Weight distribution hitch or not?

[RogerR]

Andersen hitches have built in sway control built in the hitch itself. No extra anti-sway bar or item needed.

I have driven with conventional WDH with no sway and with the Andersen.

Love that no-sway feature when big trucks pass plus the steadier feel from some weight returned to the front axel.

[kneeslider]

Buy one, you'll be happy you did!

[ch.rungood]

I have purchased the hitch already. I will be using a Pro Series WDH with 550 lb TW.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Rendrag]

Weight distributing hitches were developed and promoted back in the day when we towed with softly sprung sedans and station wagons. Are you using Grandpa's 1958 Buick to tow with? Modern pickups are another story. They have their limitations and ratings and I am not advocating anything unsafe in that regard. Review your owner's manual for better advice than twenty of us Internet folks can provide.

[TWP723]

Regardless of weights, always use a WDH. It's not just how much weight, but more like how to best distribute the weight you're working with. You very well could tow without one, but why would you? You've spent some money on your setup, now protect it...and your family. The vehicle tracks better with a WDH. It steers better and feels better going into turns, like off and on ramps. Overall control of the rig is enhanced and just feels stable. It distributes the entire rig weight over its length. And that's what you want for a better and more enjoyable tow experience. Nobody wants to white-knuckle their way to the CG. As far as sway control, I'd use sway control on any trailer I tow. EVERY trailer, regardless of weight, will sway with speed. It's inevitable.


Good luck!

[Rendrag]

It still amazes me how well the hitch industry has sold their product. Ask any Hotshotter what WD hitch he used in delivering your travel trailer. "None" will be the answer. I have towed every kind of construction equipment on trailers from two wheeled models with a thousand pound rating up to backhoes and such on a twelve ton "Beaver Tail" trailer which used a pintle hook. Never even thought about a WD hitch. The fact is that if it makes you feel better, you will feel better using a WD hitch whether you "need" one or not. They have their place and I get that but universally saying "Don't tow without one" is not always required. Go to the scales. Read your manuals. Apply the information, just like you would for any other device. Or, ask a bunch of folks on the Internet who may or may not have experience with your particular setup.

[NCMFFD]

Originally Posted by Marcm157

Another vote here for. WDH. I won't tow my trailer without one...

Another vote for WDH here too.

[mike837go]

I know I am late to this thread, but I used to run a near-identical setup:

2009 Toyota Tacoma Crew Cab Long Bed pulling a JayFlight 19RD.

The trip home from the dealer with just a ball hitch was a nightmare!

Once I set up the WDH, we could pull the TT fully loaded for dry camping (55 gallons of water) with full control of the rig.

My experiance: Use a WDH. Always.

We upgraded to an F350 last year. Still use the WDH.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

I have towed every kind of construction equipment on trailers from two wheeled models with a thousand pound rating up to backhoes and such on a twelve ton "Beaver Tail" trailer which used a pintle hook. Never even thought about a WD hitch. The fact is that if it makes you feel better, you will feel better using a WD hitch whether you "need" one or not. They have their place and I get that but universally saying "Don't tow without one" is not always required. Go to the scales. Read your manuals. Apply the information, just like you would for any other device. Or, ask a bunch of folks on the Internet who may or may not have experience with your particular setup.

You are comparing apples to oranges. The types of trailers you towed that didn't need a WDH didn't need it 1) because they are better balanced at the wheels to begin with, not tongue heavy like a travel trailer (it's also why European travel trailers don't need WDH) 2) You towed those with trucks that had far heavier duty suspensions than a Tacoma.

I have had plenty of experience with this type of setup. A WDH is needed for even my full size half ton with a 600# tongue weight. Just enough weight comes off the front end to make for an unpleasant towing experience.

The proof is in the pudding regardless of what anyone says. If the OP is already experiencing a "light front end" when a truck is passing, a 30+ mph crosswind will be down right scary without a WDH.

Been there, done that. As said above in several posts, it's all about putting the weight back on the front wheels to restore steering control.

[Rendrag]

Originally Posted by DocBrown

As said above in several posts, it's all about putting the weight back on the front wheels to restore steering control.

That is simply not true. Check out the "requirements" for weight distributing hitches on late model GM pickups. Zero on their 2500HD models and not much on their 1500 series. What people "think" is a light front axle is almost always an overloaded rear suspension and or tires which allows the vehicle to exhibit, "Rear steer". It feels like a light front end as you chase the tow vehicle down the road.

Unlike the "Experts" on here, I know that there is a time and place for everything. My neighbor's Tacoma that was dragging the rear bumper with a small travel trailer needed a WD hitch, overload springs, and anything else that would help get the bumper off the ground. My 2500 HD, according to the owner's manual and based on year's of towing needed none.

I suppose it does little harm in suggesting a WD hitch for everone. Many need one, many don't.

[Rendrag]

Originally Posted by DocBrown

As said above in several posts, it's all about putting the weight back on the front wheels to restore steering control.

That is simply not true. Check out the "requirements" for weight distributing hitches on late model GM pickups. Zero on their 2500HD models and not much on their 1500 series. What people "think" is a light front axle is almost always an overloaded rear suspension and or tires which allows the vehicle to exhibit, "Rear steer". It feels like a light front end as you chase the tow vehicle down the road. Many people don't know the difference.

Unlike the "Experts" on here, I know that there is a time and place for everything. My neighbor's Tacoma that was dragging the rear bumper with a small travel trailer needed a WD hitch, overload springs, and anything else that would help get the bumper off the ground. My 2500 HD, according to the owner's manual and based on year's of towing needed none.

I suppose it does little harm in suggesting a WD hitch for everone. Many need one, many don't.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

That is simply not true. Check out the "requirements" for weight distributing hitches on late model GM pickups. Zero on their 2500HD models and not much on their 1500 series. What people "think" is a light front axle is almost always an overloaded rear suspension and or tires which allows the vehicle to exhibit, "Rear steer". It feels like a light front end as you chase the tow vehicle down the road.

Actually it is true.

Read the rest of what the manual says. The requirements also say to refer to the trailer manufacturer and state the following: When using a weight-distributing hitch, measure distance (2) before coupling the trailer to the hitch ball. Measure the height again after the trailer is coupled and adjust the spring bars so the distance (2) is as close as possible to halfway between the two measurements.

If it doesn't rise much than it's likely a WDH isn't needed.

Older GM truck manuals (like mine) state to bring the front end back as close as possible to the stock height. And believe me, from experience I can tell you that a 1/2 rise in the front end with a 600# tongue weight is not a good thing with a 30 mph cross wind.

In both case they are telling us that putting a lot of weight on the back end takes it off the front end. Less weight on the front is less tire touching the road. Logically that affects steering control.

[Rendrag]

Originally Posted by DocBrown

If it doesn't rise much than it's likely a WDH isn't needed.

.

What page or section contains that statement? The manual does say how to set up a WD hitch if the owner chooses to install one, not that one is required. Big difference. The fact is that if you "think" you need something, then you "need" something. You really believe that GM is willing to take the risk of not requiring something that will not cost them one penny? The point is, there are tow vehicles like Grandpa's '58 Roadmaster and the OP's Tacoma that benefit from any and all help with their rear suspension.

I would rather read the current thinking on a subject than old thinking. Ford now recommends returning one half the front axle weight loss when setting up a WD hitch. GM's current 2500HD's zero required.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

What page or section contains that statement? The manual does say how to set up a WD hitch if the owner chooses to install one, not that one is required. Big difference. The fact is that if you "think" you need something, then you "need" something. You really believe that GM is willing to take the risk of not requiring something that will not cost them one penny? The point is, there are tow vehicles like Grandpa's '58 Roadmaster and the OP's Tacoma that benefit from any and all help with their rear suspension.

I would rather read the current thinking on a subject than old thinking. Ford now recommends returning one half the front axle weight loss when setting up a WD hitch. GM's current 2500HD's zero required.

Pages 313-314 of the 2018 GMC manual which covers 1500-3500 series trucks. No where does it say that you can forego a WDH with any of their trucks. Nor does it say it's required. What it does say is
A weight-distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers. Use the
following guidelines to determine if a weight-distributing hitch should
be used.


They leave it up to the owner to determine if it's needed thereby absolving themselves of any liability.

My statement about the rise in the front end is based on expert documentation (current thinking) which is found abundantly on the Internet as well as nearly 25 years of towing various camping units with everything from mini-vans to half trucks and SUVs. Like I said, been there, done that.

If I owned a 2500 most likely I wouldn't need a WDH with my current trailer. 600# of tongue isn't going to raise the front end of a 2500 hardly at all.

I don't think we disagree on this as much as you seem to think. But I stand by the importance of keeping weight on the front tires as much as possible.

[Rendrag]

From the Silverado Owner's manual regarding requirements for WD hitches:

Weight Distributing Hitch
Usage Hitch Distribution
1500 Up to 7000 lbs Optional
1500 7001 to 9900 lbs Required 50%
1500 Over 9900 lbs Required 100%
2500/3500 Up to 18000 lbs Optional

In other words, Optional, Optional, Optional. Nowhere does it warn that losing a few hundred pounds of front axle weight is detrimental to good handling or dangerous in any way. That is what reading between the lines says. I read the manuals and purchase more than adequate tow vehicles.

i also know that facts, figures, and logical arguments are not going to change most people's opinions.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

I have no idea why anyone would want to tow a TT without a WDH?

[Rendrag]

I love the freedom from grease, bars, and noise associated with something that is not "required" to make a great tow. I like backing under the trailer hitch, dropping the coupler onto the ball, and pulling out of the campground while some other guy is still looking for his pry bar. If you don't tow often, none of this will mean a thing to you. I am not saying weight distributing hitches are not required with many setups. But not mine. If people want to tow a full sized trailer with a half sized tow vehicle, a WD is more than necessary. I used to think they were mandatory until I did the research. GM knows a thing or two about tow vehicles and what is "Required" for a good and safe tow as well as what is "optional". They show no fear of losing a few hundred pounds off of a front end heavy tow vehicle. If you think you need one you need one, and I will never tell you otherwise.

[01tundra]

I run one on my 2500HD simply because of the anti-sway function that I get out of it being an Anderson 'No-Sway" WDH.

As far as needing it to distribute the 480 lbs of tongue weight - not required at all. My truck doesn't drop enough to even physically see it when lowering the TT onto the ball.

I figured since I already owned it prior to getting the TV and the fact that it is very quick and simple to install, why not run it.

I have considered ditching it just to have one less thing to do while hooking up, but the anti-sway portion is worth the extra 25 seconds it takes to slip a pin through a hole in my opinion.

[Rendrag]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

I run one on my 2500HD simply because of the anti-sway function that I get out of it being an Anderson 'No-Sway" WDH. .

I really like the Andersen hitch and you have the perfect application for it. Smooths out the ride, helps control "bucking" on rough roads. Clean, light, and quiet. The best part is that nobody is trying to sell you one or tell you that you are not safe if you choose to leave it at home.

[northwindone]

This subject has been pretty well discussed in this thread, but I thought I would go ahead and throw my two cent in anyway.

My first TT was a 19' 1977 Layton. With the fresh water tank under the front gaucho full, the tongue was a bit heavy, but nothing near the capacity of my 350. I figured since I had a one ton truck with the camper package (rear sway bar and helper springs) I could definitely do without a WDH. All the tongue weight really did was level out the 2" rake that a F-350 normally has. It was fine for the two years I had it. Towed just fine, though the ride left something to be desired as far as bucking and bouncing sometimes. It was never a concern though and just a slight annoyance once in a while.

I sold that TT and got my current 29BHS and other than towing it home (only 10 miles) I have always used WDH. I spent the time to set it up properly. My truck still sags 2" in the back, but that's just enough to once again level out the rake and make my truck sit level (and prevent the miniscule .25" rise in the front). But I will tell you that the ride with my 29BHS is much better than the ride ever was with that old Layton! And that's even though the Layton had half the tongue weight.

I now wish I had towed the Layton with WDH even if I didn't need it with my truck. Even if I were to downsize now to a 20' trailer, I would still want a WDH setup just for the ride quality. So even if you don't technically need a WDH, I would highly recommend it now simply for the ride quality.