Wheel Chocks

[cheetahflip]

The BAL X-chocks retract down to 1 3/8" and expand up to 10". BAL Deluxe tire locking chock only retracts down to 2 1/2" and expands up to 10". It's new slimmer design fits into more axle applications, same sturdy design and material, lighter weight and tighter retraction makes it easier to store, lockable like deluxe model, comes with the same ratchet as deluxe model, rust inhibitive coating, operates the same as deluxe model, pretty much same price point if not cheaper than the deluxe model. X-chock starts off where Deluxe locking chock left off it's just new and improved. Also I need the thinner application for my Jay Feather 23k 14" tires and rims. Maybe they should have named it the X-chock Deluxe Plus. So why not

[drfife]

From the disclaimer on the X Chocks, I can't see them in my future.

[cheetahflip]

Honestly, I don't care either way, I don't work for BAL or get money from BAL I'm just posting info. as an FYI. And if you re-read my posts that disclaimer and all information is not just for BAL X-chocks but "ALL" BAL chocks, Deluxe Locking Tire Chock Model 28005 included. It's what they have posted on their website for BAL chocks not X-chock specifically. I have read many threads and reviews across the internet that people use BAL chocks in the manner you stated for many years also but I posted the information according to BAL for the recommended usage of their chocks as a general FYI since it now comes as an add-in slip of paper in the packaging. So again I picked the BAL X-chock over the Deluxe because same functionality, same recommended usage, same instructions, just that they retract to a smaller size to fit my tandem axle tire gap. And the debate goes on, over and over about Rotochocks...not that much more expensive...but you do have to order new plates if you switch TT w/diff tire spacing. But hey, to each his own, go with what you know and makes ya happy. Camp on brother!

[drfife]

My bad, I thought your post was instructions for only the X Chocks.

Obviously I did not read the BAL memo when I started using the Deluxe Wheel Chocks 12 years ago!

They have served me well and I'll continue to abuse them against BAL's recommendations.

Happy camping.

[cheetahflip]

That's hilarious! Happy Camping to you too.

[norty1]

I never owned a set, but have seen them flying out from a neighbors rig who forgot to remove it before pulling out. They can be lethel if you are standing there.

[cheetahflip]

I can imagine. Would probably bust up my plastic wheel wells something fierce. I read on another site a guy said he hooked up while using them to chock his trailer and they "squirted" out as he put it. He didn't elaborate as to what the damages were but said that he threw the BAL chocks away and bought Rotochocks. I would imagine they would have a similar effect if you try to drive off w/them installed. Could be why BAL recommends removing and using "wedge" style chocks before hitching. Too many people forgetting them after hooking up and the rest is not pretty.

[Crabman]

Oddly enough, I own one of each, an X chock and a Deluxe chock. They are both good products and will both do a fine job but being anal one day I weighed all the items that stay in my trailer. The Deluxe chock weighs 7.5 lbs and the X chock weighs 5 lbs., so there is a bit more beef in the Deluxe. I also got the disclaimer, but I think it was not so comprehensive then. I do remember it saying you still needed to chock the wheels in addition to the BAL chocks which I felt somewhat defeated the purpose of the item. But I take that disclaimer with a grain of salt.

[cheetahflip]

Funny. I've been weighing everything I've been loading into my TT. Since it's an ultralight I have 1,148lb of cargo weight available so just wanted to see what weighs what ,and what I want vs what I need but so far I have all I want with plenty weight to spare.

[Wanderer]

Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by Wanderer

Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?

I do the 'x-type' chocks, left and right side, before running out the side. I do that primarily because the slide hinders access to the left side tires.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Wanderer

Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?

The first thing I do after side to side leveling is chock the wheels with wedges and X chocks so the trailer cannot move after unhitching. So my way is to chock before extending slide. Cannot really see where the slide would be a factor one way or the other except it may be in the way more of getting to your wheels if extended.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Wanderer

Additional silly question regarding when to install. After leveling side/side - front to back and stab jacks down, should I install the X Chock before or after extending my slide, would it matter?

I love the revival of old threads!!

I tend to put mine in before I run the slide out (at least on that side) but after I've leveled and dropped my stab jacks.

1) Level side-to-side with blocks under tires
2) Chock tires using wedge chocks
3) Unhook from truck
4) Level front to back
5) Drop stab jacks
6) Insert X-chocks
7) Run out slide

In that exact order, every time.

My slide comes out right over the axles, so if I wait until after I run out the slide, I have to crawl under there to install the X-chock, and that's no fun. Especially on rough asphalt or rocky dirt.

[Wanderer]

Thank you everyone for quick detailed replies. I had my maiden voyage over Christmas and need to make some set up changes due to slide causing tilting. Never used the X-Chocks while there with so much going on and I had a lot of trailer movement while inside. Learning curve with all the new toys, hoping for a more "stable" experience next time.

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by Wanderer

snip... Never used the X-Chocks while there with so much going on and I had a lot of trailer movement while inside. Learning curve with all the new toys, hoping for a more "stable" experience next time.

'X-type' chocks (I have the plastic Camco brand because they are cheaper) will help stabilize the trailer front to rear movement. They took out more movement than I expected.

We set the front and rear stabilizers before running out the slide and then re-tighten the stabilizers AFTER running out the slide; I snug up the slide side first. Invariably the non-slide side stabilizers are loose due to the slide weight on the opposite side. Often I go back and snug up the stabilizers the next day, too.

People and situations differ. DW and I with our 2 dogs are OK with the bounce. There are stabilizer products available to tame trailer movement, but other than mounting it on concrete blocks, IMHO there will always be some movement.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

'X-type' chocks (I have the plastic Camco brand because they are cheaper) will help stabilize the trailer front to rear movement. They took out more movement than I expected.

We set the front and rear stabilizers before running out the slide and then re-tighten the stabilizers AFTER running out the slide; I snug up the slide side first. Invariably the non-slide side stabilizers are loose due to the slide weight on the opposite side. Often I go back and snug up the stabilizers the next day, too.

People and situations differ. DW and I with our 2 dogs are OK with the bounce. There are stabilizer products available to tame trailer movement, but other than mounting it on concrete blocks, IMHO there will always be some movement.

+1

I use the electric stabs that came on my trailer, x-chocks between the tires, and stack jacks under the frame near the axles (I just started putting them BEHIND the axles, instead of in front, and it seems to work a bit better). I put all of this down/on/in before I run the slide, and I always have to go back and snug the non-slide side stack jack (and I'll snug the electric stabs a little too). The slide pulls the trailer just enough to pull the frame off the stack jack on the opposite side. Next day I go back and snug again, but usually the stack jacks are still okay for the entire trip after I set them up this way.

All that, and there's still some wiggle. If I'm staying more than 2 nights, I'll put my other pair of stack jacks out, but I haven't gotten to go out for more than 2 nights since I got them!

My end goal is to replace the stack jacks with some scissor jacks because the stack jacks are finicky and difficult to use IMO. More difficult that putting my cordless drill on a regular scissor jack and zipping them down in about 5 seconds from a standing position instead of fiddling around on my knees!

[Wanderer]

Great information, am taking all your suggestions with me next time. I just looked at stack/bottle jacks today and am considering adding to my leveling supplies. (will try the X-Chocks first since I already own them) Over the 5 nights of camping the movement increased quite a bit with a lot of squeaking under front of trailer outside. I did check/adjust stab jacks as needed w/out being too aggressive.

By end of trip the lean increased enough for bathroom door able to close easily on own. (will be running up on boards or Anderson leveler next time on driver side in hopes of countering once slide is out and compensate for soft ground under gravel) Was parked on gravel over dirt.

I was distracted by losing 1/4+ of my fresh water during travel, leak under kitchen sink, the inability to fire my water heater on electric (via Honda generator) and a seeping black tank valve.

[micron]

i have just one set of solid wedge chocks. I place one at the front of the front tire and the other at the rear of the rear tire (dual axle trlr) before unhitching. Both on the driver's side. I've never had any issue. Am I just tempting fate or is this acceptable albeit minimal use of chocks? If I need to use leveling blocks on dvr side I would put the chocks ob the pass side.

[SmokerBill]

It depends on the slope I'm on. If it's fairly level, I'll put one in front of the back tire, and one behind the front tire on one side. Then I'll put a section of board between the two chocks to lock them in place.

If the site is sloped, I'll chock the downhill facing tires, both sides of the trailer.

Lots of times, I'll just find an appropriately sized and shaped rocks to use as a chocks, although I do have a pair of the orange plastic ones. The reason for the rocks is that many times I have to run the tires onto 2x10s to level the TT, and the orange plastic chocks just won't work.

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by micron

i have just one set of solid wedge chocks. I place one at the front of the front tire and the other at the rear of the rear tire (dual axle trlr) before unhitching. Both on the driver's side. I've never had any issue. Am I just tempting fate or is this acceptable albeit minimal use of chocks? If I need to use leveling blocks on dvr side I would put the chocks ob the pass side.

Of the two alternatives you offer, my money is on that you're tempting fate.

With chocks just on one side, if your trailer starts rolling, it will pivot. With chocks securely installed on both sides, it shouldn't roll or pivot. At a minimum, I suggest two more wedge chocks.

I'd also suggest a pair of 'X-type' chocks, either bought or home made. I've had the wedge type slip on the leveling blocks and that created more excitement than I ever wanted. I also like the fact that, as a bonus, the 'x-type' also take out some fore-and-aft trailer movement the wedge chocks don't.

Go and sin no more.