What to do?

[homer1959]

Wireman...do not make the mistake of thinking that its better on the higher end model ! You 'll find a lots of junk there too :-)....... and like you im tired to read excuses not even coming from the manufacturers but instead from the customers.defending those big corporations...its al backward......the one doing that are probably not working real hard for their money........firesuit on lol...... have a great day and an happy camping season !

[homer1959]

Ive during the many years that ive spent on this planet learned that i am too poor to buy cheap stuff.....

i really dont think that a basic trailer equipped with styrofoam wall, 200 feet of piping, 2 miles of wiring 10 sheet of 5/8 plywood 10 sheet of luan worth 30 k !

We pay real good money for our trailer, higher end model are no better, just more expensive finding excuse for them is not helping us , instead we should put pressure again and again to get more for less instead of condoning the industry to give up less for more.....

Originally Posted by rkresge

And another thing, again not a big deal. For other 23RLSW owners, plus similar models that have a sliding door between bath and bedroom, watch out for the snap/strap that holds the door in place for travel. On our second trip out, mine ripped out of the screw that holds it to the door frame. Easy fix: I just removed the screw and put a flat washer under it to provide a better grip on the strap. Should solve the problem.

I know there's some validity to quality control complaints, but as far as I'm concerned the alternative is substantially higher cost that I don't think the industry can sustain. Friend of mine used to say this: "Good, fast, cheap. Pick two!" That kind of says it all about the RV industry in general.

Roger

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by homer1959

Ive during the many years that ive spent on this planet learned that i am too poor to buy cheap stuff.....

i really dont think that a basic trailer equipped with styrofoam wall, 200 feet of piping, 2 miles of wiring 10 sheet of 5/8 plywood 10 sheet of luan worth 30 k !

We pay real good money for our trailer, higher end model are no better, just more expensive finding excuse for them is not helping us , instead we should put pressure again and again to get more for less instead of condoning the industry to give up less for more.....

Let's try to calm down here, and stick to the issues at hand, rather than ranting about the RV industry. We all know there are QC issues, but I'd rather stay with correcting the (mostly) minor stuff that shows up once in a while. IMHO some of these things are almost inevitable in units that get taken out on the road and bounced around the way they do. Some things are gonna shake loose!

Thanks

[FLASHY35]

rhresge, thanks for the heads up. I have the same trailer and will be watching for the issues that you have pointed out. If I find this happening, I will let my dealer/serviceman repair it.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by FLASHY35

rhresge, thanks for the heads up. I have the same trailer and will be watching for the issues that you have pointed out. If I find this happening, I will let my dealer/serviceman repair it.

Cool!

I hope you're enjoying yours as much as we are enjoying ours. Getting ready to head for Maine with it next week. Can't wait!

FYI, I also just put protective covers over the Awning and Slide-Out switches. Last week while camping DW started to retract the awning by accident - oops, the very loose tie-down straps were still attached. I've been worried since day one that a grandchild, etc., would accidentally hit the slide-out switch and perhaps damage the mechanism.

Roger

[TxTwoSome]

Originally Posted by rkresge

Cool!

I hope you're enjoying yours as much as we are enjoying ours. Getting ready to head for Maine with it next week. Can't wait!

FYI, I also just put protective covers over the Awning and Slide-Out switches. Last week while camping DW started to retract the awning by accident - oops, the very loose tie-down straps were still attached. I've been worried since day one that a grandchild, etc., would accidentally hit the slide-out switch and perhaps damage the mechanism.

Roger

Roger do you have a picture of the covers you used I am interested in doing that to mine also.

Thanks

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by TxTwoSome

Roger do you have a picture of the covers you used I am interested in doing that to mine also.

Thanks

I just knew someone would ask for that.

No pix yet. Frankly these were not a real good fit - the switches protrude a little too much so the cover doesn't close completely, but they do the job and only cost $3.49 at my local Home Depot.

I'll try to take a shot later today and post it.

[Wireman]

rkrsege, Sorry about hi jacking your post about your issue with the trim. As I stated, I'm in the camping corner all the way and have been RV'ing for the last 30 years.


Your issue will be easily fixed. Enjoy your upcoming trip.

FYI, I'm installing my new loveseat/recliner this weekend. Will post pics when it's done.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by Wireman

rkrsege, Sorry about hi jacking your post about your issue with the trim. As I stated, I'm in the camping corner all the way and have been RV'ing for the last 30 years.


Your issue will be easily fixed. Enjoy your upcoming trip.

FYI, I'm installing my new loveseat/recliner this weekend. Will post pics when it's done.

Steve,

Don't think you hijacked it - you added to it with good info. I'm sorry about your door problem.

DW hints that she'd like a loveseat/recliner to replace the jackknife sofa, so Ill be interested in seeing your pix of that mod!

Roger

[TxTwoSome]

Originally Posted by rkresge

Steve,


DW hints that she'd like a loveseat/recliner to replace the jackknife sofa, so Ill be interested in seeing your pix of that mod!

Roger

Steve

Another one who wants pictures of the Loveseat/recliner. The model name number and your help to install.

[Wireman]

I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done. If you look under the existing couch, you'll see the storage box for the power cord. I took out the couch and box last weekend, which took about 15 minutes.


I had to remove the plywood box and install the 30 amp conversion kit (Marinco)so the new couch will fit.


The metal J box was mounted to the floor, so I moved it up on the back wall for more floor clearance.


I put all the existing 12 volt wiring(mainly taillights), CATV coax, and even the 10 gauge romex into wire loom just for a neater appearance, even though no one will see it and clamped it to the rear wall.


All this wiring is pretty much loose behind the couch.


Also before the couch goes in, I'm installing a hard wired surge protector in line with the power cord and attaching it to the rear wall. It has a remote readout to monitor voltage and current draw that I will mount in the storage area above the water pump & water heater.


I'll give more info & pics next week after I'm finished. 1 thing to be aware of in this floor plan is access to the 3 pull out drawers will be limited because of the depth of my sofa/recliner.


I bought a recliner with the least amount of depth I could find but by my measurements, there is no way around it, and it will partially block the drawers from opening all the way.


But comfortable seating is the #1 priority and sacrifices in other area's come with the territory.


Looking forward to getting this done

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by Wireman

I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done. If you look under the existing couch, you'll see the storage box for the power cord. I took out the couch and box last weekend, which took about 15 minutes.

Looking forward to seeing your project. DW may be happy if I just get her a nice ottoman to stretch her legs out on. (May have to get one for myself, too.)

[Jim-n-Ash]

We have a different trailer, but had the same problem. We took it to the dealer, and they installed a new strip. They said the problem in our case was that it's hotter here in Tucson than where it was manufactured, so it got out here and shrank. Fair enough. No problem since.

[rkresge]

Promised I'd post pix of the protective switch covers I just put on my awning and slide-out controls. Note in the shot with the wires that I had to disconnect the wires in order to mount the plate; if you do this, be VERY careful not to lose any wires in the wall!!! (Paranoid I am.)

[TxTwoSome]

Originally Posted by rkresge

Promised I'd post pix of the protective switch covers I just put on my awning and slide-out controls. Note in the shot with the wires that I had to disconnect the wires in order to mount the plate; if you do this, be VERY careful not to lose any wires in the wall!!! (Paranoid I am.)

Roger

Thanks for the pics!

[FLASHY35]

rkresge, I like your covers. Where did you purchase them? What type of covers are they? I saw that you took your controls off of the wall. Was that a necessity or an exploratory move? Could you just have used pop rivets instead of the screws? You made them look good, as well as doing a job needed.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by FLASHY35

rkresge, I like your covers. Where did you purchase them? What type of covers are they? I saw that you took your controls off of the wall. Was that a necessity or an exploratory move? Could you just have used pop rivets instead of the screws? You made them look good, as well as doing a job needed.

Got 'em at Home Depot, they're Bell MX1050Z. Price is $3.49 each. Frankly they're not as deep as I would like, so the cover does not quite close all the way. Also, the slide-out switch is a little too close to the sensor panel, so the tab hits the sensor panel. I didn't feel like the extra work involved in moving the whole setup a quarter of an inch up, so I just left it as is.

Other covers may provide a better fit, but these suited me. You'd have to take measurements of your switches and see what's available.

The switches would not fit through the covers no matter what I did, so taking the switches off the wall *and* disconnecting the wires was absolutely necessary. I guess you could use pop rivets if you wanted to, but the existing switches are mounted with screws so I just went with that.

Roger

[Silverado04]

I'll be watching for the gap at the trim. We bought ours in August and just noticed in April the front Diamond plate was buckled and detached at the bottom. It's booked in to get repaired in Sept when there's no rush. The trim looks to be ok at this time. I added a support on the under side to keep the plate in place until it goes in to get repaired or replaced.

[Country_Mouse]

Originally Posted by Wireman

rkresge, my trailer is in storage so when I get it this weekend I'll check that area to see if I have the same issue.


I don't know how your dealer service is, but here in SoCal it takes 3 + weeks to even get a unit in for any kind of warranty work.


I would fix it on my own since you have a trip planned, but take photos to show the dealer and have them replace the trim later.


My 23RLSW is only 2 months old, but you want see crap work take a look at these pics of the door lock dead bolt. I have a warranty claim now with Jayco to make them replace the door and door frame. No excuse for this kind of work.

I don't want to get started on quality again, we'll just leave it at that.Attachment 24558

Attachment 24559

Attachment 24560

Not sure who your dealer is but I'm in SoCal too and both times we've had it in for repairs so far we were in and out in a week or less. That's with a prior appointment. Not just dropping in unannounced.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[Wireman]

Country Mouse, Richardson's in Menifee. I took it in for them to look at the door lock issue and they told me once it's decided on what to do, and parts are in, it could be 2-3 weeks before it would be done.

It's the busiest time of year, that's what I was told anyway. Depends on service bay space, how long other units sit waiting for parts, etc, etc.