2017 jay sport 12ud electric lifter question.

[JSCinci2005]

I just picked up a jay sport 12ud with a electric roof lift on it and the only way I can raise the roof is when it is hooked to shore power. I thought it can be lifted under 12v power as well. Am I missing something?

[Grumpy]

Is there a switch to go from battery to converter?

[JSCinci2005]

I'm not sure if there is. Do you think the trailer has to be switched from 12v to shore power and vise Versa for the lifter?

[eng45ine]

Our 1007 UD will lift using only the 12v battery, it does rise faster when using shore power though. Will it rise on 12v power when you push the button just inside the door of the camper?

[JSCinci2005]

On this trailer the button Is outside of the trailer on the winch housing

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by JSCinci2005

I just picked up a jay sport 12ud with a electric roof lift on it and the only way I can raise the roof is when it is hooked to shore power. I thought it can be lifted under 12v power as well. Am I missing something?

Have you checked your battery voltage? If you just picked it up, it's possible the battery is discharged and hasn't been plugged in to shore power long enough to charge.

Use a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage when shore power is disconnected and with shore power connected (should be 13.6-13.9volts).

[JSCinci2005]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

Have you checked your battery voltage? If you just picked it up, it's possible the battery is discharged and hasn't been plugged in to shore power long enough to charge.

Use a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage when shore power is disconnected and with shore power connected (should be 13.6-13.9volts).

I checked it and it's fully charged so I don't think it's a voltage issue.

[FeatherFam]

Originally Posted by JSCinci2005

I just picked up a jay sport 12ud with a electric roof lift on it and the only way I can raise the roof is when it is hooked to shore power. I thought it can be lifted under 12v power as well. Am I missing something?

Here's what I can offer you as a former owner of a PUP with an electric lift motor. They can be very fussy. I had this exact problem on a Coleman/Fleetwood design using a Barker motor. To get it to work properly off of the battery and shore, over a two year period I did the following:

1. Purchased a true single purpose deep cycle battery, not a dual purpose.
2. Went through all of the grounds, cleaned and tightened.
3. Added a ground to the current limiter, near the lift motor.
4. Added a ground from the negative battery post to the frame.
5. Inspected and tightened as needed all of the writing going up the roof posts into the roof.
6. Replaced the GFCI that tripped every time roof motor was engaged, either on battery or shore.

On our unit, the grounds and the true single purpose deep cycle helped a good bit, but we would intermittently have failure. After replacing the GFCI, it would still trip; GFCI's are very sensitive, and these motors churn out inconsistent current, many surge quite high.

Keep working it. I would start with the grounds and strong battery. You should consider a true single purpose deep cycle. The dealers are typically clueless about these issues, and you can save yourself a lot of trouble by educating yourself and being resourceful. They will tell you all you need is a GP24 dual purpose (regular) battery. But those motors work best off of a single purpose deep cycle; personally, I would use a GP 27. The GP 24 is sufficient, but make sure it is a single purpose - Trojan makes an excellent product. You will spend some money on a legit battery, but you will not regret the purchase. Also check to see if the GFCI is tripping when you activate the motor. You may also want to look on the PopUp Portal. There are a ton of awesome folks and threads on that site. I still find it to be a super "neighborhood" for camping folks and their vehicles. Keep us posted!

[JSCinci2005]

Well I have the battery out and in a charger it's pretty cold and wet here right now so I've not played with it to much. But I looked and there are only three wires running to the battery and all three were bolted right and tight. Hopefully it's just a low battery. Luckily the dealer will hopefully take care of it if it's something major.

[JSCinci2005]

Alright so I took the camper into the dealer today.. it turned out to be a bad fuse in the converter and a bad cell in the new battery. So that's fixed but in the process of testing it out the roof gets stuck all the way up and I found a one inch slice in one of the bunk tents so it's staying at the dealer until they fix everything and give me the trailer I paid for! So frustrating.

[FeatherFam]

Originally Posted by JSCinci2005

Alright so I took the camper into the dealer today.. it turned out to be a bad fuse in the converter and a bad cell in the new battery. So that's fixed but in the process of testing it out the roof gets stuck all the way up and I found a one inch slice in one of the bunk tents so it's staying at the dealer until they fix everything and give me the trailer I paid for! So frustrating.

End of round one, round two has begun - The fuse can happen, but on ours, the fuses were popping due to poor wiring connections and poor grounding. See how it goes. If the trouble resumes, you know that you will need to go through the wiring and grounds yourself. It did not take us long, in our RV ownership, to determine that the dealer is the last alternative on our list, especially with wiring (same as automobiles, maybe worse). You may have an extra wonderful (knowledgeable, experienced, and honest) tech; I have heard that they exist. The work is not difficult; it is tedious and time consuming which is why most dealers do not do a good job for you.

I know all about wanting it handled "under warranty." Try to get what you can out of them while you have the warranty. But have your eyes wide open about the reality that most dealers and service operations will not do the job half as well (if at all) as you will do. Plus, when you do the work yourself, you learn about your camper and gain valuable skills and knowledge that will serve you many times over. We celebrate when our warranties expire, when we become free to get the job done right and well ourselves and not lose tons of time and experience the frustration and disappointment that the dealers and manufacturers provide. It does not get much more frustrating than jumping through all of the dealer and warranty hoops only to find that the work was not done, was done poorly, and/or their "fix" created more problems.

Also, let us know how the tent repair goes. I have a lot of experience with that as well. They may need to replace it for you. We hope this trip is all you need. Keep us posted. Lots of us on this forum will be glad to help you!

[JSCinci2005]

Thanks for the info I'm usually one to do everything myself as well but only having the camper for 2 weeks I figure it shouldn't have any problems I'm hoping as soon as the canvas is replaced and the roof motor is fixed everything will be ok and I can get to enjoying it.

[JSCinci2005]

So turns out the switch was the culprit it was sticking and shorting out and is being replaced also they are going to replace all of the tenting on the camper because of the whole in the front bunk which I'm a little hesitant about but it will all be new and nothing will be patched. Here's to hoping 5 to 6 weeks goes by quickly so I can get my camper back to brand new instead of dealing with a bunch of issues.

[FeatherFam]

Glad to know that you got it working. If trouble brews again, check the items that I mentioned. Been there, seen it, and fixed it. Now it is time to camp and enjoy! Congratulations on your new toy!