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Old 11-23-2015, 07:30 AM   #21
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It is important to note that some air compressors use a light oil protect the air pump. Use of those compressors to blow out your lines could leave oil residue in your lines.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:49 AM   #22
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Ecksdude, your BHBE should have the winterizing bypass hose under the sink in the kitchen which will not require putting any anti-freeze in the freshwater tank. Basically, turn valves for hotwater bypass under rear bunk, stick the hose from under sink in antifreeze bottle, open valve under sink, turn on pump and then open each cold valves one at a time until pink comes out starting with sink, then bathroom sink, shower, toilet, outdoor shower and then start with outdoor shower hot and reverse order for all hot taps until pink comes out then dump a cup in each p-trap drain and you are done.

IMHO the pink anti-freeze is more idiot proof than just air. While air works fine as long you are very careful and get all the air out, if there was a cup or so of water left after blowing out the lines and after you finish the remaining water was to accumulate in low section of your water lines you could have problems. The same cup of water mixed with the antifreeze would be very unlikely to cause any problems at the normal -20C to -30 celsius temperatures we normally experience even if that slight dilution lowered the effectiveness of the anti-freeze to a higher temperature than the -50 degrees Celsius rating on the jug.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:15 AM   #23
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Pink or Air??? Its your choice!! Just remember the things that cause problems with the air method, cause same issues with using the"stuff". Miss a faucet or forget the outside shower and bingo.

This is not hard to do. Just pick your method and go slow and don't get sidetracked.

An advantage with air is that I can dewinterize on a trip south and then winterize again in a rest area on I65 on the way home. Or do the same several time on a trip with warm and cold stops. No pink to carry or replace and no need to super flush the system.
I agree 100%. And I might go further by saying that if you live in an area with mild winters, where you get some freezing nights and never see temps in the single digits or below zero, then the air method is probably the best way to go.

But be cautioned once again, if you don't get all water out of the system, bad things can happen. Someone mentioned earlier about the PEX tubing (used for water lines) is tough stuff and won't break easily. While that's true, it is NOT true for the plastic valves and the pump, which is of the most concern to me. If there is ANY water left in your low point drains, in the pump, or in faucets, the expansion from freezing water can easily break things. And leaks will occur the next season - and/or the pump will be non-operational.

I winterize with anti-freeze because it displaces water. And because I use the pump to suck it out of the jug, the pump head is filled with pink stuff, as well. I just winterized last week, with the forecast calling for temps in the upper teens for last weekend. Sunday morning I woke up to 6 degrees! And I am confident that next spring, after flushing my system, everything will be fine.

But again, if I lived in areas with mild winters, I would go with the air method. Everyone has to make that judgement call and do what makes them feel safe. Lots of opinions here - but it is as simple as that!
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:22 AM   #24
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IMHO the pink anti-freeze is more idiot proof than just air. While air works fine as long you are very careful and get all the air out, if there was a cup or so of water left after blowing out the lines and after you finish the remaining water was to accumulate in low section of your water lines you could have problems. The same cup of water mixed with the antifreeze would be very unlikely to cause any problems at the normal -20C to -30 celsius temperatures we normally experience even if that slight dilution lowered the effectiveness of the anti-freeze to a higher temperature than the -50 degrees Celsius rating on the jug.
Exactly! And that is why I open all faucets after finishing my winterizing with anti-freeze. IF there is any water left that dilutes the anti-freeze, the open faucets will safely allow for expansion due to ice crystals forming in the lines. Just an extra safety precaution that takes no time and can't hurt anything!
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:09 AM   #25
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We get ~30 nights in the 20s, I don't recall a day time high below freezing. I use compressed air only and then I do put some pink anyifreeze in the drain traps and toilet bowl. No issues in 5 winters.

Don't for get you black tank rinser, it requires air since the water pump doesn't circulate that bit of hose.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:25 AM   #26
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Air then pink in the entire FW system, P-traps and all three tanks. Every single autumn.

Springtime, flush tanks and lines. Sanitize.


Add a bit of bleach to the FW tank on every refill. Good for the May-Sept activities.

Carry separate drinking water from the well at home. Just because it tastes familiar.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:40 AM   #27
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Air then pink in the entire FW system, P-traps and all three tanks. Every single autumn.

Springtime, flush tanks and lines. Sanitize.


Add a bit of bleach to the FW tank on every refill. Good for the May-Sept activities.

Carry separate drinking water from the well at home. Just because it tastes familiar.
Good advice!
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:00 AM   #28
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Good advice!
The real rarity is that I follow my own advice.

Most sensible folk tend to ignore anything I have to say.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:40 PM   #29
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Well, for now I'm doing air, as we have a trip planned for mid-December and will be using the water during that time unless the weather is actually below freezing.

I did put a cup of anti-freeze in the drains, but missed a few, so I'll have to go back tonight and do that to the other drains. For some reason I was thinking grey-tank and black-tank rather than the U-pipes under each drain which will have water in them.

I will go ahead and do the full anti-freeze method after we return from the December trip, just to be safe.

Thanks all for your replies.
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Old 11-25-2015, 03:11 PM   #30
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Search - blow out plug - Camping World


I bought this plug, this was my first time winterizing as a new camper owner. I blew everything out after emptying the water heater. Turn on the faucets and it blows out nicely. You may need someone to hold open the toilet valve while you air it out. I blew it out extra long until no sign of water was present.


I then put anti freeze in the s traps of everything and in the grey and black tanks.


Lastly, an AC cover, an electric tounde hitch copver, tire covers and a propane tank cover. I removed the battery, put it in my garage and hooked up to a battery tender.


All of my prep for my first winterization came from this forum, so don't be afraid to ask anything.


Good Luck!
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:21 PM   #31
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Blow, and keep all valves open when done and dont forget the outside shower. U should be good
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:33 PM   #32
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LOL!

Well, I didn't realize there was such a thing as a "blow out plug", so I created my own out of a cheap hose, and a few fittings.

It cost about 10X more than the one I see listed at Camping World, but the fittings are brass instead of plastic and should last many years.

Oh well, live and learn!
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Old 11-25-2015, 11:08 PM   #33
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For what it's worth, here's my rig. Water hose fitting x QD, plus the blow down rig. Even though I set the compressor to 40, I like to know what's at the inlet. So, valve and gauge. Never have used the pink stuff. BUT, our scenario is a little different. During the winter months, I'll blow the lines out before leaving for offshore where my wife doesn't have to fool with it. But, the rig is also indoors in a big shop, small thermostat controlled heater is inside the camper set pretty low, all cabinet doors open to allow air circulation etc. Overkill maybe, but too easy not to do. Won't go into everything else we do, but there's a LOT more in the winter months.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:33 AM   #34
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Yes, my hot water tank didn't have a drain fixture either...just a plastic pipe plug. I bought a barb fitting to replace the pipe plug, and installed a piece of clear hose on it. It's long enough that I can drain the tank without flooding the compartment! To plug the hose when not draining the tank, I installed a fitting on the outer end of it which is the same female size as the "city-fill" fitting on the back of the trailer. I have a male fitting of that size with a Schrader air valve on it for blowing out the water system during winterizing. It now doubles as a plug for the hot water tank drain hose!
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:03 AM   #35
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The problem with compressed air is it doesn't flush the water pump. At the very least you need to run a small about of antifreeze through the pump. Many RV's have a dedicated suction line at the pump to draw antifreeze directly from the jug. Mine does not so I have to pour it in the fresh tank. I'm also a bottom dweller in Western WA. It's been 16-19 degrees every morning this week.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:19 PM   #36
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I live in North Dallas, TX and just winterized our 2016 with small 12 volt air compressor and poured RV pink in all drains and toilet. Always worked good here. Mostly mild winters but we do get below freezing nights 2 or 3 times during winter and occasional 4 inch snow events. Hopefully be in Florida all February we hope. Noticed on our Whitehawk when I open low point drains it drained Hot water Tank too? I removed the plastic drain cap on hot water tank anyways when blowing out the system and no water came out..
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