Weight distributing hitch

[Merlin]

Looking to purchase a new weight distributing hitch for my new trailer and think I am sold on the Reese Straight-Line hitch with the dual cam sway control. My one question is which is better: round bar or trunnion and for what reasons?

[Rustic Eagle]

Merlin,

When using the Reese "HP" Dual Cam with the taller TT A-frames, IMO round bars work best with TT's that have the ball coupler welded on top of the A-frame, and trunnion bars work best with the ball couplers welded to the bottom of the A-frame......, especially with the first "HP" model (the latest "HP" version is a tad more forgiving).

Both spring bar styles will work with either ball coupler locations, but I have found the above rule of thumb can reduce some minor adjustment/clearance issues on some TT's.

The Reese Straight Line in the round bar max's at a 1,200lb rating, which IMO may be a little lite if your loading habits are on the heavy side (especially if you carry any fluids in the tanks). If you think you may be loading the 308RETS up toward it's GVWR, then I would look at a Reese Straight Line trunnion bar so you can get something rated higher than 1,200lbs.

Ideally, to cover for a worst case loaded weight scenario, size the WDH size rating at 13% to 15% of the 308RETS GVWR of 9,750lbs (1,276lbs to 1,462lbs). A 1,200lb rated WDH will work just fine, but one must watch the loaded tongue weight.

Maybe some other 308RETS owners will chime in with their thoughts on the recommended WDH size rating.

Here is a good reference for the Reese HP Dual Cam set-up: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/17730894.cfm

Also confirm that your TV's receiver is rated for the potential loaded weights of the 308RETS in the WD mode.

Hope this helps

Bob

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Weight Distribution Hitches are rated for a weight range. Some people have reported having problems with the snap up brackets bending when the tongue weight was near the upper end of the weight range. Going up in size usually took care of the problem. I would say picking a size hitch that puts your tongue weight roughly midway in the hitch's weight range would probably work best.

[Merlin]

Typically I don't travel with water in the tanks but if I do then I keep it to a minimum, maybe 10-15 gallons just to get through a weekend of camping, the waste tanks get emptied after every trip.

I will be watching what gets loaded in this trailer for weight reasons but generally there is only light stuff like chairs and the BBQ that goes under the bed up front.

I verified my hitch prior to ordering the trailer, the gvwr is slightly under the max weight for WD as well as the hitch weight.

[usmc616]

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

Weight Distribution Hitches are rated for a weight range. Some people have reported having problems with the snap up brackets bending when the tongue weight was near the upper end of the weight range. Going up in size usually took care of the problem. I would say picking a size hitch that puts your tongue weight roughly midway in the hitch's weight range would probably work best.

My snap up brackets bent several times. Reese sent me a set-up where you bolt a plate on the TT frame and so far they have not bent. Also if you call Reese and tell them your snap up brackets bent they will send a new heavy duty set to you for free.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

Weight Distribution Hitches are rated for a weight range. Some people have reported having problems with the snap up brackets bending when the tongue weight was near the upper end of the weight range. Going up in size usually took care of the problem. I would say picking a size hitch that puts your tongue weight roughly midway in the hitch's weight range would probably work best.

Jeannie,

I may be misinterpreting your post..., but IMO the common element with most snap-up bracket issues is the influence of a heavy TT tongue (north side of 1,000lbs), not necessarily a tongue weight that happened to be in the upper weight range of a particular weight rated WDH model (ie; 600lb, 800lb, 1,000lb rated WDH, etc.).

So in reading your statement "Going up in size usually took care of the problem", I'm a little confused on how going to the next weight rated WDH model (ie; 600lb WDH to a 800lb WDH, or 1,200lb WDH to a 1,400lb WDH, etc.) could address a bending snap-up bracket issue.

Just curious .

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Merlin,

Thanks for the follow-up. Sounds like you have a good handle on the effects of loaded weights..., and great that your TV's receiver will handle the 308RETS, because it's amazing how many folks overlook their receiver rating when upgrading to the heavier TT's.

Bob

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Jeannie,

I may be misinterpreting your post..., but IMO the common element with most snap-up bracket issues is the influence of a heavy TT tongue (north side of 1,000lbs), not necessarily a tongue weight that happened to be in the upper weight range of a particular weight rated WDH model (ie; 600lb, 800lb, 1,000lb rated WDH, etc.).

So in reading your statement "Going up in size usually took care of the problem", I'm a little confused on how going to the next weight rated WDH model (ie; 600lb WDH to a 800lb WDH, or 1,200lb WDH to a 1,400lb WDH, etc.) could address a bending snap-up bracket issue.

Just curious .

Bob

Heavier rated hitches are built beefier.

[TexasA&M]

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

Heavier rated hitches are built beefier.

Not necessarily. For Reese, the trunion head and shank are the same, regardless of what size bars you are running. Once you get up to the 1,500lb setup, they include the heavier duty snap up brackets.

If you step up to 1,700lb version, you need a 2.5" receiver because the shank is 2.5" (I would assume that the trunion head is different as well to fit on the bigger shank).

This is assuming you buy the whole set up new.

[mikefos]

I am putting an Equal-i-zer 1400/14K hitch system on my 308RETS due to arrive in a few weeks. Dry tongue weight is around 990# and it wouldn't take much to get over 1200# I don't think.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by mikefos

snip...... Dry tongue weight is around 990# and it wouldn't take much to get over 1200# I don't think.

I agree.

[308rets]

Originally Posted by mikefos

I am putting an Equal-i-zer 1400/14K hitch system on my 308RETS due to arrive in a few weeks. Dry tongue weight is around 990# and it wouldn't take much to get over 1200# I don't think.

Mikefos, Let me know how this Equal-i-zer works out for you. I just got an email from them recommending the same one for our 308 RETS! I originally was thinking of the 12,000/1,200 but they talked me out of it.. Good Luck!

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Originally Posted by TexasA&M

Not necessarily. For Reese, the trunion head and shank are the same, regardless of what size bars you are running. Once you get up to the 1,500lb setup, they include the heavier duty snap up brackets.

If you step up to 1,700lb version, you need a 2.5" receiver because the shank is 2.5" (I would assume that the trunion head is different as well to fit on the bigger shank).

This is assuming you buy the whole set up new.

The brackets are what I am referring to.

[Rustic Eagle]

Just a couple of JOF snap-up bracket threads for future reference:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...bracket&page=3

http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...nap-up+bracket

Bob

[Wyotraveler]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Merlin,

When using the Reese "HP" Dual Cam with the taller TT A-frames, IMO round bars work best with TT's that have the ball coupler welded on top of the A-frame, and trunnion bars work best with the ball couplers welded to the bottom of the A-frame......, especially with the first "HP" model (the latest "HP" version is a tad more forgiving).

Both spring bar styles will work with either ball coupler locations, but I have found the above rule of thumb can reduce some minor adjustment/clearance issues on some TT's.

The Reese Straight Line in the round bar max's at a 1,200lb rating, which IMO may be a little lite if your loading habits are on the heavy side (especially if you carry any fluids in the tanks). If you think you may be loading the 308RETS up toward it's GVWR, then I would look at a Reese Straight Line trunnion bar so you can get something rated higher than 1,200lbs.

Ideally, to cover for a worst case loaded weight scenario, size the WDH size rating at 13% to 15% of the 308RETS GVWR of 9,750lbs (1,276lbs to 1,462lbs). A 1,200lb rated WDH will work just fine, but one must watch the loaded tongue weight.

Maybe some other 308RETS owners will chime in with their thoughts on the recommended WDH size rating.

Here is a good reference for the Reese HP Dual Cam set-up: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/17730894.cfm

Also confirm that your TV's receiver is rated for the potential loaded weights of the 308RETS in the WD mode.

Hope this helps

Bob

Best explanation I have heard. Before I bought my trunion spring bars I tried to get info from e-trailer and Reese. After a million (seemed like) questions they only said both will work. Thanks for the info.

[mach8274]

Originally Posted by TexasA&M

If you step up to 1,700lb version, you need a 2.5" receiver because the shank is 2.5" (I would assume that the trunion head is different as well to fit on the bigger shank).

The trunnion head is the same size...when I bought my new truck, it has a 2.5" receiver, I bought the Reese 2.5" shank and the head bolts right up...I have the Straight Line 1200# hitch.