bent up I got in touch with Reese and they sent me two new improved snap up brackets and instructions on how to mount them to tongue and where to drill holes to bolt the bottom of bracket to the frame I have the dual cam hitch and my coupler is welded tp the bottom of the frame on the tongue and in the Reese instructions it lists Jayco trailers as the only or one of the few trailers that will have this bracket problem.

Rustic Eagle · 09-24-2013, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eckman

snip........ It does appear that on both sides the spring bar chains are rubbing the frame during travel, is that normal?

I agree, a couple of close-up pics of your WDH with your TV/TT hitched would be helpful.

I will assume for now that you have the "eaz-lift elite" WDH with the round bars (please advise if otherwise).

Eaz-lift elite WDH installation instructions: http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/Inst...structions.pdf

The spring bar chains shouldn't come into contact with the TT frame during normal TV turns, but may in a very tight TV turn. If the snap-up bracket isn't positioned correctly on the TT frame, then it is possible for the chain to touch the TT frame (chain vertical & TV/TT in straight line allows for proper for/aft movement of spring bars during TV turns). Also, if the chain-link isn't seated correctly on the snap-up bracket "hook", this could compromise the chain movement.

As far as the set-screw bolt on the backside of the snap-up bracket, it should only be tightened 1/4 turn (1/2 turn maximum), over tightening will cause the snap-up bracket saddle over the top of the TT frame to bend, and/or cause cotter pin placement issues.

Bolting a snap-up bracket to the Jayco frame isn't a problem (mine is) as long as it is done properly. In most cases issues associated with snap-up brackets moving or bending stem from the heavier tongue weights (1,200lbs plus). As mentioned, Reese even addresses this with their standard WDH's........, this is do to the 6" tall TT A-frames that many manufactures use, not just Jayco.

My bolted snap-up brackets: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...nap-up+bracket

Hope this helps.

Bob

Eckman · 09-24-2013, 01:48 PM

This is very good info. I will look at it when I get home later today and take some pics as well. Yes, the WDH is the elite with round bars. Thanks again.

Eckman · 09-24-2013, 08:06 PM

Here are a few pics, it's not hooked up to the TV but illustrates the type of bracket I am referring to. The one pic shows where I think the original placement was indicated by the mark where the bolt was originally placed. In another pic you can see where there has been some chain rubbing. When hooked up, the chains are perfectly up and down and the spring bars are parallel horizontally with the ground. We feel like our delivery was very rushed, the guy didn't even tell me how to operate my brake controller. I'm just concerned the hitch work was rushed as well. Dealer is 150 miles away at 5000 feet elevation lower then where I live so I feel going back there isn't viable.

William · 09-24-2013, 08:59 PM

I have the same brackets and they did the same thing. Get 4 self taping bolts and 4 fender washers put them in the square holes on the bracket in the frame that worked for my last Tt and the same brackets on my new Tt.

Rustic Eagle · 09-25-2013, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eckman

snip....... I'm just concerned the hitch work was rushed as well.....snip

Even if the RV dealer tech did install and adjust the WDH correctly, it was under "unloaded" TV/TT conditions. Most WDH's have to be re-adjusted once the TV/TT combination is under "loaded" conditions, I'm sure the tech failed to mention this.

Adjusting the WDH isn't a difficult task, just takes a little patience and the proper tools (ie; torque wrench, etc.). The main objective is to adjust the WDH so that the TV's front suspension is "returned" to it's "unhitched" height, and that the TT tows level (or slightly nose down).

Bob

Eckman · 09-25-2013, 01:14 AM

Looks like the best path forward is for me to educate myself on the proper installation/adjustment of my hitch. Well at least now I have something to do this weekend. Lol. Thank you for all of the replies, they are very helpful.

Rustic Eagle · 09-25-2013, 08:16 AM

I'm sure you will be fine adjusting your own WDH. Check your TV's owners manual and confirm if it has any specific requirements when using a WDH (ie; front suspension, etc.).

The eaz-lift installation instructions are "ok" to use..., but the WDH link below may provide a little more insight on the adjustment process and what to watch for. After opening the link, the top potion of the page addresses a standard WDH such as yours, ignore the remaining text on the subject of "Dual Cam setup" (Posted by JBarca on 6/06/06).

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/17730894.cfm

Tilting the ball mount and/or changing the number of chain links "under tension" will address weight transfer requirements.., and moving the ball mount up/down will address TT leveling requirements. Also, it's ok on the round spring bar WDH's if the spring bar tail has a "slight" up/down attitude, sometimes it's difficult to get them "perfectly parallel" to the TT frame.

Bob

mtnbikes · 09-27-2013, 10:13 PM

You just need to tighten the bolts that secure the bracket to the frame. Just remember to compensate for some movement of the bracket when tightening the bolts.
I used to have this system with one sway bar and I still felt sway with a 23' trailer. I'm sorry to say I was not happy with it. When I recently purchased our 2014 Whitehawk 28DSBH I switched to the 4 point equalizer system. All I have to say is what a difference...you might want to consider changing systems.

exjay1 · 09-29-2013, 07:03 AM

Sounds like the bars are under too much tension when loading/inloading them or the TT isnt raised high enough. Will likely have to tune the hitch angle and/or drop a link OR like what was stated above it was orginally set up unloaded (no gear in the TT or TV) and will again need to be re-tuned. When set up properly loading/unloading the bars shouldnt have that much tension on them to the point of fighting them or having the brackets pull away from the TT frame.

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